[CRINUM.]—Most of the Crinums require the protection of a greenhouse or hothouse in our climate. The kinds mentioned below, however, may be grown in the open air in the milder parts of the country. The large and broad strap-shaped leaves, 2 to 4 feet long, more or less gracefully recurving from the long-necked bulbs, are in themselves a noble sight, but their beauty is considerably enhanced when the large, funnel-shaped blossoms are borne in clusters on the top of a stout, fleshy stalk. Given a rich and well-drained, loamy soil, warm-sheltered spots, and sufficient moisture during active growth, and the hardy Crinums usually flourish. They may be increased by offsets taken from the base of the large old bulbs; or by means of the large fleshy bulb-like seeds that are produced in favourable seasons. The seed needs only to be placed on the top of moist soil in a pot, and under the shelter of a greenhouse or cold frame will soon germinate in its own peculiar way. The best-known hardy Crinums are C. Moorei, a native of South Africa. It has large long-necked bulbs, broad bright-green leaves 2 to 3 feet long, and clusters of soft-pink flowers, each 6 inches or more across, on a scape 2 to 3 feet high (see [Plate 30], fig. 109). C. Powelli, with a reddish wash down the centre of the petals, and its pure white variety album ([Plate 32], fig. 115) are also two very fine plants for the out-door garden. They are really forms, or hybrids perhaps, of the South African S. longifolium (or C. capense), which has large white flowers with a central reddish stain on the outside of the petals. It is quite as hardy as the other kinds and may be treated in the same way.
[CROCOSMA] aurea.—This beautiful Iridaceous plant is perhaps better known as Tritonia aurea. It is a native of South Africa, and has fibrous-coated corms, narrow sword-shaped leaves, and brilliant orange-red starry blossoms borne on branched stems about 2 feet high, in August or September. It likes a rich sandy loam and leaf-soil and soon makes fine clumps in the milder parts of the kingdom. In cold districts and the north generally, the corms may be lifted in October or November, when the leaves have withered, and may be stored in sand or soil until spring. Then they may be replanted, any offsets from the older corms being placed in separate beds and grown on until large enough for flowering. As a pot plant for greenhouse decoration, the Crocosma is most useful. After potting in spring, the pots may be plunged (i.e., sunk up to the rims) in ashes or fibre, and plenty of water should be given during the summer months when the growth is active. When the flower-spikes appear the plants may be taken into the greenhouse or conservatory.
LILIUM CROCEUM (67) ALLIUM MOLY (68) SCILLA PERUVIANA ALBA (69)
[CROCUS.]—The popularity of the Crocus is undoubted, but popular favour generally confines itself to the white, blue, lilac, purple, yellow, and striped varieties of C. aureus, the Old Dutch yellow Crocus, and C. vernus. These all flower from February to April, and when planted in hundreds and thousands in the borders or grass-land they are then indeed a glorious sight, especially if naturalised with Snowdrops, Leucojums, and Bulbocodiums. The individual blossoms do not last long, but they are thrown up so profusely from the roundish corms beneath, that they give a continuous glow for several weeks in early spring. The above all flourish in light sandy loam and leaf-soil. To secure the best results the corms should be planted about 3 inches deep in September or October. When possible, as in grass-land for example, the plants should not be disturbed for a few seasons, so they may increase as Nature intended. In this way they will produce a more striking picture each succeeding year, especially if they have had the advantage of a top-dressing with well-decayed manure in autumn. When the corms have to be lifted each year to make way in the borders for summer-flowering plants, the best time to take them up is when the foliage has begun to wither. This process is often hastened by twisting the narrow leaves and tying them into little bundles.
Apart from the ordinary spring-flowering Crocuses, aureus and vernus (a selection of which can be obtained from any bulb catalogue), there are several natural species which also flower in spring, and may be planted and grown exactly in the same way. Amongst these the best known are alatavicus, white and yellow; Balansæ, orange-yellow; banaticus, bright purple and white; biflorus, white to pale lavender, known as the "Cloth of Silver Crocus," of which there are many beautiful forms; Biliotti, purple; carpetanus, lilac to white; chrysanthus, orange-yellow, with several varieties; dalmaticus, lilac and yellow; etruscus, purple and yellow, striped; Fleischeri, white and yellow, veined purple; Imperati, lilac-purple, with deeper stripes; Korolkowi, yellow; reticulatus or variegatus, white to deep lilac, veined purple; stellaris, orange; suaveolens, lilac and yellow, veined purple; Susianus or revolutus, deep orange, known as the "Cloth of Gold Crocus"; versicolor, purple to white, veined purple; and vitellinus, orange.
[Autumn-Flowering Crocuses.]—Colchicums, and especially C. autumnale, are popularly known as "Autumn Crocuses." They belong, however, to the Lily family, and must not be confused with those species of Crocus proper which belong to the Iris family, and also flower during the autumn months, sometimes even as late as December, when the blossoms are often spoiled by the weather, unless protected with handlights or frames. At this period they are very useful, with the Colchicums and Sternbergias, for the decoration of grassy slopes and banks, and may be intermingled with them in places where they can remain undisturbed for some years.
The chief difference in the cultivation of Spring and Autumn Crocuses, is that the corms of the latter should be planted in July, or not later than August—in fact, at the same time as the Colchicums. The following are among the best Autumn Crocuses:—Asturicus, violet, purple; Boryi, white and yellow; cancellatus, white to purple, and lilac; caspius, white tinted rose; Clusi, pale purple and white; hadriaticus, white and purple; iridiflorus or byzantinus, purple, lilac; Karduchorum, lilac, veined with purple; longiflorus, lilac, yellow, sweet-scented; medius, purple, veined, see [Plate 33], fig. 117; ochroleucus, creamy-white, orange, see [Plate 33], fig. 121; pulchellus, lavender-blue and yellow, veined; Salzmanni, lilac to white, veined; sativus, lilac, veined purple; the well-known "Saffron Crocus" of commerce, with several varieties; Scharojani, orange-yellow; speciosus, lilac, purple, with deeper veins, see [Plate 33], fig. 122; and zonatus, rosy-lilac, veined purple.
All Crocuses may be easily increased by offsets, which may be detached when the corms are lifted. Seeds take about three years to produce flowering corms (see [p. 34]).