The walled space which surrounds the dwelling of the sovereign appeared to be a nearly regular square, of which the sides measure about half a mile. Besides the residence of the Sultan, rarely inhabited of late years, and the extensive ranges of mean irregular buildings used by his attendants and body-guard, another block of buildings served as the dwelling of his son, the then Viceroy; and a third group, to which we proceeded, was the home of El Graoui, who thus avoided the inconvenience of inhabiting a place subject to the authority of his rival, Ben Daoud. We saw no building of the slightest architectural pretensions, or at all comparable to the house in which we ourselves were lodged. Through narrow tortuous passages, amidst low buildings, scarcely more than ten feet high, and of the meanest appearance, we reached a whitewashed building of two floors, and through a narrow door and passage were ushered up a short flight of steps into a small room, wherein sat a stout man of completely black complexion, whose broad countenance gave the impression of considerable energy with an habitual expression of good-humoured ferocity. The room was decorated with woodwork, cut into elaborate geometrical patterns and painted in bright colours, the only form of decorative art known to the Moors, and lighted by a lanthorn overhead through small bits of coloured glass. We seated ourselves on the carpet-covered cushions ranged on either side, and a few of the ordinary phrases of courtesy, familiar to all readers who have made a tour in the East, were exchanged. Presently, on a signal from the great man, the inevitable green tea was served in English china tea-cups, followed by a slight refection, the air of the room being meanwhile perfumed with the heavy scent of incense burned over charcoal.
After this, we, without further preface, commenced conversation as to the object of our journey, taking care to adhere as nearly as possible to the line of discourse previously fixed upon. Having in general terms explained that we wanted to collect the plants of the high mountains, Hooker was careful to add that we did not care about stones or minerals. We had been warned that the belief in the existence of precious metals in the Atlas is traditional in the country; and though no ruler of Marocco is known to have made any effort to search for or work mines, extreme jealousy is felt lest strangers should be attracted by the prospect, and attempt, in consequence, to establish themselves in the country. In point of fact, we were obliged to refrain from any overt attempt to collect even the commonest rocks, and the fragments which we carried away were picked up and pocketed—as by stealth—when removed from the watchful eyes of our followers.
El Graoui, with apparent frankness and good-humour, said that he should have much pleasure in carrying into effect the intentions of the Sultan in our regard, and that we should have full liberty to go where we pleased in the portions of the Great Atlas where the authority of the Sultan is recognised, orders being given that the local authorities should provide food for us and our followers. This brought us at once to a question of pressing importance. Up to this moment we had no notion as to the limits that might be set to our journey by the Marocco authorities, though too well aware that Hooker’s engagements in England would not under any circumstances allow us to carry our explorations very far. In answer to our inquiries, we were told that we were free to travel on the northern slope of the mountains that send their waters to the plain of Marocco. The names of various districts were mentioned, several of which were strange to our ears, and not to be found on any map; but we retained those of Glaoui, Ourika, and Reraya, the latter two being afterwards familiar to us. Further than this, we were informed that we might travel eastward through the provinces of Demenet and Ntifa, both apparently high mountain regions, whose waters run northward to the Oum-er-bia. We were emphatically told that we must not attempt to cross the chain southward in the direction of the Sous valley, and we gave a distinct promise to abstain from doing so. The actual decision as to our future route was far too important a matter to be disposed of on the spot by men so imperfectly prepared as we necessarily were, and it was arranged that Hooker should, in the course of the next day or two, acquaint El Graoui with the route which we might adopt.
The main point being thus settled, some further conversation ensued as to the arrangements for our journey. El Graoui informed us that he would send an escort of five soldiers under the command of a Kaïd, and further suggested that the escort that had already accompanied us from Mogador should remain with us throughout the journey. As it seemed desirable to humour the great man’s fancies, the latter arrangement was at once agreed to, and in the sequel we found it decidedly advantageous. The interview was brought to a close by Hooker presenting to El Graoui a pair of excellent, though not showy, rifled pistols, which he had brought from England under the impression that they might be useful for personal defence. We had an unnecessarily large store of articles intended for presents—silver watches, musical boxes, opera glasses, cutlery, and the like; but, on reviewing our stores, Mr. Hunot decided that such objects would be thought too paltry for a man of El Graoui’s importance, and that serviceable fire-arms would be far better suited to his taste.
FOOTNOTES:
[1]The designation Sidi, equivalent to the Italian Signore, given to persons of consideration, forms no part of the name. In conversation it is abbreviated to Si.
CHAPTER VII.
Choice of a route in the Atlas — Difficulty of procuring information — Hills near the city — Panorama of the Great Atlas — Probable height of the range — Wild birds of Marocco — Condition of the Jews — Departure from the city — Farewell interview with El Graoui — District of Mesfioua — Interview with the Kaïd — Approach to the Great Atlas — Aspect of the vegetation — Castle of Tasseremout — Washington’s visit — Jewish suppliants — Great boulder mounds — Ourika valley — Peculiarities of Moorish character — Rapacity of our escort.
On returning from our interview with El Graoui, we felt that our most urgent want was reliable information about the districts mentioned by him as within the possible range of our expedition. Hooker had already ordered Abraham to make inquiry for some one who had actually travelled eastward from the city into the mountain country; but such a person was by no means so easily found as a stranger might suppose. The few Moors who ever go into the interior are cut off from communication with the natives by ignorance of the language; and, besides this, the Moor is usually too incurious and intellectually sluggish to carry away information about anything not directly concerning his own business or pleasure. Had our stay in Marocco been prolonged, we might perhaps have been able to collect some details as to the interior provinces from natives of the mountain valleys who must from time to time resort to the city; but it is very doubtful whether a Christian stranger could obtain anything reliable in this way. People constantly forget how wide the gap is that separates the mind of a modern European from that of the inhabitant of a barbarous country, where the conditions of society are such that apprehension of danger to life and property becomes the predominant feeling. The notion that a man can care to acquire knowledge of any kind for its own sake is not for a moment admitted, and suspicion is necessarily the first feeling aroused by any inquiry, however apparently harmless. Bearing this in mind, we often felt astonishment at the share of success that has been attained by some geographers, and especially by Captain Beaudouin, the author of the French War Office map of Marocco. It is true that some large portions of that map are quite unreliable, and that it contains many grave errors as to the direction of the mountain ranges and valleys; but, considering that the greater part of it was compiled by the comparison of itineraries and descriptions furnished by a large number of separate native informants, the wonderful thing is that in many districts it should approach so near to accuracy as it does; and it undoubtedly shows a very remarkable degree of care, patience, and intelligence on the part of its author.