From half-inch wood cut three shelves fifteen inches long and six inches wide; also two corner-posts from wood an inch square. Cut the end of each shelf as shown in Fig. 18 B, so that one notch will fit against the upright and the other against the corner-post. From the half-inch wood cut two brackets three inches long and two and a half inches wide at the top, as shown at Fig. 18 C. These hold up the bottom shelf, and the other shelves are supported in turn by the corner-posts and the back, to which the shelves are securely attached with screws and glue. The corner-posts are fifteen inches high, and near the top laps are cut half an inch deep and one inch wide into which a cross-rail will fit. Three thin slats one inch in width and six inches long are made fast across the front, and above the top shelf, to form the pamphlet or periodical rack. The nail and screw heads may be covered with brass upholsterers’ tacks painted black to suggest the idea of a large nail, or imitation wrought-iron nail-heads may be made by cutting disks out of sheet-lead and slightly beating the edges so as to imitate the hammer-marks of wrought-iron work. These disks are secured to the wood with slim steel nails, the heads of which, when driven in with a light hammer, become imbedded in the soft lead. A subsequent coating of black paint will conceal the nail-heads completely.
A Box Book-case
Fig. 19 is an idea for a receptacle for a few books, bric-à-brac, and some magazines to hang against the wall. Boxes of various sizes may be used for this purpose, according to the available wall space, but for general use two shoe-cases should be cut down so as to make them thirty inches high and seven inches deep. In each one two shelves can be arranged.
The boxes are held together at top and bottom with boards seven inches wide and thirty-six inches long. Between the boxes a shelf may be fastened about midway between the top and bottom boards. A wooden back is not necessary to this case, as the wall itself will answer the purpose; but around the top edge a strip of cornice-moulding is to be mitred at the corners and attached with long, slim nails or screws. Under the lower corners wooden brackets may be fastened to the wall, or when the shoe-cases are being cut down one side may be trimmed, with the compass-saw, in the form of a bracket end. A rod fastened at the top and under the moulding will support light curtains, but this last feature may be omitted at pleasure.
A Nursery Book-rack
A nursery is not quite complete without some receptacle for the accommodation of the children’s scrap and picture books. A simple and useful design is shown in Fig. 20.
A well-made box of thin boards, planed on both sides, forms the basis for this bookcase. It should be of medium size and not more than seven inches deep. Remove one side or the top, so as to leave it open at the front, and arrange a shelf in the open space. The box should be at least sixteen inches high to accommodate two rows of books, and it would be better to have it eighteen inches. Two brackets eight inches high and six inches wide at the top are placed under each end of the box. Across the top, at the back, a wall-plate is cut and attached with two slim screws that pass down through the narrow part near the ends and into the back of the box at the top. Around the top of the box a narrow strip of moulding should be mitred and fastened with steel-wire nails. The wood-work may then be given a coat of stain and shellac. Across the front of the box and at the top a brass or iron rod may be attached at the ends, from which curtains are suspended by means of rings.
Fig. 20. Fig. 21.