(a) Front. (b) Under Arm Piece. (c) Side of Back. (d) Back. (e) Collar. (f) Outside Sleeve. (g) Inside Sleeve.
The pattern for a bodice of this kind should be of such a shape that in each part the woof threads will go as straight around the waist as possible. This makes the warp threads perpendicular and will give almost a perfect bias on the current seams in the back. Do not cut the side forms out of any piece that is big enough, without regard to the warp and woof threads. If this is done, the threads in each will run differently and all ways but the right one. In a well-designed pattern the back forms should be nearly as wide at the arm's eye as they are at the waist line. The swell of bust and shoulders should be accommodated by the back and front forms.
When material is to be cut on the bias be careful to have a true bias (the diagonal of a square) around the waist and up the front and back seams.
PLAN FOR MAKING FITTED, LINED WAIST.
Pin pattern to lining, cut out trace seams.
Baste all seams on traced lines.
Try on lining. Make changes.
Rip lining, baste on outside and cut by fitted lining.
Baste seams and try on. Make changes if necessary.
Mark the turn for hem down the front, face and mark for fastenings.