There is much we shall never know—the thoughts which passed through the minds of those old image-makers as they worked at their craft, the scenes enacted as their humbler neighbours toilsomely moved the great figures to their place, the weird ceremonies which doubtless marked their erection, not least the story of the persistence which erected and re-erected the burying-places after again and yet again they had been destroyed—such things are gone for ever. But the broad outlines and events of the story, with their approximate dates, to these there is every prospect we shall attain with reasonable certainty, and that before very many years have elapsed.

K. R.

April 1920.

CONTENTS

PART I
THE VOYAGE TO EASTER ISLAND
CHAPTER I
PAGE
THE START [3]
Why we went to Easter Island—The Building and Equipping of the Yacht—The Start from Southampton—Dartmouth—Falmouth.
CHAPTER II
THE VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA [14]
A Gale at Sea—Madeira—Canary Islands—Cape Verde Islands—Across the Atlantic.
CHAPTER III
BRAZIL [34]
Pernambuco—Bahia—Cabral Bay—Cape Frio—Rio de Janeiro—Porto Bello—A Pampero.
CHAPTER IV
ARGENTINA [52]
The River Plate—Buenos Aires, its Trade and People.
CHAPTER V
PATAGONIA [65]
Port Desire—Eastern Magellan Straits—Punta Arenas—Western Magellan Straits—Patagonian Channels.
CHAPTER VI
CHILE [99]
Refitting at Talcahuano—Trip to Santiago and across the Summit of the Andes—Valparaiso—To Juan Fernandez—Typhoid on Board—Back to Chile—Juan Fernandez again.
CHAPTER VII
JUAN FERNANDEZ [111]
The Island—Selkirk—Anson—Fate of the Dresden.
CHAPTER VIII
LIFE ON BOARD [115]
PART II
EASTER ISLAND
CHAPTER IX
ARRIVAL AT EASTER ISLAND [124]
First Impressions—The Story of the El Dorado—Mana despatched.
CHAPTER X
CONDITIONS OF LIFE ON THE ISLAND [131]
Description of the Island—Accommodation—Climate—Food—Labour.
CHAPTER XI
A NATIVE RISING [140]
A Declaration of Independence—Cattle-raiding—A Mission which failed—Bad to Worse—Arrival of a Chilean Warship.
CHAPTER XII
A GERMAN BASE [150]
A Visit from Von Spee—First news of the War—S. R. goes to Chile—The Prinz Eitel Friedrich—Return of Mana—Departure of the Expedition.
CHAPTER XIII
PREHISTORIC REMAINS
AHU OR BURIAL-PLACES [165]
Form of the Easter Island Image—Position and Number of the Ahu—Design and Construction of the Image Ahu—Reconstruction and Transformation—The Semi-pyramid Ahu—The Overthrow of the Images and Destruction of the Ahu.
CHAPTER XIV
PREHISTORIC REMAINS (continued)
STATUES AND CROWNS [175]
Rano Raraku, its Quarries and Standing Statues—The South-east Face of the Mountain—Isolated Statues—Roads—Stone Crowns of the Images.
CHAPTER XV
NATIVE CULTURE IN PRE-CHRISTIAN TIMES [200]
Sources of Information: History, Recent Remains, Living Memory—Mode of Life: Habitations, Food, Dress and Ornament—Social Life: Divisions, Wars, Marriages, Burial Customs, Social Functions.
CHAPTER XVI
NATIVE CULTURE IN PRE-CHRISTIAN TIMES (continued) [236]
Religion—Position of the Miru Clan—The Script—The Bird Cult—Wooden Carvings.
CHAPTER XVII
CAVES AND CAVE-HUNTING [272]
Residential Caves—Caves as Hiding-Places for Treasure—Burial Caves.
CHAPTER XVIII
LEGENDS [277]
First Arrival on the Island—The Long Ears exterminated by the Short Ears—The Struggle between Kotuu and Hotu Iti.
CHAPTER XIX
THE PRESENT POSITION OF THE PROBLEM [290]
PART III
THE HOMEWARD VOYAGE
EASTER ISLAND TO SAN FRANCISCO
CHAPTER XX
PITCAIRN ISLAND [305]
A Kind Welcome—Religion—Administration—Economic Problems—Physique—Native Remains—A Glimpse of Rapa.
CHAPTER XXI
TAHITI, HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, SAN FRANCISCO [316]
Tahiti—Voyage to Hawaiian Islands—Oahu, with its capital Honolulu—Visit to Island of Hawaii—San Francisco—The Author returns to England.
PART IV
THE HOMEWARD VOYAGE—Continued
SAN FRANCISCO TO SOUTHAMPTON
By S. R.
CHAPTER XXII
SAN FRANCISCO TO PANAMA [335]
Catching Turtle—The Island of Socorro and what we found there—The tale of a Russian Finn—Quibo Island—Suffering of the Natives from Elephantiasis—A Haul with the Seine.
CHAPTER XXIII
PANAMA TO JAMAICA [359]
Navigation of the Gulf of Panama—Balboa and the City of Panama—Through the Canal—Cristobal—An Incapable Pilot—The Education of a Cook—A Waterspout—A Further Exciting Experience.
CHAPTER XXIV
JAMAICA TO SOUTHAMPTON [373]
Jamaica, and the Bahamas—Bermudas—Azores—Preparing for Submarines—Southampton once more.
EPILOGUE [389]
ITINERARY OF THE EXPEDITION [392]
INDEX [395]

