We may travel also by the ‘Graça’ tramway (in returning called ‘Rua Gomes Freire’) in the reverse direction, starting from the Sé Patriarchal and proceeding to the Nossa Senhora da Graça church on the way out, and descend by the funicular.
From the Botanic Garden the ‘Estrella’ tramway brings us viâ the Largo do Rato (Pl. D, 1) to the Aqueducto das Aguas Livres, constructed in 1729–49. It leads us farther to Buenos Ayres, the high-lying W. quarter of the city, to the vicinity of the cemeteries, and to the Jardim da Estrella (Pl. C, 2).
The Estrella Church (Pl. C, 3), officially known as the Basilica do Santissimo Coração de Jesús, was built in 1779–96. It is crowned with a lofty dome over the crossing, and its interior is sumptuously fitted up.
The *Ascent of the Dome (entrance by 5th door on the right; fee 100 rs.) amply repays the fatigue. The stairs in the N.W. tower ascend first to the flat roof of the church, where we already have a fine view. We then pass through the double lining of the dome into a gallery surrounding its interior. A ladder finally leads to the Lantern, the view from which (best in the afternoon) is the most extensive in Lisbon and includes the whole of the city, the S. bank of the estuary, and the ocean.
The Jardim da Estrella is flanked on the W. by the Rua da Estrella which ascends to the English Cemetery (Cemiterio dos Inglezes; Pl. C, 2; visitors ring; fee 50–100 rs.), laid out in 1717, the oldest Protestant burial-ground in Portugal. It contains the grave of Henry Fielding (1707–54), author of the immortal ‘Tom Jones’. Here too is the English Church (p. [9]).
To return from this point we take the funicular No. 3 (p. [7]), past the Palacio das Côrtes (Pl. D, 3; Chamber of Deputies), to the Praça de Luis de Camões (Pl. E, 4; pron. Kamŏengsh), which is embellished with a monument of the famous poet Camões (1524–80), the author of the Lusiads, a great national epic celebrating the noble deeds of his countrymen.
From the Praça de Camões we return through the Rua Garrett and the Rua do Carmo (Pl. F, 4), the busiest streets in the town, with the best shops, to the Rocio (p. [11]).
Time permitting, we may now pay a short visit to Lisboa Oriental, which is best reached by the funicular line No. 4 (p. [7]). From the terminus in the Largo da Graça (Pl. H, 3, 4) we pass round the old Graça monastery (now barracks) to the church of—
Nossa Senhora da Graça (Pl. G, H, 3, 4; 262 ft.), situated on a hill which affords a fine view of Lisboa Occidental and the lower town, while the harbour is concealed by St. George’s Castle (see below).