CHAPTER XV
MY CAMPING EXPERIENCE IN TOOKTOO VALLEY
Conclusion of the Murder Scare—A Fifteen-mile Walk along the Arctic Shore—Matt my Sole Companion—An Arctic Paradise—A Tramp with an Unpleasant Ending—Twenty-four Hours with Nothing to eat—In the Shadow of the Ice-cliffs—Fording a Glacial River—Safe in Camp again.
Tuesday, July 12. Gibson arrived this morning, minus his sledge and his entire load, having been obliged to abandon them on account of hard traveling. He advises me to go to the head of the bay without delay, as the ice is even now in a bad condition, and each day makes it worse. Ikwa was on the point of starting with a sledge of provisions and bedding, and I decided at once that Matt should accompany him. I shall follow later along the shore. At one P. M. Matt and Ikwa started, with five dogs, one native sledge, and one toboggan. I fully intended to leave after supper, but I found so many things to do that I was too tired to think of walking fifteen miles, and determined to wait until to-morrow. I gave my room a thorough cleaning, and put down my new carpet, washed and did up my bed-curtains, and made things as bright and clean as possible. I hope the little den will look somewhat homelike to Mr. Peary when he comes back. I am afraid this lovely weather will not last much longer; but even if it rains I believe I can be as comfortable in the tent as here at Redcliffe.
Kyo came in to-night and had a long talk with the doctor about the doctor’s threatening to shoot the huskies. He is very much frightened at the doctor’s carrying the revolver. What added to his fright was that we opened the side window this afternoon, Kyo immediately concluding that we intended to fire on the natives from it. I am more than ever convinced that there was nothing in Matt’s “overheard conversation,” and it is certain that all the Eskimos are badly frightened at the display of firearms. Kyo said the doctor might shoot the others, but the bullets would not hurt him; that the “kokoyah” (evil spirit) was kind to him, and he would never die. But if the white man killed the Innuits the kokoyah would, at Kyo’s command, “shad-a-go” (destroy) their vessel, and they would all die. Finally peace was declared, and Kyo brought over his sealskin float, for which he wanted wood to make the ring of his kayak. I am sorry for this episode, which has brought about an unpleasantness with the natives.
Wednesday, July 13. At 2.30 this afternoon, in company with Dr. Cook, I left Redcliffe on my fifteen-mile walk to the head of the bay, which we reached at eight o’clock. Matt and Ikwa, who had preceded us, had a terrible time in getting through. Half the time they were in water above their waists, and occasionally they were obliged to float themselves over on Ikwa’s sealskin float. It was all that Matt could do to persuade Ikwa to continue. It began to rain about ten P. M., and has rained lightly ever since. I fear the doctor did not have a pleasant walk back.
Thursday, July 14. I made a short scout after duck, but saw only a few eiders far out on the ice. How sweet the air is, and how restful the rushing of the streams as they make their way to the shore! I feel the need of rest and quiet, and it is very peaceful here. When the weather clears I shall enjoy the rambles over the soft green moss, I know.
A Garden Spot.—Greenland Moss and Poppies
Friday, July 15. This morning the sun was shining brightly, and had it not been for the mosquitos the day would have been thoroughly enjoyable Matt and I started about nine A. M. to take a look at the country beyond Boat Camp, but I find it will be impossible to cross the glacial river, and yet I must get to Tooktoo Camp before long. After lunch I took my shot-gun and started out in the direction of the hanging glacier, where there are a number of ponds. In one of these I saw two long-tailed ducks, but I could only secure one. The breast gives us one meal, and the rest of the bird stew for another. After supper we took a walk over the hills toward the glacier. The evening was fine, the air sweet, the grass and moss soft, and studded with thousands of flowers. In every direction can be heard either the rushing and roaring of a glacier river, or the rippling and swishing of some tiny stream. The snow-buntings and sandpipers are hopping about and chirping merrily, and the great golden ball is moving slowly along the heavens. The inland ice seems to wear a continual smile, so bright does its surface appear. Does it wish to assure me that all is well with the ones who are traveling on its bosom, or is it only mocking me? I will try to think the former.