ANCHOVIES. These recipes do not call for the filets of anchovy prepared for hors-d'oeuvres, but the less expensive and larger whole anchovies in salt to be had in bulk or cans at large dealers. To clean them plunge in boiling water. This loosens the skin and removes superfluous salt. Remove head, tail, backbone and skin and they are ready for use.
GARLIC. Garlic is an inoffensive and wholesome ingredient if properly handled. Used in small quantities and thoroughly cooked it gives an indescribable flavor that is never disagreeable. By "a clove of garlic" is meant one of the tiny sections of a whole garlic peeled down to its white, fleshy core.
SUBSTITUTION OF OTHER INGREDIENTS. Many of the recipes which have been written down just as they were given can be made more economical and no less delicious by the substitution of clarified drippings, vegetable shortenings and corn or nut oils for salt pork, butter or bacon. Corn-starch is recommended for thickening instead of flour. Anyone who does not care for as much cheese or tomato as the Italian likes, may omit them entirely or greatly reduce the quantity in most of the recipes and still have an excellent dish.
BROWN STOCK
Sugo di Carne
- 1 lb. beef from some tough but juicy cut
- A small piece of salt pork
- A large onion
- A stalk of celery
- 2 tablespoons butter
- A carrot
- 2 cloves
- Salt, pepper
Chop the pork and put it in the bottom of a saucepan. Next add the onion, celery and carrot chopped. Dot with butter and over this place the meat cut into small pieces. Add any trimmings from steaks, roasts or chops that may be on hand and any bits of left over cooked meat. Season with salt and the cloves. Put over the fire without stirring. When you smell the onions getting very brown turn the meat and when everything is extremely brown add a cup of water and let it cook almost dry. Repeat this operation of adding the water three times. Finally add three pints of boiling water and let it boil gently five or six hours, when the stock will be reduced to a few cupfuls. Strain, cool and skim off the fat which will form a cake on top of the liquid.
The meat may afterwards be used for a Flam, for Polpettone or croquettes. The stock may be kept for some days and forms the basis for many dishes. In soups it is far superior to beef extract or bouillon cubes which may be substituted for it.