LILIUM MARTAGON ALBUM (95) WATSONIA ARDERNEI (96) LILIUM RUBELLUM (97) LILIUM COLCHICUM (98)
Daffodils—with the exception, perhaps, of a very few varieties—require as little attention, and even less than Snowdrops or Crocuses. Once planted they may be left undisturbed for years, and as each season comes round they gaily shoot their blue-green strap-shaped leaves and creamy or golden blossoms through the ground.
They grow in almost any soil, but prefer a rather stiff and well-drained loam. They are appropriate in any situation in the flower border or rockery. But their natural position is undoubtedly in the grass, or—
"Beside the lake, beneath the trees,
Fluttering and dancing in the breeze,"
As Wordsworth has it.
[When to Plant.]—The best time to plant Daffodil bulbs is from the end of August to November. As there is a great difference in the size of the bulbs, according to the variety, the depth of planting should vary accordingly. Thus bulbs 1 to 2 inches deep from top of neck to base should be planted quite 3 or 4 inches deep, while larger ones will be planted 4 to 6 inches deep in proportion, and about the same distance apart, except, of course, when they are used between other plants like Tulips, Wallflowers, Polyanthuses, &c., for a combination display in spring.
Most of the Daffodils are valuable for cutting and decorative purposes generally when in season, and when one has the convenience of a greenhouse—cold or otherwise—the flowering period can be extended from Christmas onwards.
Daffodils are most easily increased by the offsets from the old bulbs. These may be lifted in early summer, when the leaves have begun to turn yellow. Seeds may also be sown when ripe (see [page 36]), but to secure them the plants must be left much longer in the ground, so as to mature them.
Nearly all kinds of Daffodils—especially those having only one flower on a stem—may be grown in the open air. There are hundreds of varieties to choose from, but the uninitiated may start with such kinds as the beautiful white and flat-flowered "Poet's Narcissus" ([N. poeticus]), which is also called the "Pheasant's Eye" Narcissus, because of the crimson and orange circles round the rim of the flat saucer-like "corona" in the centre (see [Plate 7], fig. 29). There are several varieties of the Poet's Narcissus, one of the best for ordinary purposes being ornatus. Where the soil is particularly rich and well-drained the double-flowered variety, called the "Gardenia" Narcissus, owing to the shape of its beautiful white blossoms (see [Plate 7], fig. 28), may be grown. Unfortunately this variety often comes "blind," that is, the blossoms remain undeveloped in the papery sheath on top of the stem. To check this the bulbs are best lifted and transplanted early to fresh soil. Another popular and easily-grown Daffodil is the common Double Yellow one known as Telamonius plenus or Van Sion. It is a form of the Tenby Daffodil (N. obvallaris) which is a single form with beautiful yellow flowers, having a large "trumpet" or corona in the centre. Closely related to this is the Great Spanish Daffodil (N. major) which has large bright lemon-yellow flowers, which are still larger and of richer yellow in the variety maximus.