Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product

by K. J. Adcock

CHAPTER II
HIDES AND SKINS

The hides and skins of animals form the principal raw material of the tanner. Technically, the term "hides" is applied to the skins of the larger animals, while the word "skins" is used in the case of the smaller animals. Thus, the tanner speaks of ox, cow, bull and horse hides, and of calf, sheep, and goat skins. There is an intermediate size between a full-grown calf skin and a small hide, and this is known as a "kip," but the line of demarcation is not very clear.

Buyers often settle the difficulty by examining the growth marks and the irregular substance of the skin, and, if these are marked features, it is classified as a kip. The condition of the hides of cattle is usually inferior during the six months after the animal has become a yearling. East India tanned hides, which are largely imported into England, are frequently described as E.I. "kips" in the trade. This is hardly accurate, but the mistake is probably due to the small size of full-grown Indian hides, which are very little larger than the average European kips. It is interesting to observe that furriers always refer to both their raw material and the finished product as skins, irrespective of the size of the fur-bearing animals. Most of the skins of wild animals are dressed without removing the hair or fur, and this is quite a distinct trade from leather manufacture, the only exception being the dressing of closely cut and fine-haired calf skins for slippers and fancy articles.

Practically every country in the world contributes to the supply of hides and skins, but there are a few countries which are far in advance of the others in the industries of cattle and sheep-raising. The sources of tanners' raw material have undergone great changes since the establishment of freezing and chilling stores for the preparation of meat for export, and the market prices of hides are to a large extent controlled by the supply in North and South America, South Africa, and Australia. Whether or not the concentration of these huge meat works into two or three centres is likely to benefit the leather trade is a debatable point. The flaying, trimming, and curing of hides in these establishments are certainly superior to the work done by the average butcher, while, owing to the large numbers of cattle slaughtered, the hides can be closely selected. On the other hand, the value of hides and skins has risen enormously in the last decade, the period coincident with the rapid growth of the chilled and frozen meat industry, but the increased use of leather in many directions may be mainly responsible for the higher cost of the raw material, although it is obvious that the concentration of the chief supplies of hides in a few lands must tend to increase the severity of the competition among buyers. Apart from the high prices of the hides, the concentration of the meat industry in large chilling and freezing works has had the effect of increasing the prices of beef and mutton, which are now higher in price than freshly-killed English meat was a few years ago. It appears to have been a grave error on the part of the British Government when they stopped the imports of live cattle owing to the fear of foot-and-mouth disease being communicated to domestic herds. The disease has broken out in several places since the embargo was imposed, so that the theory that the infection was only carried by imported live cattle has been clearly disproved. The butchering of cattle provides a large amount of work in subsidiary industries, and the Government embargo on the importation of live cattle has caused a great deal of distress in Deptford and Birkenhead, where large abattoirs were erected for the reception of live cattle, which used to be imported in fairly large numbers. There is no danger of foot-and-mouth disease getting beyond the abattoirs or of the slaughter of diseased cattle for food, and both tanners and butchers hope to see the removal of the embargo. So far as possible, each country should raise its own cattle to provide its own meat supply, and this principle is recognised by many countries which prohibit the import of foreign meat: but, owing to the rapid growth of populations in industrial countries, with the consequent increase in the value of land, it has become impracticable to raise enough cattle to supply domestic needs. Even the United States of America, which formerly had a great cattle-raising industry, has lately been obliged to import live cattle to meet the requirements of its inhabitants. Similar conditions prevail almost throughout Europe, and tanners have to look to South America, Australia, and Africa for large supplies of raw hides, although there are still some tanners in the United Kingdom who use only the hides produced in this country.

The bulk of the production of hides and skins in the United Kingdom is disposed of at weekly public auctions in the principal towns: London, Manchester, Liverpool, Leeds, Birmingham, Newcastle, and Glasgow being the largest centres of distribution. However, there is still a large quantity bought by private treaty, and opinions are divided as to which is the better method of buying. Before the establishment of public auctions, hides were very cheap, but tanners were unable to get a good selection, although, for sole leather, that was not a very important matter. Public auctions have become so firmly established that it would be impossible for tanners to revert to the old system even if they desired it. The competition of private buyers with the auction markets has certainly benefited the butcher at the expense of the tanner, and the weighing and classification of hides ultimately became so irregular in many markets that the Tanners' Federation of the United Kingdom had to take strong action not long ago to protect their interests. They demanded the appointment of an independent inspector at each market to check the weighing and sorting of the hides, but this was successfully resisted by the market proprietors, who eventually agreed to the tanners appointing travelling inspectors to visit the markets periodically. The system is said to have improved matters.

