A little short of the bridge we turn to the left and follow the Paseo de Cristóbal Colón (Pl. E, F, 5, 4), skirting the left bank of the Guadalquivir and the quays. On the left lie the Bull Ring (Pl. F, 4, 5); then the pretty Plaza de Atarazanas (Pl. F, 4; Arabic Dâr as-San῾a, ‘arsenal’, ‘place of work’), on the site of the old Moorish wharf, where the great Artillery Arsenal (Maestranza), the Hospital de la Caridad, and the Custom House (Aduana), are now situated.
The Hospital de la Caridad (Pl. F, 4; adm., see p. [60]), erected for the ‘brotherhood of charity’ (Hermandad de la Caridad) in 1661–4, possesses, in its baroque church, six far-famed **Murillos (1660–74). Two of these in particular are the delight and admiration of every beholder: Moses striking the Rock (Cuadro de las Aguas, or La Sed, ‘the thirst’) and the Feeding of the Five Thousand (Pan y Peces, ‘bread and fishes’). Besides these pictures there are, on the left, the Infant Christ, the Annunciation, and San Juan de Dios carrying sick persons into the hospital; on the right, the young John the Baptist. By tho high-choir are two singular but repulsive pictures by Juan Valdés Leal (1630–91), the Raising of the Cross and the Triumph of Death.
Near the S. angle of the Plaza, close to the river, rises the Torre del Oro (Pl. G, 4), once a fortified tower of the Moorish Alcázar (p. [61]), and ever since called the ‘tower of gold’ on account of its brilliant azulejos. The upper part of the tower dates from the Christian period only; the window openings and the balconies were constructed in 1760.
Near the Torre del Oro begin the *Public Gardens of Seville, which, particularly in spring, when roses, camellias, and orange-blossom are in their glory, afford a delightful promenade. The favourite part is the Paseo de las Delicias (Pl. H, 3), beginning at the Palacio de Santelmo (Pl. G, 3; now a priests’ seminary), where the people of fashion drive on fine afternoons. On the way back we may walk through the Parque María Luisa (Pl. H, 2), once part of the Santelmo gardens, and regain the town by the Calle San Fernando, passing the great Tobacco Factory (Pl. G, 3), a huge baroque building of 1757.
8. From Seville to Cordova.
81½ M. Railway (Seville and Madrid Line) in 2¾–4¾ hrs. (fares 16 p. [40], 12 p. [30], 7 p. [40] c.); one train de luxe daily, 1st cl. only, fare 10 per cent higher. Trains start from the Estación de Córdoba.
Seville, see p. [59]. We follow the Guadalquivir upstream, at some distance from its lofty reddish banks, which are visible at times. Nearing (13½ M.) Brenes we enjoy a last retrospect of the cathedral of Seville with the Giralda.
22 M. Tocina, the junction for Mérida and Lisbon. Beyond (25½ M.) Guadajoz we cross to the right bank of the Guadalquivir. 46½ M. Peñaflor, adjoining rapids of the river which drive large mills. 49 M. Palma del Río, at the confluence of the Guadalquivir with the Genil (p. [74]). 67½ M. Almodóvar, with a loftily situated Moorish castle, now being restored.
81½ M. Cordova.—At the Station (Estación de Madrid, Sevilla y Málaga; Pl. B, C, 1; Rail. Restaur.) are omnibuses from the chief hotels.
Hotels (comp. p. [51]; charges should be arranged beforehand). Hot. Suizo (Pl. a; C, 2), corner of Calle Duque de Hornachuelos and the narrow Calle Diego León, pens, from 12½ p., variously judged.—Less expensive: Hot. de Oriente (Pl. c; C, 2), pens. 8–10 p.; Hot. de España & Francia (Pl. b; C, 2), pens. 8 p.; Hot. Simón (Pl. d; C, 2), pens. 5–6 p., very fair; these three are in the Paseo del Gran Capitán; Cuatro Naciones, Calle San Miguel 4.