The expedition of which an account is given in the following pages was undertaken in the year 1871, and it was originally intended that a narrative of the proceedings should be given to the public soon after our return to England. Sir Joseph D. Hooker, who made careful notes throughout the journey, hoped to complete the work without much delay, and actually wrote the greater part of the first two chapters; but the constant demands upon his time arising from his official duties at Kew, and the important botanical works to which he is a chief contributor, further increased by his election, in 1873, to the Presidency of the Royal Society, so far interfered with the completion of the original design as to compel him to request his fellow-traveller, Mr. Ball, to undertake the completion of the work. The latter was at the time engaged in preparing for publication a memoir on the Flora of Marocco, which has since appeared in the Journal of the Linnæan Society, wherein the botanical collections made during the journey are enumerated and described; and his performance of the task allotted to him has been further delayed by several prolonged absences from England.
As regards many countries visited by travellers a delay of several years in publication might seriously affect the accuracy of a narrative intended to represent the existing condition of the country and its inhabitants; but in the case of Marocco, where, from a comparison with the accounts of early travellers, no notable change is apparent during the last two centuries, the effect of a few years’ interval may be considered insensible. Up to the date of our visit the Great Atlas was little better known to geographers than it was in the time of Strabo and Pliny; and it may be hoped that whatever interest belongs to our journey is as great now as it was at the moment of our return.
The narrative now published is mainly founded on the journals kept by Sir J. Hooker and Mr. Ball, supplemented in some particulars by that of our fellow-traveller, Mr. G. Maw. To the latter we owe a sketch of the Geology of Marocco, which appears in the Appendix. Along with this we have published some interesting contributions received from Mr. H. B. Brady and Mr. Freeman Bogers, as well as some papers upon various matters connected with the physical geography and the flora of Marocco.
It is impossible to present these pages to the public without repeating the expression of our obligations to some of those to whose assistance we largely owe whatever success we were able to attain. Foremost amongst these we must name H. E. Sir John Drummond Hay, K.C.B., British Minister Plenipotentiary in Marocco. From the moment when, in compliance with the request of Sir J. Hooker, Lord Granville, then Foreign Secretary, instructed our Minister to apply for the permission of the Sultan to visit the Great Atlas, Sir J. D. Hay, by his extensive knowledge of the country and the people, and by his great personal influence, afforded invaluable assistance to the expedition.
We were also much indebted for assistance and hospitality to the British Consular agents on the Marocco coast, and especially to the late Mr. Carstensen, then Vice-Consul at Mogador. We should not omit our acknowledgments of the courtesy and valuable information received from the late M. Beaumier, French Consul at the same port.
We trust that in the course of the following pages we have not omitted to express our thanks to other friends who have kindly contributed valuable information. The scope of this volume being mainly to give an account of our personal experience and observations, we have used, but sparingly, other materials, which might be in place if we had aimed at the production of a work of a more elaborate character.
CONTENTS.
| CHAPTER I. | |
| PAGE | |
| Voyage to Gibraltar — View of Tangier — Interiorof the town — Portuguese and English occupation — Hospitablereception by Sir John Drummond Hay — Ravensrock — Government ofMarocco — Climate of North Marocco — Exceptional season — TheDjebel Kebir and its vegetation — Cistus and Heath region — CapeSpartel — Night at the Lighthouse — Cave of Hercules — Arab village— Return to Tangier | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| Start for Tetuan — Vegetation of the low country— Serpent charmers — Twilight in the forest — The Fondak — Stormynight on the roof — Breakfast on the hill — Riff Mountains — AGovernor in chains — Fate of high officials in Marocco — Valley ofTetuan — Jew quarter of the city — Ascent of the Beni Hosmar —Vegetation of the mountain — A quiet day — Jewish population — Rideto Ceuta — Spanish campaign in Marocco — Fortifications of Ceuta —Return to European civilisation — Spanish convict stations inAfrica | [25] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| Sail to Algeciras — Vegetation of theneighbouring hills — Comparison between the opposite sides of theStrait of Gibraltar — Return to Tangier — Troubles of a botanist —Fez pottery — Voyage in French steamer — Rabat and Sallee — Land atCasa Blanca — Vegetation of the neighbourhood — Humidity of thecoast climate — Mazagan — View of Saffi | [58] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| Arrival at Mogador — The Sultan’s letter —Preparations for our journey — The town of Mogador — Theneighbouring country — Ravages