The Steamers arriving from the N. skirt the W. coast of Porto Santo (p. [17]), an island in the form of a tableland, surrounded by five reef-islets; its inhabitants (about 2300) live mostly in the little town of Villa Baleira. Beyond Porto Santo we obtain a superb view of the abrupt and furrowed N. coast of Madeira, with the curiously shaped Penha d’Aguia (p. [27]).
Farther on appears the long E. promontory of Madeira, a rocky peninsula worn by the surf, and connected with the islet of Ponta de São Lourenço by a grand rocky gateway called the Ponta do Furado. We steer round the Ilheo de Fora, an outlying islet with a lighthouse (Farol; 348 ft.), visible from a distance of 28 M., towards which the steamers from Lisbon, Gibraltar, and Morocco direct their course, passing to the S. of Porto Santo.
To the S., beyond the low island of Chão, rise the Deserta Grande and Bugio, the largest of the Desertas (p. [17]), a group of islands deserted for lack of water, and now owned by Mr. C. J. Cossart, of Madeira. British sportsmen desiring to shoot wild goats there or hunt seals (Monachus albiventer) in the ocean-caves of the Deserta Grande must obtain permission from the owner.
The thinly peopled and somewhat bare S.E. coast of Madeira, with the three little harbours of Caniçal, Machico, and Santa Cruz, shows clearly the geological formation of the island (comp. pp. [17], 18). Off Porto Novo, in particular, we are struck with the rich colouring of the Pico dos Iroses, where the sombre basaltic and lava rock contrasts with brick-red strata of ashes and blood-red masses of slag.
Very beautiful is the approach to the *Bay of Funchal, which is bounded on the E. by the bold Cabo do Garajão, and on the W. by the Ponta da Cruz, a spur of the Pico da Ponta da Cruz (p. [25]). From the narrow strip of coast the lanes of the old town mount the steep hill-side between the three river-beds (which are generally dry), while several groups of houses extend up to the Pico Fort (p. [23]) and the Levada de Santa Luzia (p. [24]). Farther up, stretching to the terrace of the Monte (p. [24]), are gardens and vineyards, from which peep many white quintas or country-houses. On the plateau behind Forte Ilheo (p. [24]) are seen the charming gardens, with their tall araucarias, belonging to the W. suburb of Funchal, the finest residential quarter. Of the barren mountains in the background the highest peak visible from the sea is the Pico de Santo Antonio (p. [25]), to the N.W. of the town.
Funchál.—Arrival. The steamers cast anchor in the open roads, which are much exposed to the surf when the wind is from the S. or S.W. The passenger’s luggage, including hand-bags and small packages, is conveyed from the steamer, in charge of a guarda fiscal, direct to the Alfándega, or custom-house (Pl. 1; C, D, 2). Tobacco, spirits, and unused articles are specially dutiable. The charge for landing is about 500 rs. for each person, but should be ascertained beforehand, with the aid of the hotel-porter if necessary. In stormy weather passengers are landed at the Pontinha (Pl. B, 3), a small pier beyond the Forte Ilheo. At the custom-house a declaration has to be filled up, for which the fee is 50 rs.; the luggage is then usually retained till midday, and when it is finally cleared the passenger gives a receipt for it (250–300 rs. more). For the transport of luggage to the hotel by bullock-car not more than 1000 rs. should be paid (an agreement should be made beforehand). The Madeira clock is 59 min. behind Greenwich time.
Hotels (mostly in the English style; almost all with beautiful gardens; crowded from Dec. to April). In the W. suburb *Reid’s Palace Hotel (Pl. a; A, 3), situated on a basalt rock and commanding fine views, with sea-baths, etc., pens. 10–25s. (or in the dépendance, Villa Victoria, 8s. 6d.–18s.); Hot. Bella Vista (Pl. b, B 2; Jones’s), above the Rua da Imperatriz Dona Maria, pens. from 8s.; Hot. Royal (Pl. c, A 3; Adams’s), Rua da Imperatriz Dona Amelia, pens. from 8s.; Pension Quisisana (Reuter’s), Estrada Monumental (Pl. A, 3), 8–12s.; Pension Almeida (Pl. f; A, 3), by the Redondo.—In the old town, Reid’s Carmo Hotel (Pl. d; D, 1), Rua do Carmo, 8s. 6d.–18s.; Gr.-Hôt. Central (Swiss landlady), near the pier (Caes; Pl. C, 2); Hot. Universal (Pl. e; C, 2), Largo da Sé, pens. 1200 rs., a Portug. house.—On the Monte (p. [24]; comp. inset plan), with splendid views, Monte Palace Hotel (Pl. g); Hot. Belmonte (Pl. h); Reid’s Mount Park Hotel (Pl. i), pens. 7s. 6d.–10s.; all three near the terminus. Wine, always an extra, is dear. The Agua Minero-Natural of Porto Santo is a good table-water (60 rs. per small bottle).
Apartments for the winter in numerous quintas or villas, furnished, but without bed or table linen; from Oct. to June 40l. and upwards.