comprise Ning-chows, Oonfas, Oopacks, Oonams, Kin-tucks, Kee-muns, Kiu-kiangs, Panyong, Hapyong, Paklin and Paklums, and constitute the true Black teas of China.
Ning-chow—Is a small, evenly-curled leaf, greyish-black in color and very stylish in general appearance, the finer grades being “Pekoe-tipped” and flavored. The infusion is dark red or wine-colored but delicate and aromatic, more so than that of any tea of this variety, while the infused leaf is small, tender, symmetrical and of a bright brown or reddish tendency. The lower grades are fairly thick and strong, making a useful tea for the retailer, as they keep well and combine advantageously with most other varieties, less regular and uniform, browner and given to “choppiness” and dust. The liquor, though of good color, is not as clear and bright, the infused leaf being more markedly red than that of the former sorts. The medium and lower grades are fairly thick in the cup; but have a tendency to become overripe, and while not keeping, still blend well with a pungent Assam or light-bodied Oolong tea.
Oonfa—While not as finely twisted or as handsome as Ning-chow, is still the next most important of the Black-leaf Congous. The dried leaf of the finer grades is bold in make, yielding a dark, heavy liquor, lacking in fragrance, but proving a desirable sort where body and strength is required. The medium grades are rough and open, the liquor, though mostly strong, is often “tarry,” and frequently sour when kept too long, while the lower grades are thin in body and coarse in flavor, having nothing to recommend them but their leaf, which is generally free from dust.
Oopack—Grown on the banks of the Yang Tse, a little above Hankow, is a “crapy” black leaf tea, evenly curled, but somewhat bold in style. When freshly fired they are flavory and aromatic, but become dull and “brassy” as the firing wears off, for which reason it is not a good tea to keep. If used quick, however, it blends well with broken Assam, when thick and heavy, the commoner grades being fairly smooth and sweet in the cup, though coarse and rough in the hand.
Oonams—Are a class of tea somewhat resembling Oopacks in style and draw, but preferable to the latter approximating closer to Ning-chow in flavor. The dry-leaf is also more evenly twisted, smaller and greyer and the infusion fuller and stronger.
Kin-tuck—Is comparatively a new variety, but is rapidly becoming one of the most important of the Congou sorts, the quality of the choicer grades being especially good, rivalling the finest Ning-chows, particularly when the crop is good.
Kee-mun—Is another of the newest descriptions of China Congou teas, possessing many of the characteristics of Kin-tuck, to which it is closely allied. The dried leaf varies considerably in style and appearance, some lots having an evenly-curled and handsome leaf, while others again are brownish and irregular; some of the earlier pickings possess a peculiar flavor termed “chocolate,” for which they are much prized.
Kiu-kiang—Comes from Hohow, one of the most northern of the Moning districts, the quality of the finest first pickings being simply superb. The dry leaf, is black, uniform and free from dust, while the infused leaf is bright-brown and very regular; but, with all these advantages, they are lacking in strength or “snap” and consequently are not of such value as their character on first appearance would seem to indicate. They deteriorate very rapidly, more so than any other of this variety, and while the medium grades are a little fuller in body, from the highest to the lowest the same want of strength is found.
Panyong—Is an exceedingly black, “silky” and stylish leaf tea, rich, strong and mellow in the cup. The finer grades corresponding in value and quality with those of the same grades of Ning-chow, for which kind it may be freely substituted in any emergency.
Hapyongs—Are medium in size, fairly made and pleasing in the hand, heavy, dark, smooth and fragrant in the cup. While the infused leaf is dark, regular and uniform, it is liable to be coarse and dark.