They left Constantinople on the 15th, and on the 17th went on shore at Smyrna, where, at the house of the American missionary Ladd, they met with another missionary, named Stacking, returning with his family from Persia, where he had labored sixteen years among the Nestorians. The account which he gave John Yeardley of the creed and condition of the Nestorian Church, and of the schools which had been opened in Persia, aroused his deep sympathy and produced an abiding impression on his mind.
Smyrna, like the other Turkish cities which they saw, vividly impressed the travellers with its Oriental character.
Like Constantinople, says J.Y., it is a town of all nations. The streets are narrow, with a run of dirty water down the middle. We met docile camels in great number, bringing figs from the interior. In the fig-market were thousands of boxes being prepared and packed for exportation. It is a sight of interest to see Turks, Greeks, &c., huddled together, walking, talking, or sitting cross-legged and smoking their long pipes. We took donkeys and ascended the hill, where we obtained a good view of the town, and then examined the ruins where the ancient city stood, and saw the place where the message from Heaven was received by the angel of the church of Smyrna. The church of Polycarp stood not far from that of John the Baptist. After a visit of peculiar interest, I returned to the steam-ship and read the message to the church of Smyrna, which gave rise to more reflections than I can here record.
Steaming on the sea of Marmora, (to continue J.Y.'s narrative of his homeward journey), the Bosphorus and the Greek waters, was very pleasing. We had a good sight of the walls of ancient Troas, where the apostle Paul received the message in vision from the man of Macedonia, to come over and help them. The quarantine prevented us from landing at Syra; but I conveyed a note through the English Consul to my old friend Hildner, who came alongside our steamer. I learned from him that Argyri Climi was five years in his school, and usefully filled the office of teacher of the higher classes; had been married about ten years to a lieutenant in the army; had three children, and was living happily with her husband at the Piraeus. It appears she retains her religious principles.
21st.--Arrived at Malta. Ours is the first steamer that has reached the island since the removal of the quarantine; we went on shore directly after breakfast. Isaac Lowndes was rejoiced to see me. We met in the street, and he conducted us to his house. He has been in Malta seven years, acting for the Bible Society; he gives no bright account of among the Greeks, as to spiritual religion, nor of the island generally. The present governor has admitted the Jesuits into the island, who are doing mischief; privileges are being granted to the Romanists to the prejudice of the Protestants; and a regulation has been proposed which would subject a Protestant to six months imprisonment for not taking off his hat when he meets the procession of the Host.
Isaac Lowndes took John Yeardley and William Rasche to visit Selim Aga, or, as he was named after baptism, Edward Williams; who with his wife, sister-in-law, and four children, formed an interesting Christian household. J.Y. published the history of this man in No. 13 of his series of tracts, Turkey and the Converted Turk, where also he has depicted several scenes from the latter part of this journey.
Arriving at Marseilles, they proceeded quickly on to Nismes. It was with a gush of natural sorrow that J.Y. revisited a place whore he had often sojourned with his beloved wife.
The thought, he writes, of the difference in my circumstances now and when last in this place fills me with sorrow. The beloved one of my bosom, then the stay and solace of my heart, is no more with me to help and comfort me in the toils of life. Yet when I consider what a large amount of suffering she has escaped, I cannot but rejoice that she is at rest with her God and Saviour, where I humbly hope soon to meet her. Lord, prepare thy unworthy worm for that awful but joyful day!
John Yeardley held a small public meeting at Nismes, and the next day, the 3rd of the Tenth Month, set out for the bathing-place of Bagnères de Bigorre, in the Pyrenees. His principal reason for going there was to recruit his shattered health. "On our arrival at Nismes," he says, "and during our few days' sojourn there, I began to feel the effects of my long, toilsome Russian journey; and, in the hope of preventing a return of my suffering complaint, I thought it justifiable to make trial of the sulphur baths and water of Bagnères." But he had also another object in view: "I had long thought," he adds, in a letter from Bigorre, "whether there was not a seeking people in this neighborhood, and now I think there is."
His first care on arriving at Bigorre, was to call on Pastor Frossard, formerly of Nismes, who feelingly reminded him of the changes which had happened to each of them since they had met before. He proposed to John Yeardley to meet some Christian friends at his chapel. This was just what J.Y. had been wishing for. The meeting was held; and after it was over he gave the company an account of his travels in Russia, with which they were highly gratified.