Thursday, December 3l.—Here we are, at home again, feeling decidedly tired, but having much enjoyed our holiday in the open air. We spent a very quiet day yesterday. In the afternoon I sketched an archway of rock. Then I went along the shore in search of Graham and William. The latter was trying, without either hook or bait, to catch fish, and caught three crawfish, one of which we had for supper. This morning we were up soon after four and had our bathe; the sun was just rising. We returned to prepare breakfast. William was to have had the fire lit, but we found he had used all his matches in vain. The fire was made to burn at last and breakfast cooked and over, we packed our knapsacks and started for home. We got across the plain fairly well and down the cliff, which was not an easy descent, on to the shore. It took us one hour and twenty-five minutes scrambling over the stones and boulders of the shore, and we went very quickly, just taking a respite now and again. In some parts, where there had been landslips, it was not safe to halt. We were glad when we got over this part, but the worst was to come. The mountain had a heavy mist over it. Before we began to ascend it we sat in Anherstock Gulch and had lunch. We were very thirsty and the only water we could get was some rain-water in the hollow of a rock. The ascent was steep, and before we had gone far rain came on. Then we had to walk along the side of the mountain in a narrow path bordered and overhung by dripping ferns. The last part was very steep and I kept stumbling over my wet skirt, and really if William had not assisted me, I do not know how I should have got up. Graham had as much as he could do to drag up the load on his back. From the heights which we now reached we could see the Bluff and make out figures which we guessed were awaiting us. Before long we got down to them and found they were Ellen and the children. She had brought donkeys and also a dry skirt and waterproof for me, which I was thankful to put on. The donkeys soon were saddled and we set off home. The saddles were men's and lacked stirrups. We came home at a tremendous pace, and it was as much as I could do to stick on. Graham, relieved of his load, ran behind and kept the donkey going. Knowing we were wet through, he would not listen to my entreaties to let the animals walk, so we raced the five miles home. As we neared the houses people came out to greet us, and were glad to see we were safely back. Only a few of the women have been to Stony Beach, and I doubt if any have been up the valley. In the evening the men came round, as is their custom on New Year's Eve, and in the intervals of playing and drinking tea were most interested in hearing about our expedition. They think we went about thirty-two miles.
CHAPTER XXXV
Tuesday, January 5, 1909.—We have had another excursion. Thinking we would make the most of the holiday, yesterday we went with some of the young people up to the Ponds. It was our intention to start early, but the weather looked uncertain, so we waited awhile. At last we started off. Our party of eleven included Alfred, Maria and Johnny Green, William and Sophy Rogers, Emma Hagan, and Mary, Martha and Susan Repetto. We had a short walk over the sands going east, and then one of the stiff climbs, now becoming quite familiar, up the mountains, but we climbed leisurely, picking and eating berries as we went. It was a really hard climb at the end. Having reached the top we walked along a gulch, where I took two photographs, and from there got on to a moor which was covered with high-growing ferns, making walking difficult. We had about three miles of this and then reached the Ponds. They are close together, and the top one flows into the middle one and that again into the third. We descended to the first and there sat down for lunch, and how thankful we were to rest no words can say. Mary undertook the boiling of the water drawn from the pond; there was not much wood and a strong wind, and it seemed as if it would never boil. After lunch, as it was blowing rather cold, we moved on, making a detour along the opposite hill round the second pond to the third. The ponds lie in very deep, round basins, the sides of which in many places are thick with trees. We did not attempt to go down to the two last. Returning, we thought we would try a short cut across the moor to the edge of the mountain. Andrew Hagan, who had joined us, advised us not to try this, but the spirit of adventure was upon us, and so we and the children set forth. We certainly got into many pitfalls. We had numerous small ravines to cross and their almost impossible banks to scramble up, and at times had to push our way through bushes and ferns. We came across a good many mollyhawks sitting on their nests, which they seem to frequent after their young ones have flown. We saw one or two of the young; they are so pretty and are covered with a blue fluffy down. It was not easy to keep Rob and Scotty from molesting them. We clambered down the mountain fairly quickly. William most thoughtfully had told Ned to meet us with the donkey, and I was most thankful for it. It was getting on for eight by the time we got home. Graham thinks we must have been about fifteen miles. I think it was the most tiring expedition we have had, but do not regret having gone. The children enjoyed themselves immensely, and it was delightful to hear their peals of laughter; they were here, there, and everywhere.
Tuesday, January l2.—Mr. Keytel is encountering many difficulties. The fact is, the men are not pulling together, which is due to the new-comers, who have done an untold amount of mischief in every way. There are divisions and quarrels among them, and their morals are bad.
Six men who last week went to Inaccessible returned on Sunday. They had hoped to do some sealing, but could not get into the cave. I am sorry to say one of them purposely set fire to the tussock grass, which has been burning for three days. The fire can be seen from here, twenty-five miles away. The men say that thousands of birds must have been destroyed, as it is their nesting time. It is horrible to think of.
We started school again last Monday, after more than a fortnight's holiday. For some time the elder Swain girls have left off coming to school, and now William means to leave; he is eighteen, and is wanted for work. While I write I hear the cheerful strains of a concertina which he is playing.
Friday, January 15.—Soon after four this morning the settlement was awakened by terrific cries of "Sail, ho!" Some smoke was seen, and it was first thought to be that of a steamer, but there was so much it seemed to be a ship on fire. The men went off and did not get back till the evening, as they had a long distance to go. The ship was a whaler melting the blubber of a whale caught the night before. They had on deck the half of the head, inside of which men were digging with spades—which gives an idea of its size. The whale in Tristan waters is the Southern Right Whale.
Saturday, January 16.—A vessel emerged from the mist to-day. In a marvellously short time the men were off to her. She was a Norwegian one bound for Australia, and had made a quick run of fourteen days from Rio Janeiro. After the men returned in the evening they had to go off again with sheep and potatoes to the whaler, which was standing out to the east. We sat on the cliff once more, looking at the busy scene on the beach and watching with interest the boys guiding down the steep road the bullock-carts, which at times looked as if they would heave over, and indeed one did. The men will probably not be back till the small hours of the morning, which will make a working-day of nearly twenty-four hours for them, as they were up very early digging potatoes for the whaler.
Monday, January l8.—The men failed to catch the whaler on Saturday night. I suppose the captain had given them up and moved further out. They got back about 2 o'clock, and after a few hours' rest went off again to her, returning in the evening. This morning, just before starting for church, a third ship was sighted in the far distance.
We have had rather uncertain weather lately, with a good deal of wind. The last few days have been hot and misty. The flower garden has not done very well this year, partly due to the wind.