Twelve months in Madagascar

by Joseph Mullens

We observed that the house in which we dined was unusually large and substantial: and Mr. Sibree kindly pointed out to us those peculiarities, which proved it to be fashioned not after the Hova system, but after that of the Betsimisárakas. The Hova house has one post at each end and one in the centre: it has one door and one window on the west side; the bed-stead is fixed in the north-east corner; and the hearth is in the north-west corner, with a two-storied frame, covered with soot, on which the cooking pots are usually laid. Our present house had three well carved posts in the centre and at each end: the west side of the house had two doors; there was a window in the north-east, the bed-stead was in the south-east, and the fire and the saucepan-frame were in the south-west: the floor was nicely covered with very fine mats. We saw many such houses in the province: and in them all is still preserved the traditionary use of wood. Even in the Capital, the erection of brick houses, within the city-proper, only dates back a few years.

Having taken a few observations, we proceeded ten miles to the southward, in order to round the great swamp, which was now on our right hand and impassable except by strong canoes. We crossed in succession the ends of the ridges over which we had passed two days before, and had conspicuous before us our noble observing hill, Ambohiborona. The little rivers between the ridges were shallow and sandy. Under Ambohiborona we came to the village of Manákambahiny, where a little congregation awaited us, and offered us their welcome and a present. Beyond this village we got into one of the arms of the swamp; and now saw what noble reeds grow in it. The zozóro papyrus, with its triangular stalk was very fine and very tall: the flat hérena also grew luxuriantly: the colour of both was a rich, strong green. Our journey ended at the village of Ambódinónoka, on the northern edge of Ankay.

Here a curious scene took place. The elders of the village, with a fine old judge at their head, had made their little speech; had thanked their “friends over the sea” for sending us to visit them; and had offered us their hospitable present; but none of our bearers were at hand; and when we called them to take the beef and rice away, they declined to come. On inquiry we found that they were in the sulks and were holding an indignation-meeting, to protest against the ill treatment they were suffering at our hands. Asking for particulars, we were informed that they had two grievances; first, three days ago, we had continued our journey a whole quarter of an hour after sunset; (we had not reached the village;) and secondly, we had publicly reproved them to-day, because they had taken up the geese offered as presents. We replied that we were astonished at their impudence; that they had greatly disgraced us to-day, by greedily seizing the birds and the rice, even before the hospitable people had formally offered them to ourselves. They might sulk if they pleased; we should give them no beef or rice this evening; we should give the whole of it to the poor of the village: which we did. A moderate supper at their own expense, followed by a placid night, restored their moral tone; and the next day, they did a good day’s work with energy and spirit. What a petulant set of children they were!

On Saturday our journey was long; we started very early and were nine hours and a half in the palankin. Again and again we went down into the swamps; crossed a river with a curious name, “that which a girl cannot pass”; came close under the western hills of Ankay, covered with forest; and enjoyed a pleasant midday rest at the fine village of Ambohitromby, or “ox-town.” The swamp was difficult to traverse to-day. The zozoro was very tall, strong and green: the herena, with its flat blade, was often six feet long: and the via, the beautiful Arum lily, the Astrapœa Wallichi, with its huge well-crimped leaves, was here in abundance. We had also a few rofia palms. At times the ground was lumpy; then we had swamp; then soft clay; we went round the edge of the reedy forest or forced our way through it. Now some men stuck fast with the luggage, then others. One spot was all but impassable. The water was deep: the men beat down the stalks of the reeds; and staggered over the slippery bridge as they best could. In another there was a single plank; and our palankins were carried over with but one man at each end: the firmness and steadiness with which they moved forward were wonderful: and we all passed without accident.

This great swamp covers altogether an area of over six hundred square miles: It has many arms running up into the hills on every side: and on its north-east side is the clear lake of Alaotra. It lies at the north end of Ankay; and receives the drainage of a vast district on the south-east: the hills in that direction are peculiarly sandy and friable: waterspouts and storms have wrought havoc among them, and all the silt has been carried into the Sihánaka level. The only exit for the waters is on the north-east: and here the ravine is narrow and rocks bar the way. The waters are retained at a high level; and the sediment washed down is buried beneath them. Long tongues and fingers of clay project into the reed-covered reservoir; and a few hills stand out like islands in the deep green sea. Imerina must once have been what this great province now is: it has still the remains of the ancient swamps and forests of reeds. And Imerina is now, what in due time the Sihánaka will become, a magnificent rice plain, with its rivers embanked and bridged, with smiling villages on every side, feeding myriads of Christian people, living in peace.