ILLUSTRATIONS

AN EASTER ISLAND IMAGE (Photogravure) [Frontispiece]
PAGE
PORTRAIT OF AUTHOR (Photogravure) [x]
Part I
FIG. PAGE
1. MANA [3]
1A. MANA, SECTION OF DECKHOUSE AND SALOON [6]
2. PORTO SANTO [18]
3. LAS PALMAS, GRAND CANARY [22]
4. PORTO GRANDE, ST. VINCENT, CAPE VERDE ISLANDS [27]
5. A GROUP ON DECK [32]
6. BAHIA DE TODOS OS SANTOS [38]
7. THE NATIVE CART, ACO COVE, PORTO BELLO [49]
8. S. AND AN OSTRICH [71]
9. PUNTA ARENAS [74]
10. RIVER SCENE, ST. NICHOLAS BAY [79]
11. CAPE FROWARD, MAGELLAN STRAITS [80]
12. THE GLACIER GORGE, PORT CHURRUCA [81]
13. MAP OF MANA INLET [85]
14. CANOE CORDUROY PORTAGE [86]
15. PATAGONIAN WATERWAYS [87]
16. ENCAMPMENT OF PATAGONIAN INDIANS [90]
17. INDIANS OF BRASSEY PASS [91]
18. CANOE IN INDIAN REACH [91]
19. HALE COVE [96]
20. JUAN FERNANDEZ: AN IMPRESSION [111]
21. CUMBERLAND BAY, JUAN FERNANDEZ [112]
22. SELKIRK’S CAVE, JUAN FERNANDEZ [113]
Part II
23. EASTER ISLAND FROM THE SOUTH (PANORAMIC VIEW) [122]
24. EASTER ISLAND FROM RANO KAO (PANORAMIC VIEW) [123]
25. MANAGER’S HOUSE, MATAVERI [128]
26. A GROUP OF EASTER ISLANDERS [140]
27. HANGA ROA VILLAGE [141]
28. BAILEY, THE COOK, ON GUARD [144]
29. EASTER ISLAND WOMEN [144]
30. ANGATA, THE PROPHETESS [145]
31. STATUE AT THE BRITISH MUSEUM [165]
32. AKAHANGA COVE AND NEIGHBOURING AHU (PANORAMIC VIEW) [166]
33. AHU TONGARIKI, SEAWARD SIDE (PANORAMIC VIEW) [166A]
34. AHU TONGARIKI, LANDWARD SIDE (PANORAMIC VIEW) [166B]
35. AHU VINAPU (PANORAMIC VIEW) [167]
36. DIAGRAM OF IMAGE AHU [169]
37. AHU TEPEU [170]
38. METHOD OF EXPOSING THE DEAD [171]
39. A SEMI-PYRAMID AHU [172]
40. DIAGRAM OF SEMI-PYRAMID AHU [172]
41. AHU MAHATUA, SEAWARD SIDE [173]
42. AHU MAITAKI-TE-MOA, SEAWARD SIDE [174]
43. AHU RUNGA-VAE [174A]
44. PLAN OF RANO RARAKU [174C]
45. RANO RARAKU FROM THE SEA [174D]
46. „ „ FROM THE SOUTH-WEST .... [174E]
47. „ „ INTERIOR OF CRATER (line engraving) [175]
48. DIAGRAM OF RANO RARAKU [177]
49. STATUE IN QUARRY, PARTIALLY SCULPTURED [178]
50. STATUE IN QUARRY ATTACHED BY KEEL [179]
51. „ „ „ READY TO BE LAUNCHED [179]
52. STONE TOOL [180]
53. „ „ [180]
54. HEAD OF A STATUE AT MOUTH OF QUARRY [180]
55. LARGEST IMAGE IN QUARRY [181]
56. STATUE CARVED ON EDGE OF PRECIPICE [182]
57. STANDING STATUES [183]
58. STATUE SHOWING LOBE OF EAR AS A ROPE [184]
59. „ „ „ „ „ CONTAINING A DISC [184]
60. EXTERIOR OF RANO RARAKU (DIAGRAMMATIC SKETCH) [184B]
60A. „ „ „ „ (KEY TO ABOVE) [184A]
61. DIGGING OUT A STATUE [185]
62. EXCAVATED IMAGE, PEG-SHAPED BASE [186]
63. „ „ SHOWING SCAMPED WORK [186]
64. BACK OF AN EXCAVATED STATUE [187]
65. BACK OF STATUE AT ANAKENA [187]
66. STATUE WITH UNMODELLED BACK [188]
67. „ „ MODELLED BACK [188]
68. „ „ BACK IN PROCESS OF BEING MODELLED [189]
69. STATUE WEDGED BY BOULDERS [189]
70. TWO IMAGES ERECTED IN QUARRY (FRONT VIEW) [190]
