Journeying from Betafo to the Capital, we paid a brief visit to the mission at Másinandráina; skirted the little lake of Iraikiba, the scene of a local legend of the Hero and Leander type; exhibited the bubbling well to our astonished bearers; and a second time enjoyed the hospitality of Mr. and Mrs. Rosaas at Sirabé. Thence we journeyed east over new ground to the broad level valley of the Lávadráno, “hollows with water;” and received a kind welcome from Mr. and Mrs. Nilsen at Lóharáno. With Mr. Nilsen, we climbed Votovorona, and from the summit carefully surveyed the country on all sides. The clear view furnished us with several connecting links of great value to the lists of observations taken hitherto. We saw far to the south the hill overhanging Ambositra: we saw Ivohibe to the west; and to the north had several lofty hills of known position a few miles south of the Capital. Votovorona is a noble conical hill, of most striking appearance. It is 844 feet in height, and stands on a broad base, 900 feet across. The base is gneiss: the cone proper is of lava rocks; one stone of which was clinkstone with a decided metallic ring. From Votovorona we had a clear view of several horse-shoe craters on the neighbouring moor: and the long valley of the Lavadrano was beneath us in all its length and breadth. The great granite mass of Ibety, south of Sirabe, towered high over the country.
From this point to the capital, travelling was comparatively easy. We were on the high plateau of Imerina. A single journey on the Saturday along the western side of the plain took us across the river Elaborona (“bird’s wing”) just where it joins the Onibe: and led us comfortably to Ankisitra. Here we rested for the Sunday and had a fresh opportunity of observing the ignorance of our country congregations at a distance, their perseverance in maintaining worship, and their willingness to receive instruction. In all this part of the country we saw no population. Next day we slept in the chapel at Andraráty, at the foot of the great peaks of Ankárat. We took valuable observations from lofty hills: but for two days the weather baffled our attempt to climb the highest, Tsi-áfa-závona: and we were compelled to give it up. Crossing the lava tongues and ridges, at Miantsoarivo, we fell into our former track on starting for the Betsileo. Again we passed along the waters of the Katsáoka (here called the Berimo) and of the Andromba issuing fresh from the lava; and reached the thick clusters of villages in South Imerina. Again we visited Ambátomaláza, with its grand turtle-head rock. We had completed the circle of Ankárat, had enclosed this great mass of mountains within a ring of observations, connected point by point. We had seen and visited the population that drink of its waters. On Thursday, May 7th, a little after noon, we reached Antananarivo once more, wearied, but safe and well.
A few days after we set out to pay a brief visit to the town of Ambohiveloma, which has been selected as a station for the residence of an English missionary in Western Imerina. The place is situated at the distance of a long day’s journey from the Capital. Having crossed the Ikopa and rounded the great hill and island of Ambóhitramanjáka, so prominent in the landscape of Imerina, we rested at the next village of Anósimanjáka, to give the men breakfast. And here we met with a singular reception. Mr. Pillans and I were alone; there was no interpreter to help us in our intercourse with the people. Putting up in a handsome new chapel, not yet finished, the elders of the village came to pay their respects: the chapel mats were speedily spread, and things were put in preparation. We were strangers to these village elders: they knew that we had come across the sea to visit the native churches: but they had heard rumours that we were addicted to strange proceedings, which they did not understand, and concerning which they had received no instructions either from political or ecclesiastical authorities. They were evidently afraid of us: they were therefore courteous but reserved. After a few inquiries about things in general, whence we had come and whither we were going, the reason came out. “In travelling about, do you not take pictures?” “Yes, we have made many pictures.” “Do you not write down the country and the churches?” “Yes, we do.” They looked very serious over these confessions: and eventually the oldest goose in the village and two little pots of rice were deemed a fitting present for such very suspicious visitors.
Going on our way we had to cross the Andromba, now a strong stream, eight or ten feet deep and sixty yards wide, bearing the waters of the Kátsáoka as well as its own. Bridges are unknown in Madagascar over such streams, and we must cross in a canoe. The only canoe available was a narrow thing, with a big hole in it, stopped up with lumps of turf, and leaking considerably. Besides there was not a single paddle to propel it. What matter? Some luggage and a few bearers were put into the gallant bark: and the ferryman rowed them over with his legs, using first the right foot and then the left, that the resultant might be a right line! The party landed safe: and in due time we followed. An efficient paddle would have cost that genius one farthing.
Passing well to the north of Antongona and Ambohitrambo, we kept up a long level valley, south of a fine hill that was new to us, Ambóhimanáha. Again we crossed our old friend the Ombifotsy, and in due time came near the Anonibe. We reached our destination just at sunset.
Ambohiveloma is a country town of unusually striking appearance. It is situated on the top of a clay hill, 450 feet above the rice plain: the hill slopes up rapidly and is deeply scored with ditches and gullies once relied on as fortifications. The town contains a hundred houses. Two large and well-built houses stand at the top of the town, which belong to the principal family in the place, and near them are the family tombs. Indeed the tombs are royal, one of the old kings of the district being buried here. There are other houses about, enclosing plenty of space: and the hill is covered with trees. The chapel is rather a small building, unworthy of the place and people: but that defect will soon be remedied. We found in it a school of thirty-five children. It has been arranged that the missionaries coming to occupy Ambohiveloma shall rearrange these two principal houses, and reside in them while the permanent English house is being built, on the northern slope of the hill.
Ambohiveloma is surrounded by fertile rice valleys well supplied with water. It is therefore the centre of a large population; villages and hamlets are seen in all directions on the little terraces of the hills above the fields. A hundred such are found within a few miles and some of the villages are large. Beyond these villages on all sides the population is thin; even on the east as well as north and south. And as the ancient kingdom that was established here stood isolated from others, so the new Mission district about to be arranged for, will have a sphere of its own and be to a considerable extent separated from others. Nevertheless it has the prospect of much usefulness.
On the following day we ascended a lofty hill, named Ambóhimaláza, four miles to the south-west of Ambohiveloma: and had a fine view of this western part of Imerina. We stood in a new position just between districts, to the south and north, over which we had slowly travelled. Many of our great landmarks were in sight and were distinctly seen in the clear air. Lohavohitra to the north: Ambohimiangára to the south-west: Tsiafakáfo and the peaks of Ankárat: Ambohimanáha, and others even more distant, were prominent points in the outstretched landscape. We saw also two noble granite masses in the north-west, Ambohitrondrona and Antáramánana, which have lofty serrated peaks and resemble in many respects the granite ridges of the Vava Vato and of Ibety.
During the day we observed many beautiful butterflies about the hill: and several were brought to us by the children, pinned to a small stick by a thorn. They were beautifully marked with green and black and gold. The day closed with one of the finest sunsets I have seen in the East. As we stood on the platform at the top of the hill, we had an immense territory under our eyes. The whole was lighted up by the departing sun with a gorgeousness and splendour indescribable. The colour of the whole was a rich golden red. Every hill and valley, high and low, was bathed in the glowing radiance, which seemed not of earth but of heaven.
