Our way now lay for some distance amidst enclosed and cultivated land, through green lanes bordered by shrubs covered with climbing plants. As the enclosures came to an end, and we again found ourselves in an open country dotted with trees, we observed the Argan gradually becoming more scarce, and the Zizyphus more frequent, until the last of the former were seen about ten miles east of the kasbah. Among the smaller shrubs Rhus pentaphylla was prominent. The genus Teucrium is especially characteristic of South Marocco, as may be inferred from the fact that four new species were found by M. Balansa, besides many of those common about the Mediterranean. We here met one of the peculiar Marocco species (T. collinum); and the ever varying T. Polium constantly recurred throughout our journey, from the coast up to over 4,000 feet above the sea.
After several brief halts, requisite for collecting new and rare plants by the way, we rested for half an hour in a shady spot near a well. Up to this point our course since morning had varied between due E. and SSE.; but for the remainder of this day’s journey our general direction was about ENE. The track slowly wound its way upwards amongst hills covered with Retam, till it reached the brow of a rounded eminence that overlooks a wide expanse of treeless plain extending eastward to the horizon, except where some low flat-topped hills were seen in the dim distance. We had now accomplished the first stage of our journey. We had traversed the zone of hilly country lying between the coast and the great plain of Marocco, on the verge of which we here stood. Leaving out of account a few prominences to be spoken of hereafter, the plain appears to the eye quite horizontal; but in fact there is a very perceptible inclination of about forty feet per mile from south to north, as it slopes from the foot of the Great Atlas towards the river Tensift, and a further slighter dip of about ten feet per mile from east to west, between the city of Marocco and Sheshaoua. The deficiency of water at once explains the great change in the vegetation, which was speedily perceptible in detail, but obvious to the eye from the first view of the country newly opened before us. Corresponding to this is a considerable change of climate, arising from the rapid heating of the surface by day, and the no less rapid cooling by radiation at night. We are already far from the equable climate of Mogador; and although the air in the shade is only pleasantly warm, we are happy to have the protection of pith helmets covered by turbans between our heads and the direct rays of the sun.
The verge of the great plain over which we rode this afternoon is far less barren than the portion which yet lay before us; and we found several species characteristic of similar situations in Spain and Africa, along with some others, hitherto undescribed, that appear to be characteristic of this part of Marocco. Thus Artemisia Herba alba became conspicuous, in some places almost covering the surface. Of the more noticeable herbaceous plants here seen were Matthiola parviflora, Gypsophila compressa, Ebenus pinnata (rather common throughout the low country), Onobrychis crista galli, an Elæoselinum, near to E. meoides, and numerous Compositæ, of which Cladanthus arabicus is one of the most conspicuous. We did not notice the fragrant odour which some travellers have found in the flowers of this species. To the same natural Order belong several undescribed plants, which became more abundant as we advanced into the interior of the country, belonging to the genera Anacyclus, Matricaria, Anthemis, and Centaurea.
About half-past four we reached our appointed camping place, at Aïn Oumast, one of the few wells of drinkable water found in the region we had now entered. In the coast zone it would appear that in ordinary years the rainfall is sufficient to enable the natives to raise grain crops wherever the soil is suitable for the purpose; but in the interior, cultivation is limited to the tracts that are capable of irrigation from the streams descending from the Great Atlas, or else to the immediate neighbourhood of wells. The ground around Aïn Oumast had borne a scanty crop of grain, and the rough surface, now baked hard by the sun, was not very comfortable for sleeping upon, even with the intervention of a mattress of cork shavings.
For a short way before our arrival, the main chain of the Great Atlas had for the first time been in view, dimly apparent at a distance of some sixty miles; but as the sun declined towards the horizon, the outlines became clearer, and we naturally watched with increasing interest every feature of that mysterious range seen, even from a distance, by few civilised men, whose recesses we hoped to be the first to explore. We discussed eagerly the question whether some patches of lighter colour represented snow, or merely surfaces of whitish limestone rock; and, as usual, the only effect of discussion was to confirm each in the impression first formed, which it was impossible to verify or disprove unless, by viewing the range from the same direction under similar conditions at a later season, we could discover whether the appearances in question should have altered or disappeared.
The mona presented by the Kaïd or sheik of the place was naturally less profuse than that offered at Shedma, but yet abundant for the needs of our camp. As almost everywhere, save in the remoter valleys of the Atlas, green tea and a quantity of white sugar formed a main feature in the entertainment, and doubtless the most expensive to the poor people who had to provide it.