The English markets do not collect enough hides to permit their close sorting, so that, while the hides are graded according to weight and quality and the sex of the animal, the question of varying substances is generally ignored. There is usually a difference of 10 lb. in each class where the hides are sorted by weight Ox, cow, heifer, and bull hides are sold separately, as each sort has a different value. Bull hides are comparatively poor in quality, owing to their irregular substance and strong growth marks in the neck. Ox hides are the most suitable for sole leather and belting, while cows' and heifers' are used mainly for dressing hides, which are finished into bag, case, strap, and boot leathers. The hides known as Scotch and Hereford runts are the best of those produced in the United Kingdom, as they are well-grown, compact, and well-suited to the making of sole leather and belting. The grading of the weight of these hides at the auction markets is generally as follows: 100 lb. and above, 90-99 lb., 80-89 lb., 70-79 lb., 60-69 lb., 59 lb. and less. This does not give an ideal classification, as hides vary so much in texture and substance, and it is quite possible to find spready hides of poor substance and quality which would be heavier than a small but compact and well-grown hide. It would be better from the tanner's point of view if the hides were selected according to substance and quality. There are not many bull hides grown in the United Kingdom, and in many markets they are not classed by weight but simply into best and secondary qualities. Horse hides are of even less value than those of bulls, owing to their weaker texture and irregular substance. That part of the skin under the mane is almost worthless, while the flanks and sides are only useful for a secondary class of boot upper leather, although some fairly good patent sides have lately been produced from horse hide, which is suitable for that purpose owing to its soft grain and pliable texture when tanned. The most valuable part of a horse hide is the butt, which consists of the part known as the "shell." This shell is covered with an extremely fine grain which is not found in any other part of the hide. The well-known crup leather is made from the shell of the horse hide.

In addition to hides, there are fairly large quantities of calf and sheep skins sold at the weekly auctions, but veal is not such an important article of food in England as it is on the Continent. Sheep skins are far more numerous, as Great Britain is a big mutton-consuming country. Home supplies of both hides and skins have been greatly reduced, however, by the immense import of frozen and chilled meat.

Although the domestic supply of hides and skins is quite inadequate to meet the needs of British tanners, a large proportion is exported. American tanners buy large quantities of the best hides and pickled sheep skins. The latter are dewoolled and preserved by a process of pickling with formic or sulphuric acid and salt before exportation. Those preliminary operations are the work of the fellmonger. Nearly all of the horse hides produced in the United Kingdom are, or were before the War, sent to Germany, and British leather-dressers appear to have lost the art of finishing horse hide, or are unable to convert it into leather profitably.

The interchange of raw hides between various countries, and even between those where leather manufacture is an important industry, is somewhat remarkable, and only goes to prove that the concentration of a particular industry in one or two centres of the world gives these places a great advantage in regard to labour, organisation, and technical skill, even over those countries where the raw material is plentiful. Theoretically and economically it should be advantageous to establish tanneries close to the supply of raw hides, since the latter, under present conditions of preservation, steadily deteriorate from the time they are removed from the carcase until they reach the tannery. In some countries the methods of preserving hides are actually so bad that the hides have often lost half of their value before the tanner gets them. Two or three of the largest American meat-packing establishments have erected or taken over tanneries to deal with raw hides, one of their by-products. Tanneries have also been erected near some of the large meat works in the Argentine, but the development of the leather trade there is by no means rapid, and at present the United States of America is the largest leather-producing country in the world. Germany, France, and the United Kingdom come next in the order named.

South Africa is an important source of supply of raw material, and large quantities of Cape hides are sent to England. The production of raw hides there is likely to be on a very large scale in a few years' time, as the raising of Afrikander and other breeds of cattle is sure to become an important industry now that the ravages of the terrible disease, known as "tick," have been checked. China is another large hide-exporting country; most of the hides from this source are dried in the open air and are generally arsenicated to prevent the ravages of insects. Immense quantities are also provided in all other populous countries, but the demand for leather is generally greater than the production of raw material in those countries. India is a noteworthy exception to this general rule; the production of Indian hides is enormous, and, although the leather trade is being developed, there is a large surplus of raw hides and skins for export. Large quantities are roughly tanned, however, and exported to England, Germany, France, and other European countries to be dressed and finished. The greater proportion of these hides and skins is used for the making of shoe leather, while a good quantity is used for bag (hide) and imitation morocco (goat) leathers.