Figures [79] and [80] illustrate how this may be accomplished by using a lace-trimmed shade between them and the glass, while sash curtains of almost any kind are equally effective for outside appearance.
Where the shutters are so constructed that they open into the room, as Figure [79], the curtain pole must be projected forward from the frame a sufficient distance to allow the shutter to swing clear of the curtain without interfering, and if the curtain is looped or caught up with a rosette at the side, the point where it is tied must be projected forward in a similar manner.
These blinds, so far as their manufacture and installation are concerned, rest perhaps more with the carpenter than with the decorator, and will, therefore, interest him little except as to their after treatment.
The rolling shade, made of painted cotton or glazed linen, as illustrated in Figure [79], is perhaps most commonly known of all expedients for seclusion and sun protection, and the ease with which these shades can be made to order in any size is so well known that nearly every upholstery shop is equipped with a cutting table and the necessary material for their manufacture.
The table illustrated in Figure [81] will be found to possess a combination of many good points in cutting tables for this purpose, although one less elaborately planned and constructed may serve for a small shade-order business. The top is made of clear white wood, and is six feet wide by twelve feet long. At one end is a half round, trough-like receptacle, the bottom of it composed of two-inch rollers with pin heads (see Figure [81A] for detail); these rest in iron brackets, and revolve when necessary with the action of rolling or unrolling shade cloth.
A flat steel plate about one inch wide and a quarter of an inch thick (or slightly thinner if more convenient) is fastened to one edge of the table to form a solid straight-cutting edge. It should be all in one piece and free from any irregularities, and a similar plate is fastened to the end on which the bracket is attached. Saw-cuts about one-eighth of an inch deep run across the table, perfectly true and at right angles to the side of the table, dividing it into feet from end to end. At the bracket end, and included in the first twelve inches, a six-inch strip of hardwood is let into the top, flush with the rest, and has saw-cuts (as illustrated in Figure [81A]) one-half inch, two and a half inches, three inches, three and a half, four and four and a half inches from the outside edges of the steel plate.
These are scoring lines for marking the hems, and should be half an inch deep and about one-eighth inch wide. The cuts marked one to eleven are filled in smoothly with dark putty, and are for measuring purposes, while cuts A to F are cut with a fine-tooth saw and left as cut. In addition to the lines every twelve inches it is necessary to have the inches between these spaces.
Fig 79
