Tea, its history and mystery

by Joseph M. Walsh

Padrae-Pouchong—Is a medium-sized leaf, exceedingly black in color and well folded. The liquor is dark, full, round and aromatic in flavor, but light and thin in body.

Canton Scented Teas—Known to trade as Congee—“Lic” or “made teas,” to a large extent being purchased in the natural state, converted into Capers and Pekoes at will, and doctored or scented up to a certain standard by contract. They are much higher scented than Foochows, but lacking in the properties of true tea, less pungent in liquor and devoid of character or flavor.

Macao Scented Teas—Known also as “New district,” are closely allied to Cantons in make, appearance and character of scent. The dry leaf is somewhat larger and darker in color, the flavor being dull and peculiar in the infusion.

The fragrance of Scented teas is not, as is generally supposed, natural to them, but imparted by the admixture of the flowers, blossoms, leaves, or oils extracted from the seeds or roots of other plants, such as the Orange, Jessamine, Chlorantus, Gardenia, and Oleo-fragrans. The leaves and blossoms of the Iris, Curcunia, and oil of Bixa orelana being also extensively used. In some districts the scenting material is added to the tea during the firing process, and afterwards separated by sifting. It is, however, more generally introduced into the tea after it is prepared and ready for packing; one pound of leaves or blossoms being the usual proportion to each hundred pounds of tea. They are spread over the top of the tea in the chest and allowed to remain for at least a day, or until it becomes strongly impregnated by absorbing their moisture, and then removed, the duration depending on the character of the scenting employed, the scent increasing after the tea is packed for export. But though scenting in general is supposed to be confined to the choicer grades of tea it is as often applied to the inferior sorts, with the object of disguising or concealing their defective or damaged condition, and imparting a pleasant odor, a much larger quantity being used in the latter. The scenting greatly modifies and improves the flavor, however, without adding any pernicious or deleterious substance to the tea.

Consumers not accustomed to using these varieties erroneously imagine, from the dark color of the leaf and liquor, that they are much stronger and more exciting than that of the Oolong or Green tea sorts. While the contrary is the case, it requiring one-third more leaf of corresponding quality to yield an infusion of equal strength than of Oolong or Green tea sorts. The “smoky” and “tarry” flavors possessed by many of them, and for which this variety is so remarkable, is due in a great measure to the use of ill-made charcoal in firing and the use of soft woods containing tar or pitch, such as fir and pine, in its preparation. The worst feature about which is that this “smokiness” and “tarriness” does not develop until long after the teas have left China, and are offered for sale. It is also a noticeable fact that certain waters serve to bring out these peculiarities more prominently than others, American waters in particular.

OTHER CHINESE VARIETIES.

Besides these numerous ordinary teas of commerce, there are several other varieties cultivated in China, but principally for home consumption and rarely if ever exported, among which may be mentioned:—

Suen-cha—Or “Sweet tea,” made from the leaves of a slender shrub growing in the western province of Sze-chuan, and peculiar only to that section. The leaf is large, thick and odorless in the green or natural state, but when cured exhales a rare and peculiar odor, and possesses a sweet, liquorice-like taste in the infusion, not altogether pleasant.

Peh-Yuen-cha—Or “White cloud tea,” prepared from another rare species of the tea shrub found near the summit of Mount Ombei in the same province and most dissimilar in character and flavor from that of the regular teas of commerce. It yields an aromatic infusion, peculiar but palatable, and is chiefly used by pilgrims and travelers in that country.

Mandarin Tea—Is still another rare variety, seldom if ever exported, its use being confined to the Mandarins and aristocracy of China. The leaf is exceeding small, dark, crisp and tender, lightly fired and highly scented, commanding as high as fifteen dollars per pound in the home market.