Ambohitromby is a good village of ninety houses, on a round hill: with abundance of geese and fowls; and having large herds of cattle in its neighbourhood. We had a most pleasant meeting with its people. The little chapel was crowded and many present were Sihánaka. Again we examined all the scholars, and Mr. Sibree gave the people an address. We were objects of great curiosity to them all, but especially to the women, who had probably never seen an Englishman before.

We now had a long journey before us: but it was for the most part on level ground. We were travelling north, on the main ridge of the district on its west side; and to-day we got over many miles of ground. At times we went through inlets of the swamp which separated the ridges from one another: and then found ourselves on a broad level terrace, along which the men raced and ran with great speed. Parallel to us on the east was another level ridge, running into the swamp from the north-north-west. A large portion of the low level between has been redeemed from the swamp and is being cultivated with rice. Villages were seen here and there with chapels; on the grassy level the cattle were numerous; and the little stacks of rice stood in long lines on the open plain. Close by on the west were great gneiss hills covered with forest: away to the north was the volcanic mass, which overhangs the town of Ampárafárávóla; and across the swamp to the eastward were the red clay ridges, made golden in the warm light of the afternoon sun. It was one of the most pleasant trips we had made in the country.

Late in the afternoon we came to an inlet, which gave passage to a small river flowing from the western hills, and was filled as usual with the zozóro reeds. Across the inlet on the north, was a steep red hill, which had on its summit the old walled village of Ambóhipéno. We noticed that there was a group of people looking for us on the top of the hill: the choir of women was on the east; the school children were on the west, and the elders of the town stood in the centre. As we commenced the ascent of the hill the women and children began to sing: and when we reached the top, the old judge of the district, a man of hearty, genial temper, came forward and shook us warmly by the hand. Recognising us as “messengers of the churches over the sea,” and as “friends of the kingdom,” he gave us a hearty welcome and as usual presented us with some provision for the way. We stayed a few minutes talking with these kind people; and as we could not remain to spend the Sabbath, we promised to return for the afternoon service. They kindly sent our presents on, and after another hour’s run, we arrived just after sunset at Ampárafárávola.

This Hova town is the place of second importance in the Sihánaka province, and is the residence of the Second Commander or Lieutenant Governor. It contains over ninety houses; all included within a double stockade, and not having the order, neatness and finish of the Hova town at Ambátondrazáka. There are many Sihánaka houses scattered about the neighbourhood; and little villages of such we had passed in the rice fields just before our arrival. The Lieut.-Governor and his people all came out to welcome us: they made the usual kind speeches and enquiries: presented us with abundance of beef, fowls and rice, for ourselves and our men; and then expressed serious concern as to our quarters for the night. The governor’s own house was being rebuilt: and the large new chapel outside the stockade, though unfinished, was in posse the most comfortable place of shelter. It had a good roof and solid walls: but the doors and windows were only partitions of reeds. However we erected the tent inside the chapel at one end: fastened the tent carpets over two of the windows; and though, like the cave of Æolus, the place was somewhat draughty, and the mosquitoes were numerous and active, we made ourselves considerably comfortable. How sweet the sleep, even in rough quarters, after those long and weary journeys in the dry, fresh air.

We spent a delightful Sunday with those good people, and saw for ourselves more of the religious life of the district than we had yet done. As soon as the building was in order the congregation assembled. On the rough little table belonging to the church we placed my camera-box; and spread over all a gay, if not gorgeous, rug belonging to Mr. Pillans: it excited great admiration and was thought on all sides to have added dignity to the occasion, henceforth memorable in this town, when three English Missionaries were present at the service. The slaves of several families now brought in the hassocks and cushions, on which the ladies were to sit: and as soon as the governor and his family entered, the place was well filled. We thought there were nearly five hundred people present, of whom a good proportion were Sihánaka. They sang tolerably well: but the tunes had become greatly altered by interpolations, deductions and shakes, and we could only just recognise them. Our chaplain preached the first sermon: and Mr. Sibree the second, both choosing the same text: “This is a faithful saying: that Jesus Christ came into the world to save sinners.” I added a brief address in English (the sound of which greatly interested the people), which was interpreted by Mr. Sibree. We all had but one theme: and the attention manifested throughout our two hours’ service, was gratifying in the extreme. Subsequently Mr. Sibree gathered the singers, gave them some good advice about their singing, and taught them the new tunes which we had brought with us. They took to them most heartily. They sang in the chapel: then they removed to the school-room; with the help of the chaplain they practised all the evening: deep into the night we heard voices proclaiming in Malagasy, “There is a happy land, far, far away”: and as the sun rose the next morning and we set out on our journey once more, the last echoes of the same melody died upon our ears.