We leave the Seraglio by the Bab i Humayún (Pl. I, 6), the superb modern gate of the sultan, replacing that of Mohammed II.
In the Seraï Meïdán (Pl. I, 6, 7; ‘Seraglio Square’), on the S.W. side of the palace-walls, rises the *Fountain of Ahmed III., erected in 1728, the finest sebíl in the city, with a well-preserved timber roof. Nearly opposite are the Aya Sophia and the Ministry of Justice (Pl. H, 1, 7), which was the meeting-place of the new Turkish parliament in 1908–9.
The **Aya Sóphia Mosque (Pl. H, 7; adm., see p. [539]), formerly the church of St. Sophia, 4 min. to the S. of the So-uk Cheshmeh Gate (p. [546]), is the most famous edifice in the whole city. Here in 326, opposite to his palace, Constantine erected a basilica, which he dedicated to Divine Wisdom (Sophía), and which after a fire in 415 was rebuilt by Theodosius II. The church having again been destroyed during the Nika rebellion, Justinian caused the present sumptuous edifice, which was to eclipse all others in the empire, to be erected in 532–7 by Anthemios of Tralleis and Isidoros of Miletos.
The plan of the building is nearly square. Its axis, contrary to custom, runs to the E.S.E., in line with that of the palace. It measures 82½ by 77 yds., but if the atrium or forecourt had still existed the length would have been no less than 184 yds. The edifice with its nave and aisles presents a curious combination of an ancient Christian basilica with a dome-covered mosque. Above the nave, which is 36 yds. in breadth, the great dome, 105 ft. in diameter and 184 ft. in height, but externally inconspicuous, rises on four massive pillars. It is continued lengthwise by two half-domes, relieved by niches, the large E. central niche forming the apse. The upper story of the aisles, borne by antique columns with capitals resembling imposts, and the galleries above the inner vestibule contained the gynæceum, or women’s seats.
The Crusaders pillaged the church in 1204 (p. [542]), and many of its treasures were carried off also at the Turkish conquest. The mosaics were whitewashed, the minaret at the S.E. angle was erected, and the unsightly flying buttresses were added on the E. side. To the further detriment of the general effect the successors of the conqueror built the other three minarets, the mausoleums, schools, and outbuildings. A thorough restoration was undertaken by Fossati, an Italian architect, in 1847, when the outside was painted yellow with red stripes.
The entrance for visitors is in the N. side-street, by a door to the left of the N.W. minaret. A few steps descend to the Inner Vestibule (eso-narthex), from which five doors open on the outer vestibule (exo-narthex) and nine portals lead into the interior. At the S. end of the inner vestibule, opposite the N. entrance, is a Byzantine *Bronze Door (9th cent.), with part of the original panels.
The northmost portal admits us to the *Interior, in which the immense central dome, in contrast to St. Peter’s at Rome, dominates the entire nave. The marble pavement is partly destroyed and partly covered with carpets and mats spread obliquely in the direction of Mecca (S.E.). The mihrâb or prayer-recess has been placed, for the same reason, a little to the S. of the axis of the apse. Beside the pillars of the apse are, on the right, the mimbar, or Friday pulpit, and on the left the octagonal grated gallery of the sultan, resting on eight antique columns. The nave contains several open galleries or tribunes for prayer-recitals. The Koran niche in the S. aisle also is worth seeing. (Visitors should be careful not to touch anything.)
During the nights of Ramadan (p. [539]) visitors are admitted only to the galleries, which the sacristan will show at other times.
On the S. side of the mosque, adjoining the Aya Sophia Meïdán, rise five Türbehs, or burial-chapels of sultans. The southmost, once the baptistery of the church, dates perhaps from Justinian’s reign.
The Aya Sóphia Meïdán (Pl. H, 7), a busy square planted with trees, on the S. side of the mosque, was the ancient Augusteion (or Agorá), the greatest centre of traffic in New Rome, whence the triumphal road led to the Golden Gate (p. [554]). Down to the Turkish conquest it was adorned with a mounted statue of Justinian. Adjoining it on the S.W. lies the At Meïdán (Pl. H, 7; ‘horse square’), 330 yds. long, partly occupying the site of a Hippodrome begun by Sept. Severus (p. [541]) and completed by Constantine. From these two squares, and from the Seraï Meïdán (p. [548]), the Roman and Byzantine imperial palaces, with their dependencies and several churches, extended to the S.E. to the town-wall on the Sea of Marmora.