Combinations with out-door Hyacinths are sometimes made by covering the surface of the beds with such plants as Forget-me-Nots, Polyanthuses or Primroses, Silenes, White Arabis, Yellow Alyssum, and sometimes Narcissi bulbs are planted alternately with the Hyacinths, the object in all cases being to produce a fine effect and contrast in colours in spring. When the plants are in bloom they require but little attention, except perhaps a slender stick here and there to some flower-truss that has been blown down by the wind, or topples over with its own weight. As soon as the blossoms have withered, the flower stems should be cut away, leaving the still green leaves to assimilate food until they begin to turn yellow. The yellowing leaves indicate that the bulbs may be taken up, dried, and cleaned, and stored away in cool airy places until the following September or October. As Hyacinths, however, deteriorate in our fickle climate, it is better to buy new bulbs each year for planting formal beds, while the old ones may be planted in ordinary flower border or shrubbery.
EARLY-FLOWERING GLADIOLI (81-83)
[Hyacinths in Glasses,] &c.—Ornamental bowls, glasses, vases, &c., of various designs afford an easy and interesting means for growing Hyacinths in the dwelling house. Many fail to have good results with Hyacinths grown in these receptacles because they allow the bulbs to touch the water, or they place them in too high a temperature to begin with. The bulbs should not actually touch the water, the base being little more than 1/8-inch away from the surface. They should then be stood in a dark place with a temperature of about 40° to 45° F., until roots have developed into the water. The plants may then be exposed to more light, after which all that is necessary is to change the water occasionally, about once a week, so that the roots may secure a fresh supply of oxygen. The finest bulbs give the best results naturally when grown in this way. What are known as "Miniature Hyacinths" are suitable for growing in bowls, vases, &c., in moist moss and charcoal, or in Jadoo fibre, or even in coco-nut fibre. Indeed, Hyacinths generally may be grown more easily, perhaps, in this way, instead of in water, the only point to bear in mind being to get the roots started in a cool place before the flower-stem and leaves begin to grow.
[Hyacinths in Pots.]—For greenhouse and conservatory decoration Hyacinths are most useful. One large bulb or three smaller ones may be placed in a 5-inch pot in light sandy soil, the top of the bulbs being well above the surface. The pots should be placed in the open air and covered with fine ashes or coco-nut fibre. Roots soon develop, after which the bulbs may be brought in as required, and can be had in blossom long before those in the open ground begin to appear. In warm greenhouses the graceful Roman and Italian Hyacinths may be flowered in the same way.
For a selection of Hyacinths of various colours the reader will find it best to consult a good bulb catalogue or a nurseryman. [Plate 11] shows a few varieties, but the size of the page renders it impossible to show them in all their natural grandeur.
Besides the florist's Hyacinths there are one or two natural species that are worth growing in the rockery, flower border, or in the grass. These are the Spanish Hyacinth (H. amethystinus), with bright blue drooping blossoms, or white in the variety albus, in May and June (see [Plate 7], fig. 30). The other is H. azureus, which very much resembles one of the Muscaris, and sends up its sky-blue drooping flowers as early as February (see [Plate 2], fig. 10).
Hyacinths may be increased by offsets. These may be stored in dry sand until planting time in the autumn, when they should be placed in beds by themselves, and will reach the flowering stage, with care, in two or three seasons. Full-sized bulbs are induced to develop bulblets by cutting them cross-wise, about half-way through from the base, or scooping the bottom out into a hollow. The bulbs are placed to dry after cutting, and by and bye the bulblets appear. They may be detached and planted like the offsets.
[IRIS] (Flag).—As the various kinds of Irises, known as "rhizomatous," "bearded," "beardless," and "oncocyclus or cushion," have already been dealt with in "A Practical Guide to Garden Plants," and in the companion volume to this, "Beautiful Garden Flowers," it is only necessary here to refer to the "Bulbous" Irises, as coming appropriately within the scope of this work. The best-known examples of Bulbous, or Xiphion Irises, as they are sometimes called, are the Spanish Iris (I. Xiphium) and the English Iris (I. xiphioides). Varieties of the last-named are shown on Plate 14, while forms of the Spanish Iris will be found in "Beautiful Garden Flowers," Plate 20, and also in this work, Plate 15. Besides these well-known examples of Bulbous Irises, there are many others now well-known. They are, however, much smaller in stature as a rule, more fragile, so utterly distinct in appearance from the ordinary Flag Irises, and so curiously and beautifully coloured, that many amateurs liken them to orchids, although, perhaps, they can scarcely be termed "[Poor Men's]" Orchids like their commoner relatives. On Plate 3, five species of charming and early flowering Bulbous Irises are shown, and a glance will show that no description could do real justice to the charming beauty of the blossoms.