The component parts of a storage-battery are lead in metallic and chemical form, the electrolyte, or fluid, in which the plates are immersed, and the water-tight and chemical-proof cell or container. From a plumber, a supply-house, or a lead-works, obtain a quantity of three-eighth by one-quarter-inch strip-lead of the kind called chemical, or desilverized; also a larger quantity of lead-tape, one-sixty-fourth of an inch thick and three-eighths of an inch wide. This last is also known as torpedo-lead, and is kept by electrical supply-houses.
If the three-eighths by quarter-inch strip-lead cannot be had, then purchase eight or ten pounds of heavy sheet-lead, and, with a tin-shears, divide it into strips three-eighths of an inch wide and twenty-nine inches long, taking care to cut it of uniform width and with true edges. From hard-wood three-eighths or half an inch thick, cut a block six by seven inches and make four countersunk holes in it, so that it may be screwed fast to a table or bench, as shown in [Fig. 11] A. Around this the lead strips should be shaped and beaten at the corners to make the angles sharp.
From the three-eighths by quarter-inch, or sheet-lead strips, make seven frames as shown in [Fig. 12]. This is done by binding a strip of the lead around the block, as shown at [Fig. 11] B. Where the ends come together insert a short piece of lead, three-eighths or half-inch, as shown at [Fig. 12] A, and solder it fast. A soldering-iron may be heated with a Bunsen-burner gas-flame or in a charcoal fire. However, if gas is available, it would be better to use the blue flame from a Bunsen burner and direct the hot blast directly on the work with a blow-pipe, and so fuse the lead points together. After a little practice with the blow-pipe it will be used for many pieces of work in preference to the soldering-iron. If the sheet-lead is used for the frames in place of the three-eighths by quarter-inch strips, two or three strips will have to be taken, so as to build up the band of the frame to about a quarter of an inch in thickness. When soldered together, or fused at the edges, these built-up frames will be as rigid as the solid metal.
Now cut a number of strips of the thin lead-tape six inches and a half long, and others that will necessarily be somewhat longer, for each frame is to be filled with straight and crimped pieces, as shown in [Fig. 13]. If there is a fluting-iron in the house, the crimping may be done in the brass gears at one end of the machine. Or two wheels may be cut from hard-wood with a fret-saw, and made fast to a block with screws, as shown in [Fig. 14]. A handle, attached to one wheel, will make it possible to turn the gears; and they should be placed just far enough apart to allow the tape to pass through without tearing or squeezing. Put a washer between the wheel and the block to prevent friction.
When a frame is in the position shown in [Fig. 13], and lying on a piece of slate or flat stone, you will first put in a crimped piece of tape, as shown at [Fig. 13] A, and under this arrange a straight piece ([Fig. 13] B); then, with the blow-pipe and flame, fuse fast to the frame and catch the flutes of the crimped piece to the straight one every inch or two. Add alternate crimped and straight strips until the frame is filled and presents the appearance of [Fig. 13]. When the seven frames are ready, lay three of them aside for the positives and four for the negatives. Note that the positives are red and the negatives a dark yellow when they are filled with the active material.
There are several methods of depositing the active material in the mesh or net-work of the plates, but some of them are too technical, others too complicated, and still others require charging machinery. The following plan will be the simplest and easiest for the amateur:
At a paint-store, or from a wholesale druggist, obtain several pounds of oxide of lead (red-lead) and a similar quantity of litharge (yellow-lead). In an earthen vessel, or large jar, make a solution composed of water, twenty ounces, and commercial sulphuric acid, two ounces. This is the mixture commonly known as “one to ten.” Place some red-lead (dry) in an old saucepan or soup-plate, and add a little of the acid solution: then, with an old table-knife or small trowel, mix the lead into a stiff paste, like soft putty. Do not get it too thin or it will run; nor too thick, as then it will not properly adhere to the lead-mesh of the frames. With the frame lying on its side, plaster in the red composition between the flutes and fill up the frame solid with it. Treat all three of the positive frames in the same manner, taking care that the exposed surfaces of the composition-filling is smooth and flush with the edges of the lead frame and mesh. Do not disturb these plates for a while, but let them remain in position, so as to set and partially dry. Add acid solution to the yellow-lead in a similar manner, and fill the four negative plates. When partially dry, the plates will be ready to combine in a pile.