“As the commission given to me calls for a decision as to the taper of bolts used in locomotive work, it presupposes that taper bolts are a necessity. In our own practice we divide bolts into several classes, and our rule is that in every case where a through bolt can be used it must be used. If we cannot use a through bolt we use a stud, and where a stud cannot be used we put in a tap bolt, and the reason why a tap bolt comes last is because it is part and parcel of the machine itself. There are also black bolts and body bound bolts, the former being put into holes 1⁄16 inch larger than the bolt. It is possible in fastening a machine or locomotive together to use black bolts and body bound bolts. With body bound bolts it is customary for machine builders to use a straight reamer to true the hole, then turn the bolt and fit it into its place. It is held by many locomotive builders that the use of straight bolts is objectionable, on the score that if they are driven in tight there is much difficulty in getting them out, and where they are got out two or three times they become loose, and there is no means of making them tighter.
“There is no difficulty in making two bolts of commercially the same size. But there is a vast difference between absolute accuracy and commercial accuracy. Absolute accuracy is a thing that is not obtainable. What we have to strive for, then, is commercial accuracy. What system can we adopt that will enable workmen of limited capacity to do work that will be practically accurate? The taper bolt for certain purposes presents a very decided advantage. Bolts may be made practically of the same diameter, but holes cannot be made practically of the same diameter. Each one is only an approximation to correctness. We have here an ordinary fluted reamer (showing an excellent specimen of Betts Machine Company’s make). That reamer is intended to produce a straight hole, but having once passed through a hole the reamer will be slightly worn. The next time you pass it through it is a little duller, and every time you pass it through the hole must become smaller. There have been many attempts made to produce a reamer that should be adjustable. That, thanks to the gentlemen who are making such tools a speciality, has added a very useful tool to the machine shop—a reamer where the cutters are put in tapered and can be set up and the reamer enlarged and made to suit the gauge. This will enable us to make and maintain a commercially uniform hole in our work. But the successful use of a reamer of this kind depends upon the drill that precedes this reamer being made as nearly right as possible, so that the reamer will have little work to do. The less you give a reamer to do the longer it will maintain its size.
“The question of tapered bolts involves at once this difficulty: that we have to drill a straight hole, then the tapered reamer must take out all the metal that must be removed in order to convert a straight into a tapered hole. The straight hole is maintained in its size by taking out the least amount of metal. It follows that the tapered reamer would be nearest right which would also take out the least amount of metal.
“Then you come to the question of the shape of the taper. When I was engaged building locomotives in Cincinnati, a great many years ago, we used bolts the taper of which was greater than I shall recommend to you. In regard to the compression that would take place in bolts, no piece of iron can go into another piece of iron without being smaller than the hole into which it is intended to go. If it is in any degree larger, it must compress the piece itself or stretch the material that is round it. So, if you adopt a tapered bolt, you cannot adopt a certain distance that it shall stand out before you begin to drive it, for there will be more material to compress in a large piece than in a small one. Metal is elastic. Within the elastic limit of the metal you may assume the compression to be a spring. In a large bolt you have a long spring, and in a short one you have a short spring. If you drive a half-inch bolt into a large piece of iron, it is the small bolt which you compress; therefore the larger the bolt the more pressure you can give to produce the same result. Hence, if you adopt the taper bolt, you will have to use your own discretion, unless you go into elaborate experiments to show how far the bolt head should be away from the metal when you begin to drive it.
Fig. 1399.
“Certain builders of locomotives put their stub ends together with tapered bolts, but do not use tapered bolts in any other part of the structure. The Baldwin Works use tapered bolts wherever they are body bound bolts. They make a universal taper of 1⁄16 inch to the foot. An inch bolt 12 inches long would be 11⁄16 inches diameter under the head. They make all their bolts under 9 inches long 1⁄16 larger under the head than the name of the bolt implies. Thus a 3⁄4 inch bolt would be 13⁄16 inch under the head, provided it was 9 inches long or under. Anything over 9 inches long is made 1⁄8 inch larger under the head, and still made a taper of 1⁄16 inch to the foot. A locomotive builder informs me that a taper of 1⁄8 inch to the foot is sometimes called for, and the Pennsylvania road calls for 3⁄32 inch to the foot. But the majority of specifications call for 1⁄16 inch to the foot. The advantage of 1⁄16 inch taper lies in the fact that a bolt headed in the ordinary manner can be made to fill the requirements, provided it is made of iron. You may decide that bolts should be tapered, for the reason that when a tapered bolt is driven into its place it can be readily knocked loose, or if that bolt, when in its place, proves to be too loose, you have merely to drive it in a little farther: these are arguments in favor of tapered bolts, showing their advantage. It is easier to repair work that has tapered bolts than work that has straight bolts. If you adopt a tapered bolt, say, with a taper of 1⁄16 inch to the foot, you are going to effect the making of those bolts and the boring of those holes in a commercially accurate manner, so that they can be brought into the interchangeable system. To carry this out, you require some standard to start with, and the simplest system that one can conceive is this: Let us imagine that we have a steel plug and grind it perfectly true. We have the means of determining whether that is a taper of 1⁄16 inch, thanks to the gentlemen who are now making these admirable gauges. We have a lathe that can turn that taper. I think if you go into the manufacture of these bolts, you will be obliged to use a lathe which will always turn a uniform taper. Having made a female gauge, [Fig. 1399], 8 inches long and 11⁄16 inches diameter with a taper of 1⁄16 inch to the foot, this is the standard of what? The area of the bolt, not of the hole it goes into. We now make a plug, [Fig. 1399]. Taking that tapered plug we should be able to drop it into the hole. Your taper reamer is made to fit this, but you require to know how deep the hole should be. Remember, I said this is the gauge that the bolts are made by. Now let us suppose that we have this as a standard, and to that standard these reamers are made. We decide by practice how much compression we can put upon the metal. For inch bolts, and, say, all above 1⁄2 inch, we might, say, allow the head to stand up 1⁄8 of an inch. Let us make another female gauge like [Fig. 1399], but turned down 1⁄8 of an inch shorter. We then shall have the hole smaller than it was before. It is this degree smaller, .0065 of an inch; that is a decimal representing how much smaller that hole is when you have gone down 1⁄8 of an inch on a taper of 1⁄16 inch to the foot.
