Fig. 2157.
Fig. 2158.
The cutting end of the chisel should be kept thin, as in that case it cuts both easier and smoother. The total length of a chisel should not when new exceed 8 inches, for if made longer it is not suitable for heavy or smooth chipping, as it will bend and spring under heavy blows, and cannot be held steadily. The forged part should not exceed about 21⁄2 or 3 inches in length, as a long taper greatly conduces to springiness, whereas solidity is of great importance both to rapid and smooth work. The facets forming the cutting edge should be straight in their widths, as at b in [Fig. 2154], and not rounded as at a, so that the face next to the work may form a guide in holding the chisel at the proper angle to maintain the depth of the cut. This angle depends upon the nature of the material to be cut; the facets forming an angle one to the other of about 65° for cast steel and about 50° for gun metal or brass. The more acute these angles the nearer the body of the chisel lies parallel with the work and the more effective the hammer blows. Thus in [Fig. 2155] chisel c is the position of the chisel for wrought iron, and position d is for steel. The angles should always be made, therefore, as acute as the hardness of the material will permit. If they are too acute the cutting edge will be apt to bend in its length, while if not sufficiently acute they will not cut keen enough; hence the object is to make them as acute as possible without causing the cutting edge to bend in its length. For copper and other soft metals the angle may be about 30° or 35°, the chisel end being kept thin so that it may not become wedged between the work and the chipping, which will bend but little, and is, therefore, apt to grip the wedge end of the chisel. The cutting edge should be slightly rounded in its length, which will strengthen it and also enable a fine finishing clip to be taken off, as in [Fig. 2156], the width of the chip not extending fully across the chisel width so that the corners are not under duty and are not, therefore, liable to break, or dig in and prevent smooth chipping. In some practice the edge is made straight in its length, as shown in [Fig. 2149], which is permissible in heavy chipping when a cape chisel has been used, but in any event an edge rounded in its length is preferable. If the edge is hollow in its length, as shown in [Fig. 2157], and magnified in [Fig. 2158], the chip acts as a wedge to force the corners outwards as denoted by the arrows, causing them to break under a heavy cut, and, furthermore, a smooth cut cannot be taken when the corners of the chisel meet the work surface.
Fig. 2159. Fig. 2160.