[Transcriber's Note: Illustrations were interleaved between pages in the original text. In this version, they have been moved beside the relevant section of the text. Page numbers below reflect the position of the illustration in the original text but links link to current position of illustrations.]
| FACING PAGE |
| Charleston is the last stronghold of a unified American upper class;
the last remaining American city in which Madeira and Port and
noblesse oblige are fully and widely understood, and are employed
according to the best traditions | [Frontispiece] |
| "Railroad tickets!" said the baggageman with exaggerated patience | [8] |
| Can most travellers, I wonder, enjoy as I do a solitary walk, by
night, through the mysterious streets of a strange city? | [17] |
| Coming out of my slumber with the curious and unpleasant sense of
being stared at, I found his eyes fixed upon me | [24] |
| Mount Vernon Place is the centre of Baltimore | [32] |
| If she is shopping for a dinner party, she may order the costly and
aristocratic diamond-back terrapin, sacred in Baltimore as is the
Sacred Cod in Boston | [48] |
| Doughoregan Manor—the house was a buff-colored brick | [65] |
| I began to realize that there was no one coming | [80] |
| Harper's Ferry is an entrancing old town; a drowsy place piled up
beautifully yet carelessly upon terraced roads clinging to steep
hillsides | [100] |
| "What's the matter with him?" I asked, stopping | [117] |
| When I came down, dressed for riding, my companion was making a
drawing; the four young ladies were with him, none of them in riding habits | [124] |
| Claymont Court is one of the old Washington houses | [132] |
| Chatham, the old Fitzhugh house, now the residence of Mark Sullivan | [148] |
| Monticello stands on a lofty hilltop, with vistas, between trees of
neighboring valleys, hills, and mountains | [157] |
| Like Venice, the University of Virginia should first be seen by
moonlight | [168] |
| One party was stationed on the top of an old-time mail-coach,
bearing the significant initials "F. F. V." | [180] |
| The Piedmont Hunt Race Meet | [189] |
| The Southern negro is the world's peasant supreme | [200] |
| The Country Club of Virginia, out to the west of Richmond | [216] |
| Judge Crutchfield | [228] |
| Negro women squatting upon boxes in old shadowy lofts stem the
tobacco leaves | [237] |
| The Judge: "What did he do, Mandy?" | [244] |
| Some genuine old-time New York ferryboats help to complete the
illusion that Norfolk is New York | [253] |
| "The Southern statesman who serves his section best, serves his
country best" | [280] |
| St. Philip's is the more beautiful for the open space before it | [300] |
| Opposite St. Philip's, a perfect example of the rude architecture of
an old French village | [305] |
| In the doorway and gates of the Smyth house, in Legaré Street, I was
struck with a Venetian suggestion | [316] |
| Nor is the Charleston background a mere arras of recollection | [320] |
| Charleston has a stronger, deeper-rooted city entity than all the
cities of the Middle West rolled into one | [328] |
| The interior is the oldest looking thing in the United States—Goose
Creek Church | [344] |
| A reminder of the Chicago River—Atlanta | [353] |
| With the whole Metropolitan Orchestra playing dance music all night long | [368] |
| The office buildings are city office buildings, and are sufficiently
numerous to look very much at home | [376] |
| The negro roof-garden, Odd Fellows' Building, Atlanta | [385] |
| I was never so conscious, as at the time of our visit to the Burge
Plantation, of the superlative soft sweetness of the spring | [396] |
| The planters cease their work | [400] |
| Birmingham—the thin veil of smoke from far-off iron furnaces
softens the city's serrated outlines | [408] |
| Birmingham practices unremittingly the pestilential habit of
"cutting in" at dances | [424] |
| Gigantic movements and mutations, Niagara-like noises, great bursts
of flame like falling fragments from the sun | [437] |
| A shaggy, unshaven, rawboned man, gray-haired and collarless, sat
near the window | [444] |
| Gaze upon the character called Daniel Voorhees Pike! | [456] |
| The houses were full of the suggestion of an easy-going home life
and an informal hospitality | [465] |
| Her hands looked very white and small against his dark coat | [480] |
| As water flows down the hills of Vicksburg to the river, so the
visitor's thoughts flow down to the great spectacular, mischievous, dominating stream | [485] |
| Over the tenement roofs one catches sight of sundry other buildings
of a more self-respecting character | [492] |
| Vicksburg negroes | [497] |
| On some of the boats negro fish-markets are conducted | [504] |
| The old Klein house | [512] |
| Citizens go at midday to the square | [520] |
| Hanging in the air above the middle of the stream | [536] |
| These small parks give Savannah the quality which differentiates it
from all other American cities | [556] |
| The Thomas house, in Franklin Square | [561] |
| You will see them having tea, and dancing under the palm fronds of
the cocoanut grove | [576] |
| Cocktail hour at The Breakers | [581] |
| Nowhere is the sand more like a deep warm dust of yellow gold | [588] |
| The couples on the platform were "ragging" | [600] |
| Harness held together by that especial Providence which watches over
negro mending | [613] |
| It was a very jolly fair | [616] |
| The mysterious old Absinthe House, founded 1799 | [620] |
| St. Anthony's Garden | [632] |
| Courtyard of the old Orleans Hotel | [641] |
| The little lady who sits behind the desk | [656] |
| The lights are always lowered at Antoine's when the spectacular Café
Boulot Diabolique is served | [664] |
| Passing between the brilliantly illuminated buildings, the Mardi
Gras parades are glorious sights for children from eight to eighty years of age | [672] |