Tea, its history and mystery

by Joseph M. Walsh

The chief and only advantages that India and Ceylon teas possess over those of China and Japan are their great strength and thickness in the cup, which are due mainly to the modern methods of fermentation and firing by steam and machinery. China and Japan teas excel them in flavor and aroma, occupying in regard to them a position analogous to that of French wines, in comparison with those of other countries. The product of the latter may be stronger and heavier in body, but for richness of flavor and delicacy of aroma—essential qualities in both wine and tea—the French grape and China tea-leaf stand alone and unrivalled for their intrinsic merits, as well as for their being the only true teas, in all that constitutes tea. Broadly stated, the predominant features of India and Ceylon teas are body and strength, those of China and Japan flavor and aroma.

There is also this difference between them, that while a given quantity of India and Ceylon teas will yield a larger amount of a darker-colored liquor and stronger in flavor than that of a similar quantity of China and Japan, they still lack the richness and delicacy of the latter, if not indeed the properties of a true tea altogether. Again, as to how much liquor an equal quantity of the former will yield in comparison with a similar weight of the latter, is another mooted question. As far as quantity, color and body are concerned, it must be admitted that India and Ceylon teas are once and a half greater. But in flavor and aroma, the essential qualities that constitute and are most appreciated in tea, China and Japan teas far excel them. Thus if one pound of China or Japan teas yields five gallons of extract of a certain weight, strength and color, one pound of India or Ceylon will produce seven and a half gallons of a similar beverage, but will be devoid of that fragrant flavor and rich aroma so characteristic of the China and Japan product. The value of tea, intrinsically and commercially, depending principally upon the character and flavor of the infusion, as well as the aroma imparted to it by the volatile oil.

Ceylon, like India teas, will not keep as long or as well as either China or Japan, becoming sour and rancid by exposure in a few months, defects attributed to the method of curing, but in reality inherent in them. Again the latter contain a larger percentage of the active principle (theine) and less of the astringent property (tannin), and are consequently less injurious and more refreshing. The great excess of the latter property in both India and Ceylon teas accounting for their dark color, and harsh, pungent taste in the infusion, as well as being the unsuspected cause of the indigestion and nervousness among those who use them to any extent. So that in view of the strenuous efforts now made to introduce India and Ceylon teas into the American market, it may be well to here caution consumers against their injurious and deleterious effects on the human system, such injury being caused, not alone by the excess of tannin, but also by the sap or juice of the natural leaf not being sufficiently expressed before the leaves are fired by proper fermentation. It being claimed by physicians and others that to the fixed and general use of these teas in England is attributable the great increase of heart-burn, flatulency, nervousness and dyspepsia among the people of that country.

Against the dubious and questionable advantages of body and strength so loudly vaunted in India and Ceylon teas, China and Japan possess others—greater and more important ones—among which are that the tea-grower in the latter countries working his own land in smaller quantities brings greater care and more industry to the task. Again in the methods of curing and firing the leaf, the latter have also the advantage of superiority, as it is now generally admitted by experts and others interested in the business that though the “Sirocco” or hot-air process may be more rapid in its work and certain not to taint the leaves in any way, it is yet open to doubt whether the older, slower, and more natural method of firing in pans over charcoal fires is not the better, more thorough and effective in its results than the new and artificial one. The Chinese and Japanese have been curing and firing teas by that method for centuries, and they surely ought to be the best judges by this time. To sum up, India and Ceylon may produce stronger and more powerful teas if that can be called a recommendation, but for smoothness of liquor, richness and delicacy of flavor, such as are essential to every-day, universal consumption, the China tea-leaf and French grape stand and will continue to stand unrivalled. India and Ceylon may claim to be the teas of to-day, but it remains to be seen whether that day be long or short, as in my humble opinion, without laying any claim to the prophetic, the teas of the future as in the past will be China and Japan teas.

JAVA TEAS.

Tea culture was introduced to the Island of Java in 1826, the seeds and plants being obtained from Japan for the purpose. The plants having thrived beyond expectation, a plantation of 800 trees was formed the following year in the residency of Buitenzorg, although samples of tea grown elsewhere on the island were shown at an exhibition held in Amsterdam in 1828. Another plantation was subsequently established in the district of Carvet in Preanger, from which its cultivation later extended to Krawang and other residencies in the island. So successful was the progress made that in 1833 the number of trees in the latter residency was returned at more than 500,000. Up to 1842 tea was cultivated in Java exclusively for Government account and under the immediate supervision of its own officials, nearly 14,000,000 trees being in bearing there that year. But the number of laborers required for its cultivation and manipulation becoming so large, the supervision so difficult, and the results so unsatisfactory, the Government was eventually compelled to relinquish many of its plantations to private parties, contracting at the same time to purchase their product at a fixed price. This change proved beneficial, resulting in a still further extension and improvement in its culture; the contracts with the Government being entirely annulled after seven years’ trial, and the industry being left to private energy and capital, without control or interference, it soon developed to large proportions.

In Java the best teas are grown at an elevation ranging from 3,000 to 4,000 feet above sea-level, the finest being produced on the mountain slopes, in the residencies of Preanger, Bagelen and Banjœmas. Nothing could be more attractive than the plantations situated on these ranges, each containing from 70,000 to 100,000 plants in perennial bloom and giving employment to from twenty-five to thirty families of native laborers. The methods of cultivation and preparation are much the same as in Japan, though latterly the India system is being largely adopted, both Black and Green teas being prepared at will from the leaf of the same plants. The seeds are first sown in nurseries, from which the young plants, when old enough, are set out in line, at a uniform distance of four feet from each other. The trees are never allowed to exceed two and a half feet in height, and are much more prolific than either the China or India species, the leaves being picked from them all the year round. They are known to commerce under the appellations of “Preangers,” “Krawangs,” “Cheribons,” “Bagelens” and “Banjœmas” teas, and usually converted into Pekoe, Souchong, Pekoe-Souchong, Congous, Oolongs and Imperials, Broken-leaf and Siftings after the India and Ceylon manner. The leaves for the different “makes” are sorted during picking and graded according to size, the smallest and tenderest being converted into Pekoe, the medium size into Souchongs, and the largest and oldest into Congous, Oolongs, Imperials and Broken-leaf teas.

Java Pekoe—Is a small, jet-black leaf, lightly tipped with yellowish ends. The liquor is extremely dark, almost black in color, heavy and thick in body, bitter and astringent in flavor, and entirely unsuited to the average taste.

Java Souchongs—Are composed of the older and coarser leaves of the tea-plant. They are bold in style, black in color, dark in draw, thick in body, and exceedingly strong in flavor, too much so to use alone.

Pekoe-Souchongs—Comprise the older and coarser leaves of the respective pickings, considered too large for conversion into Pekoe and too small for Souchong, possessing the same characteristics in draw and drink of both the latter varieties.