Some steamers call at Bizerta (p. [352]); the others steer to the left, past the Cani and the island of Pilau (p. [132]), towards the little Ile Plane (lighthouse), which lies off Cape Farina (Arabic Râs Tarf; the ancient Promontorium Apollinis), where we come in sight of the broad Gulf of Tunis, with the island of Zembra (p. [153]) in the background.
We now cross the Bay of Utica (p. [353]) to the S., which since ancient times has been largely filled up with the deposits of the Medjerda (p. [320]), pass Cape Kamart (p. [351]) and La Marsa (p. [351]), and then reach the picturesque Cape Carthage (p. [351]), with its lighthouse and the sea-baths and white houses of Sidi Bou-Saïd. We now enter the *Inner Bay of Tunis, commanded on the E. by Jebel Korbous (p. [364]) and on the S. by Jebel Bou-Kornin (p. [363]), Jebel Ressas (p. [358]), and Jebel Zaghouan (p. [359]); we pass close to the castle-hill of Carthage (p. [344]), crowned with the cathedral, the sea-baths of Le Kram, Khéreddine, and Goulette Neuve (p. [344]), and reach Goletta (or La Goulette; p. [343]), a small seaport, situated on the tongue of land separating the Lac de Tunis or Lac Bahira (p. [332]) from the open sea.
The steamer here enters the canal, 5½ M. long, 110 yds. wide, and about 20 ft. deep, constructed across the lake in 1893, where we have a good view of the white houses of Tunis. On the right lies the island of Chikly, with relics of a castle built by Emp. Charles V. The surface of the lake is sometimes enlivened by flamingoes. The steamer, at half-speed, takes another hour to reach Tunis (p. [329]).
22. From Algiers to Tunis by Sea.
432 M. Steamers (touching at intermediate ports, 469 M.; agents at Algiers, see p. [219]; at Bougie, p. [262]; at Philippeville, p. [304]; at Tunis, p. [331]). 1. Comp. Générale Transatlantique, cargo-boat Wed. evening, viâ Bougie, Djidjelli, Collo, Philippeville, Bona, La Calle, Tabarca, and Bizerta, arrives at Tunis Sun. aft. (returning Sat. noon, arrives at Algiers Wed. morn.); 100 or 80 fr.; pier-dues at Tunis 4 or 3 fr.—2. German Levant Line, twice or thrice a month, generally calling at La Calle.—3. Hungarian Adria Co., cargo-boat twice a month to Tunis direct.
Or the voyage may be pleasantly divided as follows: Marseilles steamer of Comp. Gén. Transatlantique from Algiers to Bougie (Frid. evening; in 10 hrs.; 25 or 18 fr.); Marseilles steamer of Transports Maritimes Co. from Bougie to Philippeville (Tues. afternoon; in 12 hrs.; 18 or 12 fr.); Marseilles steamer of Navigation Mixte from Philippeville to Bona (Sat. forenoon; in 5 hrs.; 10 or 8 fr.); from Bona to Bizerta, by cargo-boat as above, or by railway; from Bizerta to Tunis by Marseilles steamer of the Comp. Gén. Transatlantique (p. [128]; Sat. night; in 5 hrs.; 15 or 12 fr.).—The small coasting steamers of Prosper Durand of Marseilles and of the Lignes Cotières Algériennes, which call at most of the ports as far as Bona, can only be recommended for short voyages by daylight.
The coast scenery between Algiers and Tunis is exceedingly picturesque and varied, but the voyage is often very trying for bad sailors. Storms are most frequent between Djidjelli and Collo, and between La Calle and Bizerta, and fogs are not uncommon, even in summer.
Algiers, see p. [217]. As the steamer leaves the harbour a beautiful *View is obtained astern of the town and of the coast as far as the Pointe Pescade (comp. p. [127]). Beyond Cape Matifou the coast, overlooked by the serrated Jebel Bou-Zegza (p. [249]), recedes for a time from view.
Near Jebel Djinet (p. [253]), beyond the sand-hills at the mouth of the Isser (p. [253]), begins the bold rock-bound coast of Great Kabylia, 87 M. in length, with its headlands and cliffs worn by the surf, its secluded little seaports, and its hill-sides carefully cultivated by the natives.
We pass the mouth of the Sebaou (p. [253]), the largest stream in Kabylia, and Cape Bengut (p. [254]), which affords scanty protection against the W. winds to the port of Dellys (p. [254]); then Tigzirt (p. [255]), Cape Tedless, and Port Gueydon or Azeffoun (lighthouse), with its roadstead open towards the W. Next comes the wildest and loneliest part of the coast, between Cape Corbelin and Cape Carbon; we pass Cape Sigli, the Pointe Timri n’Tguerfa, where Jebel Arbalou (p. [262]) comes in sight, and Cape Boulima.