of locusts — Native races of SouthMarocco — Excursion to the island — Climate of Mogador — Itsinfluence on consumption — Dinner with the Governor | [75] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| Departure from Mogador — Argan forest — Hillycountry of Haha — Fertile province of Shedma — Hospitality of theGovernor — Turkish visitor — Offering of provisions — Kasbah of theGovernor — Ride to Aïn Oumast — First view of the Great Atlas —Pseudo-Sahara — Tomb of a saint — Nzelas — Ascend the ‘Camel’sBack’ — Oasis of Sheshaoua — Coolness of the night temperature —Rarity of ancient buildings — Halt at Aïn Beida — Tents and luggagegone astray — Night at Misra ben Kara — Cross the Oued Nfys — Plainof Marocco — Range of the Great Atlas — Halt under tamarisktree | [95] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| Approach to the city of Marocco — Pleasantencounter — Halt in an olive garden — Interior of the city —Difficulty as to lodging — Governor unfriendly — Camp in the greatsquare — Negotiations with the Viceroy — Successful result — Palaceof Ben Dreis — Diplomatic difficulties — Gardens of Marocco —Interview with El Graoui | [125] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| Choice of a route in the Atlas — Difficulty ofprocuring information — Hills near the city — Panorama of the GreatAtlas — Probable height of the range — Wild birds of Marocco —Condition of the Jews — Departure from the city — Farewellinterview with El Graoui — District of Mesfioua — Interview withthe Kaïd — Approach to the Great Atlas — Aspect of the vegetation —Castle of Tasseremout — Washington’s visit — Jewish suppliants —Great boulder mounds — Ourika valley — Peculiarities of Moorishcharacter — Rapacity of our escort | [149] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| Vegetation of Ourika valley — Destruction of thenative trees — Our progress checked — Enforced return — Shelluhvillage — Ride from Ourika to Reraya — Trouble with our escort — Afriendly Shelluh sheik — Native desire for medical advice —Characteristics of the Shelluhs — Zaouia of Moulaï Ibrahim — Campin Aït Mesan valley — Excursion to the head of the valley — Reachthe snow — Night travelling in the Atlas | [175] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| The Shelluh sheik bribed — Arrangements forstopping at Arround — Medical practice among the Shelluhs — Arabiccorrespondence — Unexpected difficulty — Strange fancies of thenatives — Threatening weather — Our house at Arround — Gloomymorning — Saint’s tomb — Escape from our guides — Strange encounter— Snow-storm — Tagherot pass — Descent to Arround — Continuance ofbad weather — Sacrifice of a sheep — Shelluh mountaineers — Faunaof the Great Atlas — Return to Hasni — Deplorable condition of ourcamp | [207] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| Departure from Hasni — Plateau of Sektana — Grandview of the Great Atlas — Departure of Maw — Village of Gurgouri —Intrigues of Kaïd el Hasbi — Passage of the Oued Nfys — Arrival atAmsmiz — Friendly Governor — Difficulties as to further progress —Position of Amsmiz — Sleeping quarters in the Kasbah — Fanaticalsheik — Shelluh market — View of the Amsmiz valley — Village ofIminteli — Friendly Jews — Geological structure and vegetation ofthe valley — Sheik’s opposition overcome — Ascent of Djebel Tezah —The guide left behind — View from the summit — Anti-Atlas seen atlast — Deserted dwellings on the peak — Ancient oak forest — Rapiddescent — Night ride to Iminteli | [239] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| Return to Amsmiz — Arround villagers in trouble —Pains and pleasures of a botanist — Ride across the plain — Mzouda— Experiences of a Governor in Marocco — Hospitable chiefof Keira — Avillage in excitement — Arrival at Seksaoua — Fresh difficulties asto our route — A faithful black soldier — Rock vegetation atSeksaoua — Ascent of a neighbouring mountain — View of the GreatAtlas — Absence of perpetual snow — Return of our envoy from Mtouga— Pass leading to Tarudant — Native names for the mountains —Milhaïn — Botanising in the rocks | [271] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| Departure from Milhaïn — Defile of Aïn Tarsil —Dwellings of the troglodytes — Arrival at Mtouga — Gloomy evening —Governor’s return from the fight — Prisoners of war — Their fate —Ride to Mskala — A venerable Moor — Return to the Kasbah of Shedma— Poisoned guests — Ride to Aïn el-Hadjar — The Iron mountain —Ancient mining work — Eccentric soldier — Ascent of Djebel Hadid —Ruins of Akermout — Ride to Mogador — A Kasbah in ruins —Powder-play on the beach — Return to Mogador | [299] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| Second stay at Mogador — Plants obtained throughnative collectors — Outrage committed by the Haha people — Story ofthe troubles in Haha — Farewell presents to our servants and escort— An unpunctual tradesman corrected — Exports from Mogador —Caravans from Timbuktou — Jewish wedding — Voyage in the LadyHavelock — Land at Saffi — Excursion ashore — Land at Mazagan— Return to Tangier, and thence to England | [326] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| Resources of Marocco — Moorish government ahopeless failure — Future prospects of Marocco — Objections toEuropean interference — Answers to such objections | [348] |