Considering all this, the claim under the circumstances that any other country is the “home of tea,” as is attempted at the present time by some English writers, is about as futile and absurd as the endeavor to substitute Americus for Columbus, or Bacon for Shakespeare. And not only is China the original home of tea, but in addition, China Tea is the only true tea, surpassing that of all other countries in every property and quality constituting and distinguishing tea, and possessing certain distinctive characteristics peculiar to and contained in no other variety grown or known. Yet while grown to a greater or less extent all over that vast empire, its cultivation for commercial purposes appears to be chiefly confined to the eastern provinces of Che-kiang, Kiang-see, Gan-hwuy and Fo-kien, some little also being produced for export in the western province of Sze-chuan.
China Green Teas
are produced principally in the provinces of Che-kiang, Gan-hwuy and Kiang-see, and are known to trade as Sunglos, Moyunes, Hychows, Fychows, Tienkes, Tayshings, Pingsueys, Cantons, and Country green teas, district terms and grading in the order named. These varieties being again subdivided into Gunpowders, Imperials, Hysons, Young Hysons, Hyson-Pekoes, and Hyson-Skin—appellations denoting age, size, style, or form of make.
Sunglo—Famous in China at one time as the district where Green teas were first produced, and which were for centuries the finest grown in that country. Latterly, however, it has greatly declined as a tea-producing district, the quality also degenerating at the same time, much of that now sold as “true Sunglo” being only so in name. They are what is known to trade as “Hill” or high-district tea, natural green in color, exceedingly well made and prepared, yielding a rich, straw-colored liquor, clear and sparkling in the cup, fragrant and aromatic in flavor. The infused leaf is small, symmetrical and uniform to a high degree, in fact almost perfect in shape, an invariable indication of youthfulness, fineness and tenderness.
Mo-Yuen—Known to trade as “Moyune,” now produces the bulk of the best Green teas received from China. Grown principally on the plains or lowlands adjacent to Sunglo from which fact they are sometimes termed “Garden teas” in contradistinction to the upland or “hill teas,” and to which they are inferior in make, liquor, and flavor. They are of three kinds—“Nankin,” “Pakeong,” and “Oochaine”—so named from the “piens” or localities in which they are raised.
Nankin Moyune—Is the most valuable, intrinsically and commercially, being superior to the others in make, color, draw and drink. The dried leaf is firmly rolled or curled according to “make,” rich, natural green in color, and extremely uniform in general appearance. The infusion of the finer grades is light golden in tint, brisk, and pungent in body, and possessing a flavor peculiar to itself, technically termed “toasty.” It is deceptive in drink owing to its light color in the cup, the body being full and heavy, the infused leaf is small, but regular and well-shaped and of a light-green hue.
Pakeong—Differs from Nankin in many respects, though grown in the same district. The dry leaf is larger and more open, being what is termed “loosely made,” duller in color and not as highly fired. The finer grades, however, yield a rich, ripe liquor, comparatively light in color and delicate in flavor, but lacking in that “toastiness” for which the former are so much admired.
Oochaine—Is a small leaf tea, generally darker in color, heavier in body and more pungent in flavor, but owing to its small size and imperfect preparation not as well appreciated as it deserves.
Hy-chows—Though raised in the adjoining district to Moyune are nevertheless much inferior to them in both leaf and liquor. The dry leaf, while firmly made and regular in form, silvery-green in color and considered attractive in appearance, is still very deceptive and lacking in cup qualities. The infusion, although darker in color and fairly pungent, is light in body and devoid of fragrance, the infused leaf being dark, coarse and irregular.
Fy-chows—Are bold and rough in general appearance, dull in color, dark and heavy in liquor, and somewhat astringent in flavor, and on the whole an undesirable sort.