As evening was fast approaching, we rode hurriedly through a little defile among the hills, where the rocks promised plants of interest, and soon after came upon the first Argan trees that we had seen since we quitted the province of Shedma, on April 30. Associated as the tree was in our minds with Mogador, where we had bidden farewell to European life, the sight awakened feelings of regret at the approaching termination of our tour, tempered by satisfaction at the prospect of returning to the usages and intercourse of civilised life.
About seven o’clock we reached Mskala, a rather large village on a stony slope, and saw close beside it an extensive camp where the old Governor of Shedma, with a considerable force, was, by the Sultan’s order, watching the progress of events in the contest between the adjoining provinces. We established ourselves in a stony field a few hundred yards away from the Governor’s camp, and before long an ample mona, consisting of two sheep, twenty-four fowls, tea, sugar, butter, and other luxuries, followed a little later by seven large dishes of cooked food, satisfied the cravings of our ever greedy soldiers, and the greater part of the night was devoted to general feasting throughout our camp.
On the morning of May 31 our men were in no haste to bestir themselves after the orgy of the preceding night, and we indulged in a longer rest than usual. The weather was fine and clear, but remarkably cool considering the moderate elevation of this district. By our observations our camp stood at 1,562 feet (476·3 m.) above the sea; yet at 8 A.M., when the sun was already high above the horizon, the thermometer marked only 65° F. It was suggested that politeness required a visit to the old Governor, and Hooker, with our interpreter and some of the escort, devoted himself to that duty, while Ball set off alone for a short botanical ramble over the bare, stony hills surrounding our camp. The excursion was not very fruitful, except in the way of illustrating the effects of barren soil and exposure, without the slightest shade or cover, on the growth of many species that here assumed a dwarfed and stunted condition.
Hooker, who had seen too much of the people of barbarous countries to be open to the illusions that many travellers, new to their manners, readily fall into, was, for once, very favourably impressed by his interview with the Governor of Shedma. He had found an old man of venerable aspect, with remarkably fine features, whose conversation displayed a happy union of dignity and frankness. He was engaged in superintending the distribution of pay to his soldiers, and the subject that naturally arose for discussion was the part which he and his forces were destined to play in the intestine troubles of their neighbours. His instructions from the Sultan were, as it seemed, of an indefinite kind. He had, in the first instance, endeavoured to play the part of mediator and avert the outbreak of hostilities. His present duty was to hold himself in readiness to carry out such further orders as he might receive. Considering the jealousies that always exist between the people of neighbouring provinces, usually inhabited by tribes of different race and origin, it may be doubted whether the troubles and losses of their neighbours are in Marocco viewed as matters of deep concern; or whether, as sometimes happens among the statesmen of more important countries, the mediator may not feel some secret satisfaction at the failure of his own proposals.
Shortly before 10 A.M. we started for an easy ride of three hours over the undulating country that lies between Mskala and the kasbah of Shedma, where we were to meet Mr. Carstensen. It was an agreeable change from the bare hills, with which we had of late been familiar, to enter on a comparatively well-wooded country. The Argan trees were nowhere so near together as to form what could be called a forest, but scattered in small clumps or single trees over the surface, so that nothing but a carpet of green turf was wanting to complete the resemblance to an English park. On reaching the kasbah, we found that our arrival was already expected. Our former host, the Governor’s corpulent son, had two rooms within the castle walls prepared for our reception, and before one o’clock we were installed in clean quarters, with iron bedsteads of European make, and cushions covered with Rabat carpets to complete the furniture. Soon after two o’clock notice of Mr. Carstensen’s approach reached the castle; the Governor’s son, with several armed men, went forth to meet him, and before long we had the pleasure of again greeting a gentleman to whose activity and thoughtful care we felt so much indebted.
