awaits the spread of some creature to which their eggs would afford suitable food.
In great measure influenced by Washington’s account of his visit to Tasseremout, and his conviction that from that place the highest ridge of the Atlas might be reached in a single day’s excursion, we had decided on making that our first halting-place; and, as the distance can be little over twenty miles, we reckoned on reaching it by evening. Our way lay about due south-east through the district of Mesfioua, which is under the rule of a Kaïd, or subgovernor, subject to the orders of El Graoui.
To the eye the country seems a dead level; but the rapid flow of water in the covered channels and smaller open rivulets showed that the slope of the ground from south to north is very decided. Along the smaller watercourses we noticed in abundance what appeared to be a new Pulicaria, but was afterwards found to be the same as an eastern species (P. longifolia) described by Boissier.
We rode along in high spirits, delighted to leave the city, and still more with the near prospect of setting foot on the mountain chain whose unknown recesses had so long been a fascination for us; and the only drawback on our enjoyment was the shifting veil of clouds that hung about the higher summits, only now and then allowing some rugged peak to stand out for a few moments. As we gradually drew nearer, our attention was more and more fixed on the remarkable line of flat-topped bluffs, conspicuous in the view from the city, that extends for a distance of fully twenty miles along the base of the Atlas chain, and on the east side seems to jut out in a northern direction. From a distance the face appears quite precipitous and almost vertical, and there is but one conspicuous break in its continuity. This, as we afterwards found, is caused by the stream running under Tasseremout, which has cut a deep channel through the barrier.
After riding about three hours we approached an inhabited place, which we were told was the residence of the Kaïd. We had left behind us the tract of country ravaged by locusts, and the general aspect of things was here much brighter than we had beheld since leaving the coast region. The more brilliant green and more vigorous growth of herbaceous plants led us to infer that, irrespective of the influence of irrigation, the zone extending round the base of the mountain region must receive at least some share of the more frequent rains that occur there at seasons when the low country in general is condemned to utter drought. On reaching the kasbah of the Kaïd, which showed as a low but substantial building, with walls sloping outward, we were accosted by an official deputed to apologise for the absence of his chief, who was to return towards evening, and to invite us to halt there for the remainder of the day. As it was now about noon, this proposition was met at once by a decided negative, when the chief of our Marocco escort intervened and, with an air of dogged insistance, urged the necessity for a halt. There ensued the first of many an altercation with the same disagreeable person, in which it is needless to say that Hooker’s decision and firmness prevailed, and the order went forth to continue our journey.
Amongst the bushes near at hand we for the first time gathered a curious, but no way ornamental, Cruciferous plant, first found by M. Balansa, which exhibits the only distinct generic type yet found in the interior of South Marocco, and has been described by M. Cosson under the name Ceratocnemum rapistroides. It here grew four or five feet high, with long slender branches; but in open places we afterwards found it in comparatively stunted condition—a foot, or less, in height.
The country, after quitting the kasbah, gradually changed its character. Scattered blocks of moderate size showed themselves with increasing frequency, and seemed to be of very varied composition. Some were formed of a coarse-grained sandstone or fine conglomerate, others appeared to be granitic, though deficient in mica, while others looked like porphyry. The restrictions by which we were bound prevented us from undertaking any close examination, and still more from attempting to carry away specimens. The predominance of silex in the soil was made apparent by the vegetation. We had already often admired the pretty little rose-coloured Spergularia diandra, common on sandy soil throughout Southern Marocco; but this here became a conspicuous ornament; its numerous delicate flowers forming large cushions of bright colour on the surface of the soil. Among other characteristic species not before seen were Aïzoon canariense and a new species of Anthemis; but the predominant element in the vegetation was furnished by the Leguminosæ, and especially by the genera Trifolium, Medicago, Ononis, and Lotus. Of the first two genera we found in the lower region none but the common Mediterranean species, while the others displayed many local forms. One Ononis here found was altogether new; and a Lotus, not elsewhere seen in our journey, seemed identical with an Oriental species not hitherto found west of Greece.
As we advanced, the upward slope of the ground towards the foot of the great range became much more perceptible, though still very gradual. At near 4 P.M., we arrived at another house belonging to the Kaïd of Mesfioua, and were informed that that functionary was waiting to receive us, and expected us to halt there for the night. The instinctive feeling of an Englishman who has made up his mind to accomplish a certain distance in his day’s journey is to close his ears to any suggestion of delay, and all the more decidedly when there is reason to think that other people are scheming to oppose him; so at first it seemed as if we should have further altercation with our escort. But as prudence pointed out that, whatever the feelings of the local authorities might be in our regard, it would be injudicious to do anything to give offence, and as at the same time the appearance of the country near at hand promised good botanising, we speedily decided on making a virtue of necessity, and with sufficiently good grace agreed to pitch our tents. By this time the Kaïd had come out to receive us, but retired after a brief salutation, it being understood that conversation was reserved till evening.
Without loss of time, we sallied forth with our portfolios, attended by one of the soldiers who was supposed to watch over our safety, and directing our steps to a dry river-bed that winds through the plain close by, were rewarded for our self-denial by finding a number of interesting plants not before seen. The most conspicuous of these was a Tamarix, which in some places grew thickly near the banks. It is remarkable for the bright pink colour of the seed vessel, and differed much in general aspect, though not widely in structure, from the common T. gallica. The river-bed is probably the natural channel of the stream that flows below Tasseremout, part of which is diverted into irrigation channels, but during rainy weather resumes its original course.
As the sun declined the clouds cleared away from the higher ridges of the Atlas, of which we enjoyed the finest view we had yet attained. Nearly due east and thence bearing towards ESE., was a group of high summits which, to judge from several large patches of snow, must be quite as lofty as that nearer to us. Between this, which belongs as we believe to the district called Glaoui, and the nearer range it was clear that a considerable valley runs deep into the chain. The drainage of this valley must flow to the Oued Tensift; but whether that be the main eastern branch of the river, or an affluent not indicated on the maps, is as yet uncertain.