We had a long and tedious ride, through deep sand, to Leer. On our arrival we made inquiry about Fredericks-Oort, but could obtain no intelligence, nor could we find it on the maps which we borrowed for examination. This was very discouraging; for I had hoped, if it was right for us to go, we should find some one to give us certain directions to it. I slept but little, and next morning set again to work, and found there was a Jew in the town who travelled much in Holland. I desired he might be sent for; he came, and immediately gave us directions where to find the places we wanted.
I ought not to omit remarking the comfortable feeling that I was favored with, riding from Wittmund to Aurich [on the way to Leer]. In reflecting in stillness where we had been and what we had done, I felt not only peace and inward satisfaction, but thankfulness filled my heart that we had been thus far enabled to do what we believed to be in the way of our duty. This Scripture language passed through my mind: "Blessed are ye that sow beside all waters, that send forth thither the feet of the ox and the ass." (Isa. xxxii. 20.)
11th.--Left Leer about eleven o'clock in the morning, and expected to arrive at Assen at eleven or twelve at night, but to our great disappointment we travelled the night through, and only reached Assen at seven next morning. At Wehndam on our way we rested the horses. Our friend L.S. went for an hour to bed, and my M.Y. and self sat in the carriage and would have slept, but there came so many admirers of our vehicle that we could not sleep for their almost continual remarks about its elegance, convenience, &c.
This part of Holland is fruitful; the houses are clean and neat; and the dress of the women very singular. Their caps have a plate of silver or gold on each side almost like a helmet, and sometimes very costly. At the inn at Nieuweschans [on the borders of Germany and Holland], the cook had one of these golden helmets which had cost about 150 florins.
In these flat countries they have no spring water; the land lies so much below the sea that all is impregnated with salt. Rain water is used for drinking, and the method of preserving it is in a deep reservoir lined with boards and puddled with clay. I was surprised to find it kept good so long: it is seldom known to go bad. One of the farmers on the Grodens drew water out of his well and handed me a glass to drink; it had a yellowish tinge, but except this I never saw clearer and have seldom tasted pleasanter spring water, and the beat tea I ever drank was made from rain water so preserved. One thing which contributes to its quality is the great surface of tile which it has to run down, and which tends to filter it.
The mode of manuring the land is similar to that practised in Brabant, and the produce proves that it is excellent; for no better meadows, or corn land in a higher state of cultivation are to be seen than in some parts we have lately passed through.
The cows, when fresh in milk, are milked three times a day, by which means more milk is obtained than in the common method; any one wishing to make a fair experiment of this must try it not for two or three days only, but for a week or ten days.
John and Martha Yeardley found the institution at Fredericks-Oort of a deeply interesting kind. It was Established by private benevolence to improve the condition of the poor, and to relieve the country from beggars, and was commenced in 1818. The poor families which are placed there are employed, some in manufacture, some in cultivating the soil, and every means is made use of to encourage industry and provident habits. When our friends visited the colony, it comprised 2900 souls, including the staff by which the institution is worked, and which is necessarily numerous. They thought the method of instruction in use in the schools excellent, and found that religious liberty was strictly respected.
From Fredericks-Oort they went on to Ommershaus, where is the poor-house and penal colony belonging to the former institution. Thirteen hundred beggary, orphans, and criminals were then in the colony.
How much, remarks J.Y., such an institution is wanted in England; every inducement is held out for improvement in civil society, and a most effectual check placed against vice and idleness.