Cutting and draping

by John W. Stephenson

If insertion is used without lace, as Figure [87], the top edge of the insertion is placed between the cut open edges of the hem, as above described for lace, and a separate hem (A—A, Figure [87]) scored, folded and sewn on, as illustrated. If both lace and insertion are to be applied the bottom of the separate hem (A, Figure [87]) is split and the lace inserted and sewn in, as above.

This separate hem is made the same width as the ordinary hem for shades, but need not have the little turn in indicated by arrow in Figure [84].

When cutting lace or insertion measure it so that the pattern will balance nicely, and if both lace and insertion are used be careful to have the pattern of the insertion in line with the lace. After these trimmings have been cut the size of the shades, the cut ends are bound by sewing them between the edges of a piece of the same cloth as the shades, say half an inch wide, folded in the middle, and for convenience a number of the ends can be stitched into the same piece of binding, as illustrated in Figure [88], and afterwards separated by cutting the binding.

Motif patterns, as Figure [90], are applied to the shade by a double row of stitching, about one-quarter of an inch apart, all around the outside edge of the motif, after which the cloth is carefully cut away from the back, just below the stitches and following the outline. Should the pattern prove too large to work beneath the arm of the sewing machine, pin it carefully in place on the shade and sew it on by hand, passing the needle down and back as neatly as possible. This is a tedious job, and should only be resorted to when no other way seems possible. Applique lace edges, as Figure [91], are sewn on in the same manner, and the cloth cut away from the scallops behind.

The shade illustrated in Figure [80] is a combination of the bonne femme and motif shade, and is constructed like the foregoing Figure [91], having in addition a frill eight or ten inches deep, composed of étamine, madras, mull, muslin or net, and trimmed with a lace. This is applied to the scalloped edge of the motif, and has usually an allowance of as much again for fullness (two feet of unshirred frilling to one foot of space), or if very fine a little more.

When applying the shirred frill to the scallops, have the greatest fullness between the points B and C (Figure [80A]), and decrease the fullness from B to A, for as the material follows the curve up into the angle at point A, it will be found that the bottom edge of the frill becomes more full according to the elevation of point A above point C.

Lace motif and scalloped bottom shades may be made with a hem and slat, as illustrated in Figure [80], or the slat may be dispensed with and the shade operated by a cord which passes through a screw eye at A (Figure [90]), and winds around the roller, which is left long enough for the purpose. The cord is wound around the roller the same number of times as the shade and attached by a fair-sized tack. The roller need not be provided with a spool unless the shade is extra long, as the screw eye at A will guide the winding and confine it to a small space. Figure [90] shows the cord and ball pull attached to the left end of the roller; but the tack which fastens the cord would be likely to penetrate to the spring on that side, and it would be best to attach it to the right end of the roller.

The shade is operated by pulling the cord, and works the same as with the tassel in the regular way, as Figure [92].