CHAPTER VII.
TESTING, BLENDING
AND
PREPARING.
There is no article handled by the grocer which engages more of his time, demands greater attention, or has a more important bearing upon the success of his business than Tea. In many respects it stands ahead of all other commodities in commanding and maintaining patronage, also in that it is expected to attract and retain trade for other articles, and at the same time yield a larger margin of profit. As gain is the fundamental object of business, and as Tea plays such an essential part in determining this profit, we may be excused if, considering the article from a purely practical standpoint, we urge the relation which it bears to the success of the dealer in it, and who, as a rule, experience more difficulty in the selection of Tea than in any other article he trades in. The cause is obvious, being due to the numerous varieties and almost innumerable grades, characters and flavors with which he is confronted, and to be selected from, taken in connection with the diversity of tastes and preferences to be catered to, it requiring no ordinary skill or knowledge to make the proper selection under these circumstances to suit patrons. The acquisition of such knowledge, for all practical purposes, is not, however, quite as difficult as many may suppose, as it can be fairly obtained by a little study, a few simple and inexpensive experiments and repeated trials to familiarize oneself with the leading characteristics and values of the different varieties, grades and flavors of the teas best adapted to each particular class or section of the country.
Teas have two values—an Intrinsic or real value, and a Commercial or market value; quality, strength and flavor constituting the first, the latter being more often based on style, appearance, supply and fluctuations in price. So that in their selection for commercial purposes four leading features are to be considered—Leaf, Style, Liquor and Flavor. The drawing and drinking qualities of the tea in the cup are paramount to the style and appearance of the leaf in the hand, as many teas, though rough-looking and coarse in “make” or style, draw and drink well in the infusion. There are five principal methods of testing the merits of a tea:—
By Style or Appearance.—Which, though not invariably an indication of merit, has still considerable to do with the value and quality of a tea. Choice teas of all kinds are however, handsomely made and stylish in appearance, that is, compactly if not artistically curled, twisted, folded or rolled, according to its make, and all teas being small and fine in proportion to their youth and tenderness, the ripest and most “sappy” curling up tightest and retaining their form longest, consequently the younger and fresher the leaves the richer, more juicy and succulent the tea. If it be Green tea of the Imperial or Gunpowder order the leaf is hard-rolled and “shotty,” regular in make, bright natural green in color, very uniform and pleasing in general appearance. But if of the Hyson or Young Hyson sorts, the leaf will be well and evenly curled or twisted, the latter being almost “wirey” in texture and of the same hue as the former. If Black, of the Oolong or Congou variety, the leaf will be finely made, “silky” or “crapy” in texture and varying in size from small to medium, artistically twisted and attractive to the eye. Old and inferior teas, on the other hand, will be large, rough and loosely rolled or curled, in proportion to their age, quality and picking, and being partially or entirely devoid of “sap” or succulence, they are correspondingly thin, coarse or flavorless in the infused state.
By Feeling.—Judging a sample of tea by feeling is applicable more to the curled, twisted or rolled sorts, such as Oolongs, Congous, Souchongs and Hyson teas. If the leaves of a tea of these makes, so tested, be really choice they will be found smooth, crisp and elastic in the hand, and capable of resisting a gentle but firm pressure, yielding rather than snapping or breaking under it. But if old and “sapless,” they will be found rough and “chaffy” to the touch, very brittle, cracking easily and crumbling under the same conditions, making much dust.
By Smelling.—By blowing or breathing hard upon a sample of tea and then quickly catching the odor emitted from it a fair estimate of its general character and value may be arrived at. To judge by this method, however, an acquaintance with the distinctive flavors and peculiarities of the various sorts and grades will be first necessary. This knowledge is best acquired by adopting as a type or “standard” a sample of the tea to be matched and educating this sense to its flavor and aroma. It is not for a moment claimed that this test will be at all times accurate or reliable, and only a general estimate can be formed, especially if suffering from a cold, in which case its true character or value cannot be even approximated. Again, many teas that may be “new and nosey” in the hand will be “thin and flat” in the cup, the “flashy” or evanescent flavor passing off rapidly on infusion.
