From the quay several alleys, the Kræmer Passage, the Hœnischer Passage (Pl. B, 3, 4), and others, and the busy street Galatzo Sokak (Pl. B, C, 3) lead to the Frank Quarter. The main streets here, running parallel with the quay, are the so-called Parallel St., the Quai Anglais (Turk. Eski Balik Basar; Pl. B, C, 3, 4), the Maltese quarter, and above all the Franks’ Street, in sections bearing different names (Rue des Verreries, Rue Franque, Rue Trassa, etc.), and lined with many European and other shops.
To the E. of Rue Franque, passing the Rom. Cath. cathedral of St. Jean (Pl. C, 4), we come to the Greek Quarter, to which the lively streets Bella Vista (Pl. D, 2) and Oroman Sokak (Pl. D, 2, 3) also lead. The Greek Cath. cathedral of Hagia Photinē or Aï Fotini (Pl. B, 4) lies near the S.W. end of the Franks’ Street.
A little beyond Aï Fotini the street ends at the *Bazaar (Pl. B, 5; open till sunset), which vies in its picturesque variety with the Great Bazaar of Constantinople. Smyrna carpets, mostly from the interior, old embroidery, and modern silks may be bought here at reasonable prices. The so-called antiquities, however, are generally spurious. The bazaar is within the Turkish Quarter, on the site of ancient Smyrna, with its quiet streets ascending the Pagos (see below), and extending to the S.W. to the Moslem and the old Jewish Cemeteries. Near these, but difficult to find, are traces of the temples of Asklepios and Vesta (Pl. A, 7). Within the Turkish quarter lies the very unsavoury Jewish Quarter (Pl. B, C, 5, 6).
From the church of Aï Fotini we may walk through the Armenian Quarter, past the Armenian cathedral of St. Etienne (Pl. C, 5) and the Basma Khâné Station (Pl. D, 5), to the Caravan Bridge (Pl. E, 5), which the busy traffic with the interior crosses.
From the Moslem cemeteries (Pl. A, B, 7) mentioned above, or from the Caravan Bridge, we ascend in ½ hr. to the top of the *Pagos (525 ft.), which affords a superb view of the city, the bay, and the hills around. The extensive outer wall of the old Castle, dating from the Byzantine and Genoese periods, consists partly of the substructures and masonry of the Acropolis of king Lysimachos (p. [531]). Of the Roman Theatre (Pl. C, D, 6, 7) and the Stadion (Pl. B, C, 7; p. [509]) on the hill-side hardly a trace is left.
*Excursions. To Göz Tepeh (p. [530]) by tramway or by local steamer (p. [531]).—By local steamer or by railway (from the Basma Khâné Stat., see p. [532]) to Kordelio (cafés; sea-baths), a little town prettily situated among gardens on the N. bank of the bay. From the steamer, to the E. of the Punta (p. [531]), we see the Bay of Burnabad and the plain of that name, beyond which, on the Yamanlar Dagh (3202 ft.), is the site of Ancient Smyrna (p. [531]).
Leaving Smyrna the Steamer passes the Kara Burun (p. [530]) and usually steers to the W.N.W. out to sea. Astern we obtain a fine view of Chios. We soon skirt the beautiful S. coast of Mytilini or Mitylene (3084 ft.; ancient Lesbos; 673 sq. M.), the largest island in the Ægean Sea, and pass the narrow entrance of the far-penetrating Bay of Kalloni. Beyond Cape Sigri (Sigrium Promontorium) and the islet of Megalonisi (lighthouse) we sight the distant coast of Troas (see below).
Some of the vessels, beyond Arslan Burun (p. [530]), steer to the N., close to the Anatolian coast, and past the finely varied scenery, of the Bay of Chandarli, the ancient Sinus Elaeates. On the N. bank of that bay, to the W. of the estuary of the Bakyr Chai (once Kaïkos), rises the Kara Dagh (2559 ft.; Cane Mons).
Beyond Cape Maltepe, a spur of Kara Dagh, and the Hagios Georgios Islands opens the Strait of Mytilini, 9 M. wide, lying between the island and the coast of ancient Mysia. On the right, far inland from Kabakum Bay, we sight the hills near Bergama, the famous Pergamum of the Greeks. On the hill-side to the left, beyond Cape Malea, the S.E. point of the island, lies Mytilini or Kastro (Turk. Midüllü), its capital, with a Genoese castle.