It is strange that nothing is ever done in this country by dealers to attempt to educate or enlighten their customers how to properly prepare their tea, study the water or preserve its aromatic properties after purchasing, seeing, as they must, how little the art is understood in this country particularly. Good tea can be kept intact, like good wine, for years with considerable advantage to both dealer and consumer alike, and there is no valid reason why consumers of tea should not be as particular and fastidious as buyers of wine. But to obtain good tea in the first place the consumer should purchase only the best, it requiring much less of the finer grades to make a good infusion—purchasing only from the most reputable dealers, those who know or study to understand their business. As a nation, the American people want the best of everything, or, as they characteristically express it, “the best is good enough for them,” and they intend to have it if money can purchase it. But of what avail is the best—tea for instance—if it be not prepared properly or in such a manner as to develop and secure its more delicate, subtle, volatile, refreshing and exhilarating properties. A country that expends annually upwards of sixteen millions of dollars on this commodity alone ought to devote a little more time and trouble in studying the best methods of preparing it and in extracting its most desirable and fragrant qualities.
Tea may be made depressing and injurious, or exhilarating and wholesome, according to the manner in which it is treated and prepared for use. Many who imagine that a high, dark-colored liquor indicates strength, boil the leaves, while others, again, spoil the tea by putting the leaves into the boiling water, some people putting the leaves in cold water and then placing the vessel over the fire to boil, prolonged infusion being still another serious mistake. All of these methods produce the same evil results—that of extracting an increased amount of the tannic acid—thereby destroying the flavor of the tea by giving it a bitter and astringent taste as well as imparting an almost ink-black color to the infusion.
The falsely economical custom of filling the tea-pot a second time without removing the exhausted leaves is another error in the making of tea, as the theine which is only soluble in fresh-boiled water, is wholly extracted in the first drawing and cannot for this reason be present in the second, the latter being merely a decoction composed chiefly of tannin. To avoid this error a sufficient quantity of tea should be made in the first drawing or fresh leaves supplied as needed. And still another reprehensible practice is that of adding fresh leaves to those that have already been used once, it being utterly impossible to add either to the strength or flavor of tea by putting more leaves in the tea-pot after the first drawing, for the reason that tea-water will not extract the active principle—theine—from the dry leaves of fresh tea; only fresh boiling water will do this. The use of tea-water simply increases the amount of tannin, darkens the color, destroys the flavor and only adds to the quantity of leaves already in the pot without in the least affecting the active principle, so that if it be necessary to increase the strength of the tea prepared, draw some fresh leaves in a separate vessel and add the liquor to that already made.
Tea being an infusion, not a decoction, it should be brewed, not stewed, the object being to extract as much of the theine or refreshing principle and as little of the tannin or astringent property as possible, without, at the same time, either boiling or overdrawing. So that in the proper preparation of tea for use, the aim and object should be to extract as little of the tannin as possible and as much of the theine and volatile oil as can be conveniently extracted without permitting the infusion to boil, to obtain which most desirable result the following general rules are recommended: Put the requisite quantity of leaves in a covered china or earthenware vessel—avoid tin or metal of any kind, even silver—then pour on fresh, briskly-boiling water and let stand where it will keep hot without boiling from seven to ten minutes according to the variety of tea used. In this time, while the tea is drawing, only the refreshing and stimulating principles (theine and volatile) are extracted from the leaves. Boiling or prolonged infusion dissolves and brings out the astringent principle (tannin) which injures the nerves and impairs digestion, for which reason no tea that has been either boiled or overdrawn is fit to drink. When tea has been boiled or overdrawn it can be readily detected by the exceedingly dark color of the liquor, as well as by its bitter and astringent flavor.
To insure a really good “cup of tea” the kettle must be filled with fresh water—if distilled the better—and boiled for about three minutes; there will be a sparkle about tea made with fresh-boiled water that it cannot receive from flat, hot water, which has been boiled long or repeatedly. For moderate strength it requires one heaping teaspoonful of good tea to each half-pint of boiling water or an ordinary tea-cup half-full to a quart of water will make a sufficiently strong infusion for five persons. No metal vessel, not even one of silver, is fit to make tea in, nothing being better adapted for the purpose than the old-fashioned tea-pot of heavy, glazed, brown earthenware, covered with a tea-cosy—a tufted cushion, cap-shaped, which envelopes the tea-pot, keeping the tea warm and the aroma from escaping. This vessel must be first “scalded” and set on the range to dry and keep hot, after which the tea is put in and allowed to heat for a few minutes before the boiling water is poured on the leaves, and the infusion allowed to draw or “brew” from five to ten minutes according to the variety of tea under treatment.
India and Ceylon teas are usually “drawn” in five minutes, longer infusion, owing to their great excess of tannin, making them still more bitter and astringent than they naturally are under ordinary conditions. The addition of extra quantities of milk and sugar, however, greatly modifies their great strength, sharp pungency and pronounced flavor. China Green and Japan teas require from six to eight minutes to “draw” thoroughly, while China Oolongs are best at from eight to ten. China Congous yielding lower percentages of tannin than most other varieties, the time allowed should be longer than ten minutes if a full yield of their best properties should be desired. They will also be found more suitable to temperaments to which teas containing larger quantities of tannin are found injurious or objectionable. China teas in general do not require much milk or sugar, while Japans are more pleasing and palatable without the addition of either.
Everything should be clean, the water fresh and the tea drawn at a specific heat, to insure which requires a brisk fire or gas heat, and different treatment according to the season of the year. Care should be taken that the water boils, it being much better to let it boil for a few minutes than use it under the boiling point. In winter the vessel should be made hot and the leaves heated in it before the water is poured on, for about a minute, while in summer the tea-pot need not be heated or the water poured on while boiling, but should be allowed to cease for a few seconds, more or less, according to the heat of the day. It is also a needless operation to pour a small quantity of water on the tea for a preliminary drawing, as is frequently done. Always fill the tea-pot, or pour in at once the quantity required, but for the more temperate seasons a modification of these methods may be adopted. The longest time that any tea should be allowed to steep is from five to ten minutes. As soon as it has been steeped this length of time, at the outside, it should be served. Even if it is allowed to remain on the stove a few minutes after this time it will be ruined.
The character of the water used greatly influences the liquor and flavor of the tea. Soft water should always be used when available, it being next to impossible to make good tea with hard water. Excess of lime in the water also deteriorates the infusion, the last difficulty may, however, be remedied by the judicious use of carbonate of soda, as much as would cover the face of a dime being sufficient for an ordinary drawing of tea.
Tea being an extremely delicate and sensitive article, it should be protected from all foul and foreign flavors, its susceptibility to the odors of other articles being a source of danger and deterioration, as it readily absorbs the smell of coffee, cocoa, spices, meats, fish and other commodities of pronounced flavor. Even when securely packed in the lead-lined chests in which it is received from the producing countries, the change from the glowing heat of Eastern skies to our atmosphere deprives it of much of its pleasing fragrance. For this reason the complaints so frequently made would not arise if always kept in places free from contagion or stored in a dry, warm temperature and not exposed to atmospheric influences.