On returning to our room the landlady entered with a fine-looking girl, for whom she begged a book. This opened our way to speak to her of things connected with salvation. She said,--"We have not much of religion here." "Why so?" we asked. "Because the people do not like to confess to the priests." "And what is the use," said we, "of confessing to man?" "Because," she replied in somewhat trembling accents, "we think it eases our consciences, for the priests are the appointed ministers to take charge of our souls." "What," we replied, "a man take charge of immortal souls! God never committed the power to forgive sins to man: Jesus Christ alone can pardon sins; he died to save us!" I shall never forget the countenance of this dear woman, which seemed to express her long-shaken confidence in her spiritual guides. We exhorted her to come to the Saviour, who intercedes for us without the aid of man, and gave her a New Testament, which she said she would read.
12th.--Went to Maux to sleep. The landlady was communicative: she told us that some travellers like ourselves some time ago had given her a New Testament, which she had lent about the village, together with tracts, and that she wished for more. We inquired if there were any persons in the village who would like to come to us for books. She soon sent us an interesting young woman, a schoolmistress, to whom on her entrance we presented some tracts. She regarded them with an air of thoughtfulness which seemed to measure the quantity to be taken by the price she would have to pay for them. When she found they were to be had gratis, her countenance brightened, and with it the brightness of her mind showed itself. On speaking with her of the responsibility of her profession, and the importance of imbuing the minds of children with just principles, she said, "I am desirous of instructing the children in the religion of the heart. Religion," added she, "though a good thing, is badly put in practice in our church; the people do not like to confess to the priests, and there is a great desire for instruction and to receive books."
They saw again at the Inn at Maux the man who had opposed them at Lessengnan, and found him much better disposed than he had been the day before. He told them he had been a Romish priest, but being disgusted with the practices of his church, he had left it and joined the army: he promised to read the books they gave him.
Our present mode of travelling (with our own horse), they continue, though somewhat slow, affords opportunities of endeavoring to do a little good, which we should miss in travelling by Diligence or extra-post. It is curious and instructive to observe the various dispositions of the people in the dark places through, which we pass: sometimes they are so fanatical as to tear a tract before our face; others receive them with joy. During a half-hour's rest for our horse at a village near Castelnaudry, my M.Y. made the acquaintance of an aged woman at the door of her cottage, who really did us good. On inquiring if she could read, "It is my consolation," said she, "to read the Scriptures." "And we have great need of consolation," we answered. "Yes," said she, "I am a widow of near eighty years, and have had many cares; but I pray to God, and he grants me the consolation of his Holy Spirit, and if I confide in him he will never forsake me."
At Castelnaudry they left the main road and crossed the mountains to Saverdun, in order to visit the Orphan Institution in that place.
By not going first to Toulouse, remarks John Yeardley, we saved about thirty miles of travelling; but it was ill-spared, for one part of the road was so bad that it required a forespan of two oxen to drag the carriage through the deep mire and over the dangerous ditches. After a little dinner at a poor place in the mountains, we procured a mule as a reinforcement; for we stuck so fast in the mud that I never expected we should be able to extricate ourselves. My poor M.Y. had to walk a great part of the way; I am quite sure extra strength was given us for the emergency. We lodged at Mazères, where we called on the Protestant minister Bésière, a most open-hearted Christian. He knew some of our Society, and wherever this is the case it insures us a welcome. On our telling him the dangers we had encountered on the road, and that we had escaped unhurt, he sweetly said,--"The Angel of the Lord encampeth round about them that fear Him, and delivereth them."--Psal. xxxiv. 7.
On arriving at Saverdun, on the 17th, we immediately pursued the object of our visit, and proceeded to the Institution, where we delivered our letters of recommendation, and received a cordial reception from the director, Pastor Enjalbal. When the little porters opened the door, they cried one to another, "Voilà des Anglais!" The director seems to be wonderfully fitted for the post he fills. He was once a captain in the army. After his conversion, his heart was penetrated with gratitude to his Saviour for bringing him to a knowledge of the truth, and he desired to devote the remainder of his days in doing good to his fellow-creatures, particularly in the instruction of youth. The project of the Saverdun school was then in agitation, and a manager was wanted. The excellent Pastor Chabrand applied to him, knowing him to be the man for the office if he would only undertake it. When he visited him for this purpose on behalf of the committee, he found him in his chamber weeping, and, as his confidential friend, he asked him what was the matter. "Why," said he, "my heart overflows with love to the Saviour, for all that he has done for me, and I seem to live without doing anything for his cause in return." "Well," said the pastor, "but the way is now open for you; I am come with a proposal from the committee for you to accept the government of the Saverdun Institution; but I will not have an answer from you at present: weigh the matter for a fortnight, and I will come again and receive your decision." A sense of duty decided him to accept the offer.
The superintendent conducted us to the members of the committee, to whom we had brought a kind introduction from Pastor Frossard of Nismes. The supporters of this institution, are the most influential in the town, rich, and withal pious characters. The Mayor, their secretary, is very active: he with his wife, an excellent woman, and several members of the committee, met us in the evening at our inn; they appeared to be greatly interested in works of benevolence, and in everything connected with religion and education.
Toulouse, 3 mo. 20.--We arrived in this great and busy city on Seventh-day evening. Our first call was on the brothers Courtois, to whom we had letters of introduction from our Christian friends at Nismes. They received us in a most cordial manner and were very open and communicative.
On First-day morning, after our little meeting, we called on Professor F. Banner; he was rejoiced to see my M.Y., whom he knew at Congenies twenty years ago. He was then a Roman Catholic; indeed, in name he is not changed; but he is become very spiritually-minded, and much attached to Friends and our principles, believing them, as he said, to be the nearest in accordance of any with the doctrines of the New Testament. He has been, with his wife, several times to our hotel, and we feel sweet unity with his quiet exercised spirit. His situation here is important, having a boarding-school for the children of Protestants, with a few Roman Catholics, his piety and sincerity securing to him the confidence of both parties, which is matter of wonder in this day of religious conflict. He is one of those characters, more of whom we are desirous of finding; one who wishes rather to enlighten than to censure the dark prejudices of men.