c. The Golden Horn.
By Caïque (p. [538]) from the New Bridge to Eyúb about 1 hr., to the Sweet Waters 1½–2 hrs. (there and back 20–25 pias.). The row back is particularly fine towards sunset.—Steamboat (p. [538]) to Eyúb in ¾ hr., thence to the Sweet Waters 20 min.
The Golden Horn, already named Chrysokeras by the Greeks, an arm of the sea 4½ M. long and at the widest point ½ M. across, probably a submerged side-valley of the Bosporus, is one of the finest natural harbours in the world. In the Byzantine period it was closed for defensive purposes by a chain. It consists of the Outer Commercial Harbour (Pl. H, I, 4, 5), with the Galata Quay (p. [543]) and the new quays on the Stambul side, the Inner Commercial Harbour (Pl. G, H, 4), between the two bridges, and the Naval Harbour (Pl. E-G, 2, 3).
The voyager on the Golden Horn is chiefly struck with the busy harbour scenes and the picturesque appearance of the crowded Oriental quarters rising from the banks. Starting from the New Bridge (Pl. H, 4) the steamer crosses the inner commercial harbour to the pier of Yemish Iskelesí (Pl. G, 4) at Stambul, at the foot of the terrace of the Suleiman Mosque, and then passes under the Old Bridge (Pl. F, G, 4; p. [552]) into the naval harbour. On the Stambul side it first calls at the piers of Jubali Kapu and Aya Kapu (Pl. F, 3), the latter lying below Selim’s Mosque (p. [553]).
Next, on the same side, are the piers of Phanar (Pl. E, 2), the Greek quarter, where a terrible massacre took place in 1821, and Balat (Pl. D, 2), the largest Jewish quarter.
On the opposite bank, from the Old Bridge onwards, lie the dockyard buildings. On the bay of Kasím Pasha (calling-place of some of the steamboats) is the Ministry of Marine (Divan Haneh; Pl. G, 2, 3), with its surrounding barracks, workshops, and docks. In front of it are anchored men-of-war and guard-ships.
The steamer next touches at Ters Haneh (Pl. E, 2), on the E. bank, at the end of the dockyard, and at the Jewish quarter of Haskiöi (Has Keuï; Pl. E, 1); then, on the W. bank, at Aivan Seraï (Pl. D, 1; p. [554]), where we have a fine view of the N.E. end of the land-walls and the beginning of the sea-wall on the Golden Horn; then, on the E. bank, at Kalijeh Oglu, and on the W. bank at Defterdar Iskelesí (Pl. C, 1) and Eyúb (see inset plans in Plan of City).
In the suburb of *Eyúb, a few minutes’ walk from the pier, is the famous Mosque of Eyúb, where the ceremony of girding each new sultan with the sword takes place. It was built of white marble by Mohammed II., the Conqueror, in 1459, adjacent to the türbeh of Abu Eyúb Ensari, the legendary standard-bearer of the prophet, whose tomb here was revealed in a vision a few days after the conquest. The spot is so revered by the Moslems that until now no Christian dared set foot even in the outer court. Since the establishment of the new Turkish government, however, visitors may enter the deeply impressive court and even the mosque itself, but they should be careful not to remain standing between the railings in the centre of the court and the gilded windows on the wall-side.
From the mosque, up the hill-side to the N.E., extends the picturesque Cemetery, with its venerable cypresses. A path ascends from the mosque, past a monastery (Tekkeh) of the dancing dervishes (p. [543]), to the top, where we have a splendid *View of both banks of the Golden Horn.
From Eyúb a smaller local steamer plies through the Stambul Liman, the shallow N.W. arm of the Golden Horn, 1¼ M. long, to Kiathaneh, or Kiahat Haneh; this trip, on Fridays or Sundays in spring, affords an interesting picture of Turkish life. At Kiathaneh two streams fall into the Golden Horn, the so-called Sweet Waters of Europe (the Asiatic waters, see p. [558]), or Eaux Douces. The eastmost is the Kiathaneh Suyu, in the valley of which, about 1¼ M. up, is a château of the sultan, the most popular holiday resort of the citizens of Constantinople. In the meadows, under shady trees, are erected huts and arbours, where music and amusements of all kinds are provided. The Moslems enjoy themselves sedately here on Fridays; the Christians come on Sundays; hither too the people of fashion ride or drive. Shortly before sunset a whole flotilla of boats on the Golden Horn returns home to the city.