Fig. 2103.
Fig. 2104.
From c to d the handle fills the eye, but from d to e it fills the eye lengthways only of the oval. A saw-slot, to receive a wedge, is cut in the handle, as shown in [Fig. 2104]. The wedge is best made of soft wood, which will compress and conform itself to the shape of the slot. To drive the handle into the eye, preparatory to wedging it permanently, it should be placed in the eye held vertically, with the tool head hanging downward, and the upper end struck with a mallet or hammer, which is better than resting the tool head on a block. The wedge should be made longer than will fill the slot, so that its upper end may project well, and the protruding part, which may split or bulge in the driving, may be cut off after the wedge is driven home.
The wedge should be driven first with a mallet and finally with a hammer. After every few blows on the wedge, the tool should be suspended by the handle and the end of the latter struck to keep the handle firmly home in the eye. This is necessary, because driving the wedge in is apt to drive the handle partly out of the eye.
Fig. 2105.
The width of the wedge should equal the full length of the oval at the top of the eye, so that one wedge will spread the handle out to completely fill the eye, as shown in [Fig. 2105]. Metal wedges are not so good as wooden ones, because they have less elasticity and do not so readily conform to the shape of the saw-slot, for which reasons they are more apt to get loose. The taper on the wedge should be regulated to suit the amount of taper in the eye, while the thickness of the wedge should be sufficiently in excess of the width of the saw-cut, added to the taper in the eye, that there will be no danger of the end of the wedge meeting the bottom of the saw-slot.