A few paces to the S. of the University, in the coast-plain called the Mosella, between the Torrente Portalegni and the Torrente Zaera, and beyond the ruins of the new quarters of the town, lies the main Camp of wooden barracks for the homeless, flanking the Viale San Martino.
A good survey of the ruins, as well as a superb view of the straits, is obtained from the old Forte Castellaccio, which, along with the modern forts, the barracks of the mountain-artillery, and the powder-magazine, has escaped destruction. The way to it (35–40 min.) is up the Torrente Portalegni close to ruined houses; we then skirt the Botanic Garden, cross the Piazza Venti Settembre occupied by barracks, and ascend straight on the steep Via Castellaccio.
The beautiful Excursion to the Punta del Faro (cab, see p. [156]; bargain advisable) affords a good survey of the devastated environs. The road leads from the Giardino a Mare (p. [157]) and the camp called Villaggio Regina Elena, along the foot of the hills, past luxuriant orchards, and through the ruined fishing-villages of Salvatore dei Greci, Paradiso, and Pace; it then skirts two lagoons, the Pantano Grande, or Lago di Ganzirri, below the ruins of Faro Superiore, a village famed for its wine, and the Pantano Piccolo. On the Punta del Faro or Capo Peloro (once Promontorium Pelorum), the N.E. point of Sicily, are the ruins of the fishing-village of Faro or Torre del Faro, and near it the quite intact Lighthouse (200 steps; keeper 50 c.), which commands a splendid *View of the Lipari Islands and the Calabrian coast as far as Cape Vaticano (comp. p. [155]).
From Messina to Syracuse, 115 M., railway in 6¼–7 hrs.; fares 22 fr. 60, 15 fr. 85, 10 fr. 25 c. (journey may be broken once; to Giardini-Taormina, 30½ M., in 1½–2 hrs.). The quick trains start from Messina harbour (comp. p. [156]); the morning train, which runs to Syracuse harbour, has a dining-car (déj. 2½ fr.). The train skirts the coast, affording fine views; it crosses the stony channels of several torrenti or flumare, which are generally dry, and pierces a number of headlands by means of tunnels.
7½ M. Galati; 12 M. Scaletta Zanclea, with a picturesque castle, not far from the Capo di Scaletta; 15½ M. Alì, with sulphur-baths. Beyond the (23 M.) beautiful cape of Sant’ Alessio, with a deserted castle, we sight the headland of Taormina.
30½ M. Giardini-Taormina. The village of Giardini lies in a small bay, in a malarious region, 1¼ M. beyond the Capo di Taormina. Taormina is reached by road (3 M.), by a bridle-path, or by a steep footpath. (Diligence 1 fr.; down, 50 c.; carr. according to number of party, 2–5 fr.; heavy luggage had better be left at the station.)
Taormina (673 ft.; San Domenico Palace Hotel, Hotel Castello a Mare, Timeo, International, Villa San Pancrazio, Metropole, all often crowded from 15th Jan. to April and closed in summer; plainer, San Giorgio, Victoria, Naumachia, etc.; Brit. vice-cons., Dr. S. Cacciola-Cartella; pop. 4000), the ancient Tauromenium, a highly picturesque little town, lies on the S.E. spurs of Monte Venere (2900 ft.), and is overlooked by a ruined Castle (1300 ft.) and by the village of Mola (2083 ft.). Its chief attraction is the *Ancient Theatre, at the E. end of the town, which is open daily till dusk. Originally Greek it was entirely remodelled in the Roman period. The spectators’ area (cavea), almost wholly hewn in the rock, is 357 ft. in diameter, and the orchestra (seats for persons of distinction) 115 ft.; the stage (pulpitum) is particularly well preserved. The *View from the site of the theatre is one of the most beautiful in Italy, especially in the morning, when the sun rises above Calabria or, in winter, from the sea, imparting a rosy hue to the snowy peak of Mt. Ætna (p. [159]), and gilding the rocky heights beyond the theatre.
Between Taormina and Catania the train crosses a number of the lava-streams descending from Mt. Ætna. On the northmost of these, near Schisò, between the bay of Giardini and the mouth of the Alcántara (Arabic al-kántara, the bridge), lay Naxos, founded in 735 B. C., the oldest Greek colony in Sicily.
41 M. Giarre-Riposto, the station for the country-town of Giarre and for the seaport of Riposto which has a brisk trade in wine. It is also the starting-point of the railway round the W. side of Mt. Ætna (‘Ferrovia Circumetnéa’; 68½ M. in length).
51 M. Acireale (525 ft.; Sicil. Iaci), a wealthy country-town built on several lava-streams and much frequented as a bathing-place on account of its mineral springs (sulphur, salt, and iodine).—Near (55½ M.) Aci Castello we perceive on the left in the sea seven cliffs of columnar basalt, the Scogli de’ Ciclopi or Islands of Cyclops, the rocks which according to Greek myth the blinded Polyphemus hurled after the crafty Ulysses.