Each alteration of eccentric position may render necessary an alteration of rod length, or vice versa, each alteration of rod length may render it necessary to alter the eccentric position, hence the lead should be tried at both ends of the cylinder after each alteration of either rod length or eccentric position.
In vertical engines the weight of the crank shaft causes it to wear the bottom brass or part of the bearing box the most, thus lowering its position, while the eccentric straps and pins wear most in the same direction; hence the wear increases the lead at the head end of the cylinder when the latter is above the crank, and at the crank end when the crank is above the cylinder.
When the cylinder is above the crank, the weight of the piston, cross head and connecting rod is counterbalanced at the end of the downward piston stroke by giving the crank end port more lead; but when the cylinder is below the crank, it is the head end port that must be given increased lead to prevent a pound or knock, or to allow for the wear downwards of the parts.
After an engine is started, the pet cocks should (if they are not automatic) be closed as soon as dry steam issues, and if this cannot be seen, it may be assumed to occur after the engine has made about 20 revolutions.
The parts that will then require particular attention are the crank pin, main bearings, cross head guides and the pump, if there is one. The former must be kept properly lubricated, so that they may not get hot and the cylinder lubricator (which is usually placed on the steam pipe) must be set to self feed properly.
If the crank shaft bearings should begin to heat, loosen the cap bolts and lubricate more freely, or, if it is at hand, some melted tallow may be applied with the oil, as a heavier lubricant may stop the heating.
The crank pin requires the most attention and is the most difficult to keep cool and to examine, because of its circular path rendering it difficult to feel it. This may be done, however, in two ways, first by standing at the end of the engine bed and gradually extending the hand, until the end of the rod meets it as it passes, and, second, by placing the hand on the connecting rod as near to the end of the guide bar as possible where its motion is diminished and moving the hand towards the crank pin, by which means the end of the crank pin may be approached gradually.
If the end of the rod is hot, the engine speed should be reduced or the engine should be stopped so that the connecting rod key or wedge may be eased back and the oil feed made more copious. Then, after the engine has been stopped for the night, the brasses should be taken out and any rough surface, either on the brasses or on the pin, smoothed down with a file.
Hot crank pins may occur from several causes, but by far the most common ones are from improper oiling, or from the engine being out of line.
A heavier oil will often stop, or at least modify, the heating, but its cause should always be discovered and remedied.