Cutting and draping

by John W. Stephenson

This pulley may be an ordinary pulley and the cord attached to a small cleat at the side of the frame to hold the shade the required distance, or an eccentric stop-pulley may be used, which binds the cord at the will of the operator, the latter being the more convenient method.

Round-top shades are provided with extra slats at various distances, as illustrated by Figure [95], which prevent the edges of the shade from flapping as they might unless so supported. These slats are perfectly flat, made of clear wood about one-eighth of an inch thick and one inch wide, or larger, according to the strength required, and, being flat, they readily roll up with the shade.

The slat used in the bottom of shades is usually made wedge shape, as Figure [92], and possesses more strength than the perfectly flat slat.

As we have already stated, roller shades are usually made of painted cloth or glazed holland, and while for years they have been, with few exceptions, plain and undecorated as to the fabric itself, we are pleased to note recent efforts on the part of manufacturers to produce something more distinctive and artistic, shade holland now being produced in delightful damask effects in a variety of weaves and colors, while the painted goods are also being made to order in beautiful hand-decorated patterns of artistic merit.

The Austrian shade illustrated by Figures [96] and [96A] is a very pretty and effective method of diffusing and softening the glare of the sun without excluding the light.

They may be made of a great variety of fabrics, including challie, casement cloth, plain and brocaded silk, silk or wool damask, madras, net, or other soft material of sufficient strength and fast color to withstand the sun, and are a very effective combination of shade and sash curtain. They are simple of construction, but must be accurately and neatly made to insure satisfaction.

Having secured the size of the window and determined the space the shade is to cover, the goods are joined up to the required size, allowing a third of the space (four inches to the foot) each way extra for fullness, with about three inches allowed in addition for double hem at the top and also for a single hem on each side. Calculate so that the seams will come on one of the shirrings each time when joining for the width, as they will not show there and are very unsightly anywhere else.

The material, when ready, is spread flat on the table, as Figure [97], and the width divided into the requisite number of panels and marked in straight lines for shirring. Turn the double hem at the top for the rod, and a single hem on each side of one or one and a-half inches. Baste these hems and sew them. Then spread the material on the table again, as illustrated, and with a stout thread gather each shirring line into the required length, fasten each end of the thread to the table with tacks as you gather them, and when all gathered go over each one and adjust the fullness until it is nicely distributed the length of the curtain. Leave the lower one-third of the curtain slightly less full than the upper two-thirds, for when in place it is generally left fastened about half way up the window, and if this is done, the lower end, which is all pleated on the strings, does not look so much more full than the upper portion, which is hanging as shirred.

Cut strips of paper one inch wide and as long as the shirring-thread and pin them along each shirring, the pins sufficiently close to hold the fullness in place. When all pinned in place, the tacks are drawn and the curtain turned paper side down and run through the machine (the paper is used to prevent the machine feed from disturbing the fullness), using the thread as the line for stitching. The paper is then torn away and the shirrings run through the machine a second time for safety if very stretchy material is used.

Spread it out on the table once more, face side down, and on the back of the shirrings baste a quarter-inch baby ribbon or tape to match the goods, and stitch this also. Sew small brass rings to these tapes, as illustrated in Figure [96], about six inches apart, along the full length of each tape or ribbon. Shirr the double hem at the top to the required length and stitch a tape to it also, to keep the panels equally divided, and trim the bottom with a fringe.