As we gradually wound upwards, and the Aït Mesan valley was finally lost to view, we found that, instead of reaching a pass whence we should descend into an adjoining valley more or less parallel to that which we had left, the country before us was an undulating plateau, extending over a space of many miles, through which no stream runs from the higher mountains towards the plain. This plateau does not subside gradually towards the low country as might have been expected; for at almost every point we found higher ground lying between us and the plain, in the form of rounded eminences, rising some three or four hundred feet above the plateau. The soil was calcareous, and the underlying pale limestone cropped up here and there; but the stratification appeared very irregular. In some places we noticed bosses of intrusive igneous rock of dark colour. Though no villages were in sight, most of the surface was under rude tillage; but the fields were gay with a multitude of wild species in full flower.
After the excitement of the preceding days, the afternoon ride seemed uneventful in a botanical sense, as we failed to find much that was altogether new. The most interesting forms were several fine Orobanches, which might here be studied with profit by a traveller less pressed for time than we were. A great feast of colour was presented to us as we approached Sektana, our camping place, by a magnificent new Linaria, of which we had hitherto seen only stunted and starved specimens. In some fields of corn not yet in ear, the spikes of numerous dark crimson flowers all but concealed the green, and gave to the surface a tone of subdued splendour. The plant has been described by Hooker, in the Botanical Magazine (vol. 98, No. 5983), as Linaria Maroccana. The artist, who had not seen the wild plant, has failed to attain the rich tint of the native flowers. In cultivation, the colour loses its original depth, and in some gardens it has faded to a pale purple or violet tint. From this, and other differences shown in cultivation, it seems possible that this may be an extreme form of Linaria heterophylla of Desfontaines, a plant so different in appearance that, at first sight, no one would suspect very near relationship between them.
Our camp this evening was fixed on open ground, near the village of Sektana. To the north, between us and the plain, a hill rose some 400 or 500 feet, crowned by a castellated building, somewhat similar to that at Tasseremout, of which all that we could learn was that it had been built by Christians or Romans, the same word, as before observed, bearing either interpretation. To the south, the plateau stretched away in rolling downs, unbroken by tree or house, save a few small plants—probably fruit trees—growing near the village, about half-a-mile from our camp. We were received, on our arrival, with some show of cordiality by three native sheiks; and a mona, on a scale sufficient to satisfy even our greedy soldiers, was forthcoming during the evening.
It appeared that Hooker’s fame as a physician had already spread far and wide, to an extent that might, indeed, have been inconvenient if we had remained longer in this district. On this evening, and the following morning, troops of applicants for medical relief continued to arrive at our camp, and amongst them a moullah of reputed sanctity, from Moulaï Ibrahim, troubled with some painful affection of the eyes.
Between the ordinary work at our plants, writing up journals, and completing a letter from Hooker to the late Sir Roderick Murchison, with a brief account of our proceedings up to this point, the evening was fully occupied, and we enjoyed the change of climate that had accompanied the return of fine weather. The thermometer at 8 P.M. did not fall below 58°, and the mean of two closely accordant observations gave for the height of our camp, 4,523 feet (1,378·7 m.) above the sea level.
The morning of May 19 broke brilliantly. Although on the preceding day we had travelled under a blue sky, the higher mountains had been concealed by dense masses of fleecy cumuli, and we were not prepared for the grandeur of the panoramic view that was spread before our eyes, as we sallied from our tents in the early morning. A large portion of the range of the Great Atlas of Marocco stood robed in glittering snow down to a height of about 7,000 feet above the sea level, only the projecting ribs of rock appearing through the white vestment along the higher and steeper ridges. In the annexed sketch is shown the part of the range nearest to our camp, lying between the head of the Aït Mesan valley, and that of the next adjoining (much shorter) valley that opened nearly due south from our station. The view, however, extended in both directions far beyond the nearer part of the range. The high peaks of the Ourika district were sharply cut against the sky, but so crowded together that their relative position was not apparent. Farther east were other high peaks, probably belonging to the district of Glaoui. Turning westward, it was seen that to the right of the high group shown in the sketch, the valley which feeds the main branch of the Oued Nfys runs deep into the main range, which here sinks to the comparatively low level of about 7,500 feet. Towards this valley the high snow-clad mass before us fell with comparatively easy slopes, nowhere difficult of access; and we indulged in the hope that, by fixing our camp pretty high up, we should be able to effect another ascent.
To the west of this great gap the main chain rises again to a considerable height, but less by at least 2,000 feet than that of the central range which we were now about to leave. The western range also differs in being less continuous; the peaks are comparatively isolated, and of massive, conical form; and the intervening passes do not seem to rise above the level of tree vegetation. We observed that, even allowing for its lesser elevation, the western range showed much less snow, whether because during the recent bad weather the precipitation was more considerable on the eastern group, or because in the region nearer to the ocean this had fallen mainly in the form of rain.
J. B. delt.
WEST END OF THE MAROCCO ATLAS FROM SEKTANA