By Masticating.—A close and almost accurate estimate of the character and value of a tea can be formed by chewing a few of the leaves. With this method a good tea may be recognized by the ready manner in which the leaves almost dissolve in the mouth on slight mastication, becoming quickly reduced to a “pasty” consistency if young, tender and succulent, the “sap” or juice yielded will be abundant, pungent and pleasing to the taste. If of the Green or Japan variety the residue will be of a bright, natural-green color on removal, rich olive-green if Oolong, of a rich reddish-brown tint if Congou and dark-red if India or Ceylon. But if composed of old, inferior, spent or spurious leaves they will be found difficult to masticate, being dry, “chippy,” sapless and tough in texture, yielding little or no juice according to its age and inferiority. Whatever little is expressed being “wild,” “weedy,” “woody,” “herby,” “mousey,” “grassy” or “metallic” and bitterly astringent to the taste, the residue being dark in color, coarse or granulated on removal. This test should not be resorted to only on extreme occasions, as a too frequent chewing of tea-leaves, owing to the tannin in their composition, severely affects the nervous system and ultimately the digestive organs.
By Infusing or Drawing—Is unquestionably the most reliable and satisfactory method of testing or appraising tea, being the one adopted by all brokers, experts and dealers as the most conclusive and least injurious to the system. For this purpose a number of small porcelain cups, scales and half-dime weight is requisite, together with a perfectly clean kettle and freshly distilled or filtered water, briskly boiled. Take the weight of the half-dime of leaves and mark the cups to correspond with the samples under examination, then pour on the briskly boiling water and allow it to draw from three to five minutes by the watch, first seeing that the cups are thoroughly clean and dry, or, better still, heated or rinsed with boiling water before weighing or putting in the tea, as cups used for drawing other sorts of tea will impart the flavor of those previously tested to the last if not properly washed and dried before using again; also see that the water is briskly boiling before pouring it on the leaves, as water not properly boiling will cause the leaves to float. If large cups are used the quantity of leaves should be increased proportionately, say to that of a dime in weight for an ordinary tea-cup. It is customary with some brokers and tea-testers to cover the cups with a lid or saucer during infusion, but this precaution is not absolutely necessary; still it has its benefits, as it prevents the vapor and aroma from escaping, both valuable factors in the exact testing of tea. The water used should be as soft and pure as can be obtained; boiled briskly and used only at the boiling point. That is, it must boil, but not overboil, for if it be allowed to do so for even a few minutes it will not extract the full strength and flavor of the leaves. Expert tea-testers are most particular in this respect, watching their kettles so that the water may be used the minute it boils, and if any water remains in the kettle it is poured off and refilled with fresh water before using again, as the effect of using water that has been boiled a second time is the same as that of water which has been overboiled. In testing teas by infusing or drawing five important points are to be considered: Body, Color, Strength, Flavor and Aroma of the Liquor, the tea combining these qualities in the highest degree proving, of course, the best. On removing the lids, if used, inhale the vapor slowly, noting its aroma at the same time; next stir the leaves gently with a spoon for a few minutes, and smell them occasionally, also noting their odor; by which time the tea will be cool enough to taste. Before doing so, however, observe the color of the liquor—an important factor in tea—a rich straw, golden or corn-yellow colored liquor, generally, if not invariably, indicating a tea of fine quality, except it be of the Congou, India or Ceylon variety. Next, taste the tea by sipping it so as to strike the palate, but do not swallow, as it kills the taste, and noting its body, flavor, strength and pungency while so doing, comparing it with the tea required or to be “matched.”
But while a clear, bright, sparkling liquor denotes a fine tea it does not always determine its body or strength, as many light-liquored teas are full and round in body, pungent and “snappy;” others again, though dark and heavy in liquor, are yet devoid of strength and flavor, the liquor of old and inferior teas being invariably dark, thick or “muddy” in color, and lacking in briskness and flavor. After an opinion has been formed of the liquor in all its relations, next examine the infused leaves with regard to their size, color, form, texture and condition, as all these points have an indirect bearing on the age, quality, character and value of the tea under examination. The infused leaves of fine, pure teas range from small to medium in size, perfect or nearly so in shape, regular and symmetrical in form, uniform and unbroken in appearance. While the infused leaf of low-grade and adulterated teas is large and dark-red or brown in color, broken, irregular and different in size, form and color from the true tea-leaf. The smaller, brighter and more symmetrical the infused leaf, the higher the grade, and consequently the greater the value of the tea, that of fine Oolongs being olive-green, with slightly brown or “burnt” edges, Congous and Souchongs rich reddish-brown, India and Ceylons, “salmony-red.” Scented teas possessing a small olive-green infused leaf. In Green teas those yielding a bright, sparkling, “amber”-colored liquor, with small or medium infused leaf and presenting an unbroken and uniform appearance are the best; the same rules that govern in the selection of Green teas also applying to Japans.