Now take a piece of paper about twice the size of your pattern paper and lay your perforated pattern over it. A glance at 107 B, showing the detailed drapery pattern, will show you how best to lay your pattern to use the paper you have to advantage.
Commence by marking A—B—G and H through your perforations as well as any perforations which may be included between these; shift No. 1 on the pattern over point B, as marked through your perforation, and point 7 over point H, and mark out the perforations from 1 to 2 and 7 to 8; shift C over mark 2 and I over mark 8, and mark from C to D and I to J; shift 9 over mark J and 3 over D; mark the perforations included between 3—4—9 and 10; shift E over mark 4 and K over 10, and mark E to F and K to L; shift 5 over F and 11 over L, and mark all the points of the tail pattern. When all complete the under paper should appear as the outline of 107 B. Fold the pattern by following the lines of this illustration, the plain parts all face the front and the shaded parts all face the back of the drapery. As this is rather an intricate piece of work we have given each move in detail, and would suggest that you make a full-size plan of the pattern here illustrated to familiarize the details.
Figure [108] illustrates a round-top window treatment made like the foregoing, or either of these effects may be obtained by making scalloped flat valances as explained in the chapter on that subject.
The round-top flat valances may also be used in conjunction with a festoon drapery by providing apertures in the valance through which the drapery is passed, as left side of Figure [109].
Fig. 112
To plan aperture pelmets for any purpose we prefer to sketch out the full size of the pelmet on a blackboard and plan the points where the apertures will be. Then lightly sketch the outlines of the drapery on your board, as right side of Figure [109], and measure from your chalk lines direct as follows: Take a small plumb line and allow it to fall over the deepest part of the festoon, as illustrated; attach a tape at D, festoon A, and allow it to drop down to X and around up to C; note the measurement at X and record it, and also the distance from X to C, which, in the case of a regular or equal-sided festoon, is the same; measure from B to A in the same way, recording the distance on each side of the line and also the distance from the top of the festoon to the bottom of it, in line with the plumb line. Measure festoon B in the same way, recording the distance on each side of the plumb line, and also the depth.
These festoons are cut as explained in the chapters on French festoon drapery and irregular festoon drapery, but we give the diagrams here as an additional guide. (Note Figure [109A] and [109B].)
The drapery illustrated in Figure [110] illustrates an irregular festoon drapery, made to exactly fit the arch or opening. To plan this drapery use the blackboard and full-size sketch as for last figure. After the outline is sketched in and corrected to your satisfaction, flatten the tops of the festoon by ruling lines from each end of the bottom outline, as B to C dotted line, or from the outside extremity of one bottom outline to the outside extremity of the next festoon, as A to B and C to D dotted lines.
Drop a plumb line over the deepest part of each festoon and measure the outlines as explained for Figure [109], recording the measurements on the board; measure the distances of the straight dotted lines, tops of festoons on each side of the cord, and also on each side of the centre of the dotted line, recording the distances each way, and also the distances from the centre of the dotted lines to the outline of the arch.