Much of the afternoon was naturally employed in giving an account of our doings. When we reached the close of the story, and Hooker spoke of his morning’s interview with the aged Governor, in whose stronghold we were lodged, and the favourable impression made by his appearance and demeanour, the reply was somewhat startling even to men who had learned something of the manners of the country. ‘Yes,’ said Mr. Carstensen, ‘he is a fine-looking fellow, but he is not much better than other men of his class. Last year he poisoned two friends of mine under very discreditable circumstances.’ The victims were men of consequence, near kinsmen of the Governor, and supposed to have much influence among the Shedma people who resided in Mogador. Early in the preceding year they were induced by hospitable messages to pay a visit to their powerful relative. Familiar with the ways of Marocco, and feeling sure that his friends were objects of jealousy and suspicion to the great man, Mr. Carstensen at once wrote an urgent letter, in which he expressed his strong anxiety for the safety of the visitors. He soon received a reply written in the most reassuring terms: ‘Far be it from me,’ wrote the Governor, ‘to harm these men; I shall take every care of them, and cherish them as if they were my own children.’ A few weeks later another letter reached Mogador: ‘Nothing could exceed the Governor’s grief at having to announce that one of his guests had been taken suddenly ill, and soon after died. Such, however, was the decree of Allah, and we must all be resigned to his will.’ Mr. Carstensen was not surprised when, a little later, another letter reached him, conveying in nearly the same terms an account of the death of the second guest. He had no doubt of foul play having been used; but some months later received further assurance, when, on taxing the Governor’s son (our fat friend) with his suspicions, the latter answered: ‘Well, the fact is that my papa did not know what to do with them, so he had them poisoned.’
It seems strange at the present day to find so near to Europe a condition of society in some respects so like that of Italy in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, wherein no deed of atrocity committed by men in authority awakens the slightest feeling of moral reprobation. In the present instance local ideas had so far prevailed that Mr. Carstensen did not consider it expedient to allow what had occurred to interrupt his amicable relations with the Governor.
To lessen our regret for having failed to see something of the western extremity of the Great Atlas, Mr. Carstensen proposed that we should visit the Djebel Hadid, or Iron Mountain, a range of hills, about 2,000 feet in height, that approaches the sea about fourteen miles NE. of Mogador, and extends inland in a NE. direction for a distance of some five-and-twenty miles. So far as we knew, this had not been visited by any European naturalist except M. Balansa, and we willingly accepted the suggestion, and, following Mr. Carstensen’s advice, arranged to fix our camp next day at Aïn el Hadjar, a spot where some copious springs burst forth at the SW. extremity of the range.
The forenoon of June 1 was spent in the kasbah, and in a short ramble on the adjoining slopes. The appearance of the country was much altered since we had passed here at the end of April. The spring vegetation was then far advanced, and many annuals had ripened their seeds; but, thanks to the rain which had fallen at intervals during May, a new crop of young plants had sprung up; and during this and the following days we were able to gather several species in flower that we had before seen only in fruit. The fields where, at our last visit, the corn was being cut, had been ploughed up, and pumpkins had been extensively sown round the kasbah. There was more appearance of a taste for ornamental plants than we had seen anywhere among the Moors. The Governor had transactions with many of the foreign merchants at Mogador, and in that way had no difficulty in obtaining seeds or cuttings of many garden flowers. Amongst these we noted roses, pinks, garden-stock, geraniums, dahlias, Tagetes, and Coreopsis. Oranges and bananas were also cultivated; but it seemed doubtful whether in ordinary seasons the climate is suitable. The spring rains had recently extended over a wide tract of country, but they seem to be more often limited to the zone surrounding the higher mountains.
Among other articles intended for presents, Ball had picked up in London a large Highland brooch, with a yellow cairngorm crystal set in silver. This, with an opera-glass, was given to the Governor’s son as we took leave of him. The use of gold or silver and jewels for personal adornment is forbidden by law or custom to Moorish men; and the gift, which was sure to be transferred to a favourite wife, did not seem to be much appreciated.