When dried on the boards the leather is somewhat stiff, and has, therefore, to be softened before any finishing ingredients are applied. Chrome leather is softened by placing it for a few days in damp sawdust, which, for brown or fancy coloured leather, must be of deal or white pine, and, therefore, free from objectionable colouring matter; but, for black leather, the sawdust of any wood is suitable. The skins must be systematically piled one above the other, and a little damped sawdust scattered over each skin.
When properly "seasoned," the skins are brushed free of the sawdust and "staked," either by hand or machine, usually by the latter means. The staking knife may be fixed in a wood crutch (arm stake), or fixed upright in a vertical wooden stand (knee stake). In the former case, the skins to be staked must be secured in a horizontal wooden groove fixed to two uprights, the workman then pressing heavily in a downward direction with the staking knife, of which the crutch is held under the armpit. In using the upright stake, the leather is moved to and fro over the edge of the fixed knife. Both of these manual operations are arduous and somewhat dangerous, and should be displaced by machinery wherever possible (Fig. [36]).
Fig. 36
STAKING AND GLAZING MACHINE
The thoroughly softened leather is then dried, mordanted with a solution of logwood, or haematin crystals, blacked with levant ink, a specially prepared black dye, or with a suitable aniline dye, and dried again. It is finally seasoned with a glutinous or albuminous mixture (blood albumen, milk, and a little aniline black dye make a good mixture), dried, glazed, seasoned a second time, and reglazed. A light coating of mineral oil turns the finish into a jet black, and the leather is ready for the warehouse. There are several types of glazing machines, but the "grasshopper" (so called owing to its action) is the most popular for box calf. This machine is the same as shown in Figure 36, except that the working tool is replaced with a smooth glass or agate roller.
The term "box" applied to this leather was invented by a prominent American tanner, and had he registered the name and patented his process he would have reaped a very rich harvest, for the leather is used in enormous quantities throughout the world. As it was, the American firm tried to obtain an injunction against English firms manufacturing the leather, but had to withdraw their claim, as they were not the inventors of chrome leather, which was made in Scotland before it was introduced to the States. Moreover, the word "box," as applied to leather, was not registered in the United Kingdom.
Willow calf is exactly the same kind of leather as box calf, except that it is dyed brown instead of black. The seasoning mixture naturally differs and may consist of a mixture of egg albumen, milk, and a little of the same, or similar, dye solution as that used in the dyeing process. In order to get clear colouring, the dyes should be well dissolved and strained through fine muslin.