The day had been warm, though not oppressive, the thermometer probably standing at about 80° Fahr. in the shade, and the fall of temperature during the night was very sensible. Even after the sun had risen on May 1—soon after five A.M.—the thermometer marked only 54° Fahr., but by six A.M. it reached 67°. The observation for altitude gave 1,132 feet (345·5 m.) above the sea; probably too low by fifty or sixty feet, owing to the local effect of radiation in depressing the temperature of the air in contact with the surface.
We were on our way soon after six; and, on leaving behind the bushes and small trees that grow on the skirts of the irrigated ground, we entered on a wide bare plain, stretching unbroken as far as the eye can reach, which forms the most singular feature in the aspect of this part of Marocco. The surface is covered with calcareous rough gravel, mixed in places with siliceous concretions. The scanty vegetation was already nearly all dried up, and it was not without difficulty that we secured specimens of most of the few species that can endure the parching heat and drought. Conspicuous among these was Peganum Harmala, forming at intervals green patches amid the general barrenness. Stipa tortilis was frequent, but mostly dried up, and here and there occurred tufts of a meagre variety of Avena barbata. More interesting than these were a diminutive annual species of Echium (E. modestum, Ball) and two species of Centaurea—one hitherto known as Rhaponticum acaule of Decandolle, the other, before undescribed (C. maroccana, Ball). In its general aspect, and in the character of its vegetation, this region bears a striking likeness to the stony portions of the Sahara, and we were not sorry to include this among our Marocco experiences, though well pleased that the acquaintance was not to be much prolonged.
Some six or seven miles east of Aïn Oumast we passed a short way north of Sidi Moktar, the tomb of a saint much venerated in this region, and the last spot where for a long distance water is to be found at all seasons. This is one of the halting-places, called Nzelas, frequented by ordinary travellers who follow this road. The Nzela is one of the peculiar institutions of this country deserving of some notice. The Marocco Government recognises, at least in theory, the duty of protecting travellers from violence to their persons and goods; for without some provision for the purpose the small amount of trade now existing between the interior and the coast could scarcely continue to exist. As well as all other executive functions, the sovereign commits this to the Governor of each province, who accordingly stations a few armed men at the places where travellers are accustomed to halt. Such a post is a Nzela. It does not imply the existence of any shelter, and still less of any supplies for the sustenance of men and cattle. In a country where the sparse population lives in tents or temporary sheds, the traveller must provide such things for himself; but at a Nzela the wayfarer may count on security from violence, and the guards are entitled to a trifling payment for each beast of burden that is committed to their protection. From any demands of this nature, as well as from the tolls that are levied on passing from one province to another, we were declared by our escort to be free, as personages travelling under the direct authority and protection of the Sultan. The boundaries of the three provinces of Shedma, Mtouga, and Ouled bou Sba met at Sidi Moktar; but such places in Marocco are proverbially unsafe, because they are the frequent resort of robbers and outlaws. In case of a robbery or murder being committed, the people of each tribe throw the blame upon their neighbours, and the men of one province are very shy of attempting to pursue malefactors who take refuge within the boundaries of another. After the commission of many outrages at this place, it was found necessary to transfer a portion of territory to the Ouled bou Sba, at the same time making the Governor of that province and tribe responsible for the safety of those whom business or piety lead to the sanctuary of Sidi Moktar.
As we rode onward the Great Atlas chain remained in view, but dimly seen through the haze that increased with the increasing heat of the day, and ahead of us rose some flat-topped hills of singular aspect which have attracted the attention of all travellers in this region. Some of these hills extend for a considerable distance, while others form small isolated masses; but they agree in two respects—all are flat-topped, and all show a steep escarpment especially on their westward faces. We afterwards saw reason to believe that they all rise about 450 feet above the portion of the plain near at hand, and reach nearly the same height as the plain surrounding the city of Marocco. The general appearance suggested the probability of a former wide extension westward of the latter plain, and subsequent erosion by marine or fluviatile action. As we approached the most conspicuous of these isolated hills, we were struck with the singular appearance of the stunted bushes of Zizyphus Lotus, which form the only arborescent vegetation of this region. From a little distance they looked as if covered by some white-flowered climbing plant, or else laden with white fruit. This appearance was due to the extraordinary number of two species of snails (Helix lactea and H. explanata) that completely covered the branches. We frequently noticed the same appearance afterwards, but nowhere so markedly as here.