Before we reached Cronstadt, to quote from J.Y.'s Diary, we encountered a strong gale, so that the officers from the guardship, who came to see that all was in order, had hard work to get on board. There were eighteen Russian sailors with oars, yet they could not draw the boat, and our steamer was obliged to throw ropes and haul her in. The sight of Cronstadt was formidable; for more than two miles in and near the harbor there was a line of ships of war. At Cronstadt we had to be put on board a smaller steamer, which caused us much detention. At the custom-house all passed off well; they were more civil and less strict in their examination than in England. The Russian sailors look very unbright; they are not active in managing a boat. They not unfrequently received a few strokes from the fist of the helmsman, or a rope's-end, either of which they took with that unconcerned composure which showed they were accustomed to it. We are located at the hotel of H. Spink, an intelligent Yorkshireman; his wife is very kind and attentive.
13th.--Spent this day at Peterhoff, with W.C. Gillibrand and wife, with two of their friends. It is the first opportunity we have had for serious conversation in this place, and I hope it was to mutual comfort. They took us a drive after dinner to see several of the Emperor's pavilions, mostly surrounded by beautiful pieces of water. There was an intelligent man present, who had spent some time in India, ---- Watson; he now has charge of the British school in Petersburg. We find the Scripture Lessons are no more in use in the school; nor is the New Testament in the Russian language allowed to be circulated in the country. The Bible Society is just alive, but can hardly breathe; other institutions languish for want of support; party spirit has crept in to their great injury. The law is still very stringent in not allowing a member of one religious body to join another; but the different sects are allowed their own worship and schools.
20th.--Left Petersburg by the train at 11 o'clock yesterday, and arrived at Moscow about nine this morning. The road, with but little exception, is flat and uninteresting. The forests are immense, mostly of firs and birch, which being thickly set grow small. Many of the stations are superb. The line of railway did not conduct us near any towns or villages that I could observe, but by some of the poorest scattered huts I ever saw in any country.
At Moscow, John Yeardley and his companion called on Pastor Dietrich, a German, residing a little out of the city:--
He is, says J.Y., in one of his letters, a worthy pastor of the Old Lutheran Church, a sweet venerable-looking man with long white locks. He was at dinner with his family when we called, but he would not allow us to go away, but took us up to the attic story to his study; primitive indeed, but clean, and to him I have no doubt a room of prayer, as well as of study. He seemed delighted to find our mission was to the Colonies. "But what will you do about the language?" said he; "they speak nothing but German." I wish the dear girls could have seen his countenance lighted up with cheerful brightness, when he found we could speak German: "Ah, I need not trouble you any longer with my poor English!" He knows a great many of the pastors, and will give us letters of introduction to the little flocks in the Colonies and the Crimea.
As might be expected, it was with a sinking heart that John Yeardley contemplated the formidable journey before him; but, as in other times of extremity, he cast himself wholly upon the Lord, and found his soul to be sustained, and his courage renewed to undergo the hardships that awaited him.
7 mo. 21.--Rose this morning much cast down in mind at the thought of our long journey, and a want of a knowledge of the Russian language. Poured my complaint in fervency of soul before the Lord, and was a little comforted in believing that he would still care for us and preserve us in this strange and long wilderness travel. It is his own cause in which I am engaged, and I am willing to endure any bodily fatigue if I may only be strengthened to do the works to which my blessed Master has called me. The Divine Finger seems pointing to the place where the people I am seeking are to be found.
I went after breakfast to the dear Pastor Dietrich. His heart was filled with love for me, and I felt the sweetness of his spirit to encourage me; preciously was the divine unction spread over us. He gave me some information of the religious state of things here. There seems to be about 800 of the evangelical party in Moscow, including the French and English Protestants, and the different classes of Lutherans; a small number out of 350,000 souls which the city contains; the rest are Roman Catholics and of the Greek church, mostly the latter. God knows the hearts of all.
22nd [?]. "In thee, O Lord, do I put my trust; let me never be ashamed: deliver me in thy righteousness. Bow down thine ear to me; deliver me speedily: be thou my strong rock, for a house of defence to save me."--(Ps. xxxi. 1, 2.) "Hear the right, O Lord, attend unto my cry; give ear unto my prayer, that goeth not out of feigned lips."---(Ps. xvii. 1.) The above sweet words were brought home to my heart with power this morning after a time of conflict in spirit. Lord, grant me faith and patience to the end of the race, when I shall have to say, Now, Lord, lettest thou thy servant depart in peace. Amen.
Providing themselves with food, and with small change of money for the journey--two things indispensable to Russian travel--John Yeardley and William Rasche left Moscow on the 23rd, by malle-poste for Orel. They stopped some hours at Toula: the land south of this town they found to be well-cultivated, and the harvest had begun; it consisted mostly of rye. The journey to Orel occupied forty-four hours. Among their fellow-travellers was a resident of Moscow, Charles Uyttenhoven, who spoke English, German, French and Russ, and who, like themselves, was going to Kharkov. He was a pleasant and gentlemanly companion, and was of great service to them in acting as spokesman on the road.