We next proceed to the E.N.E., past Kisamo Bay and Cape Spada (Psakon), the N. point of the island. Beyond the cape opens the broad Bay of Canea (Gr. Chanía).
In favourable weather the steamer anchors in the open roads of Canea (Hôt. de France, pens. 8–10 fr.; Hôt.-Restaur. Bristol, pens. 5–8 fr.; at both it is advisable to ask charges; Brit. cons.-gen., R. Peel; pop. 21,000), the capital of Crete, on the site of Kydonia. The remains of the Venetian fortifications are interesting. Fine view from the lofty reservoir of the waterworks. Most of the consuls reside at Chalepa, the E. suburb.
In stormy weather the steamers round the broad headland of Akrotiri (once Kyamon) and anchor in Suda Bay, the only good harbour in the island. (Road to Canea.)
After leaving Canea and passing Cape Drépano we have a pleasant view of Harmyro Bay and Rethymno, Ital. Rétimo (pop. 9300), the ancient Rhithymna, now the third-largest town in Crete. In the heart of the island tower the Psiloriti Mts., the ancient Ida, often snow-clad, culminating in the Stavros (8065 ft.).
Farther on we pass Cape Stavros, an important landmark. We then steer to the S.E., between Cape Panaghia and the barren island of Dia, Ital. Standia (870 ft.), where vessels seek refuge from northerly storms, into Candia Bay and anchor in the roads a little off the quay (lighthouse).
Candia (Hotels, both near the landing-place: Cnossos, pens. 9–15 fr., with restaurant; Angleterre, rooms only, unpretending; advisable to ask charges at both; Brit. vice-cons., A. Calocherino; pop. 22,480), Gr. Herákleion, formerly Megalókastron, the seat of the Metropolitan of Crete, is said to have been founded by the Moors on the site of Herakleion, the port of Knossos. Here also the fortifications were built by the Venetians, and were bravely defended by their admiral Franc. Morosini against the Turks for three years until he had to capitulate in 1669.
We walk from the landing-place through the main street and past a handsome Venetian palace to the chief square, with the Morosini Fountain. Straight on we come, at the E. end of the town, to an open space, at the N.E. angle of which is the—
*Museum, containing the splendid antiquities excavated at Knossos and elsewhere, illustrating the peculiar development of art in Crete at its prime. The oldest objects belong to the so-called island culture (3rd millenary B.C.) of the bronze period, or early and middle Minoan periods, as they are now called after Minos the legendary king of Crete. To the bronze age belong also the pre-Hellenic antiquities, those namely of the so-called Mycenæan or late Minoan period (middle of 2nd millenary B.C.), which are hardly surpassed by the creations of Greece at its zenith. Particular notice should be taken of the wall-paintings, fragments of a procession, stone vases with reliefs, ivory statuettes of bull-baiters, and the two fayence figures of a goddess grasping a snake.
From the old S. gate of Candia a road (horse 3–4 fr.) leads in less than an hour to the site of Knossos, the ancient capital of the island. The *King’s Palace, excavated here since 1898 by Mr. Arthur Evans, dates from the second or middle Minoan period, but was already half burned down in the Mycenæan period.
The steamer next crosses the Cretan Sea, to the N.N.E., to two islands of the Cyclades (p. [492]): Anaphe (1349 ft.) and Santorin or Thira (1857 ft.), the ancient Thera. Close to Cape Oia (lighthouse) on the beautiful island of Santorin, which is the relic of an old crater (p. [492]), are seen the ruins of Thera, the ancient capital.