71. „ „ „ „ „ (BACK VIEW) [191]
72. STATUE SHOWING FORM OF HANDS [192]
73. PROSTRATE STATUES, SOUTH-EAST SIDE, RANO RARAKU [193]
74. MAP OF ANCIENT ROADS [194]
75. STATUE ON SOUTH ROAD (UNBROKEN) [195]
76. „ „ „ „ (BROKEN) [195]
77. DIAGRAM OF CEREMONIAL AVENUE, HANGA PAUKURA [196]
78. AHU PARO [197]
79. CRATER FROM WHICH HATS OF IMAGES WERE HEWN [198]
80. AN UNFINISHED HAT [199]
81. A FINISHED HAT [199]
82. MONUMENTS IN EASTER ISLAND—CAPTAIN COOK [204]
83. PORTRAITS OF EASTER ISLANDERS [212]
84. CANOE-SHAPED HOUSES, STONE FOUNDATIONS [215]
84A. „ „ „ ENTRANCE AND PAVED AREA [215]
85. „ „ „ DIAGRAM [217]
86. HOUSE FOR CHICKENS [218]
87. TOWER USED BY FISHERMEN [218]
88. DESIGN USED IN TATTOOING [219]
89. PORTRAIT OF MAHANGA OF PAUMOTU [220]
90. AN OLD WOMAN, WITH DILATED EAR-LOBE [220]
91. MAP OF EASTER ISLAND (POLITICAL) [222]
92. OBSIDIAN SPEAR-HEADS [224]
93. AHU, HANGA MAIHIKO, WITH PAVED APPROACH [229]
94. DIAGRAM OF AHU POE-POE (CANOE-SHAPE) [230]
95. AN AHU POE-POE (WEDGE SHAPE) [232]
96. MIRU SKULL, WITH INCISED DESIGN [240]
97. ANAKENA COVE [241]
98. INCISED TABLET [244]
99. tomenika’s script [252]
100. CRATER LAKE, RANO KAO (PANORAMIC VIEW) [254]
101. ANA KAI-TANGATA (CANNIBAL CAVE) [254A]
102. PAINTINGS ON ROOF OF ANA KAI-TANGATA [254B]
103. ORONGO, END HOUSES AND CARVED ROCKS [255]
104. CENTRAL PORTION OF ORONGO VILLAGE [256]
105. PAINTED SLABS FROM HOUSES AT ORONGO [257]
106. BACK OF STATUE FROM ORONGO, AT BRITISH MUSEUM [258]
107. CARVED DOOR-POST, ORONGO [259]
108. RANO KAO FROM MOTU NUI [260]
109. MOTU NUI AND MOTU ITI [261]
110. ROCK AT ORONGO, WITH FIGURES OF BIRD-MEN [262]
111. BOUNDARY STATUE FROM MOTU NUI [263]
112. STONE, WITH FIGURE OF BIRD-MAN HOLDING EGG [263]
113. POROTU [266]
114. BIRD-CHILD IN CEREMONIAL DRESS [267]
115. OBJECTS CARVED IN WOOD, “REI-MIRO” [268]
116. „ „ „ „ “RAPA AND UA” [268]
117. „ „ „ „ “MOKO-MIRO” [268]
118. „ „ „ „ “AO” [268]
119. WOODEN IMAGES (FRONT) [269]
120. „ „ (BACK) [270]
121. BIRD DESIGN ON WOODEN IMAGE [271]
122. AHU OROI, FORMED OF OUTCROP OF ROCK [277]
123. EASTERN HEADLAND AND ISLAND OF MAROTIRI [284]
124. ANA HAVEA [285]
125. BIRD AND HUMAN FIGURES IN THE SOLOMON ISLANDS AND EASTER ISLAND [297]
Part III
126. PITCAIRN ISLAND FROM THE SEA [306]
127. „ „ CHURCH AND RESIDENCE OF MISSIONARIES [306]
128. „ „ BOUNTY BAY [307]
129. RAPA [315]
130. A TAHITIAN PICTURE POST-CARD [319]
131. MARAE MAHAIATEA, TAHITI [320]
132. CHARLES AND EDWIN YOUNG [321]
133. HEIAU PUUKOHOLA, HAWAII [327]
134. SAN FRANCISCO [331]
MAPS AND PLANS
MAGELLAN STRAITS AND PATAGONIAN CHANNELS [65]
MANA INLET (FIG. 13) [85]
EASTER ISLAND (PHYSICAL) [120A]
PLAN OF RANO RARAKU (FIG. 44) [174C]
EASTER ISLAND, ANCIENT ROADS (FIG. 74) [194]
EASTER ISLAND (POLITICAL) (FIG. 91) [222]
THE PACIFIC OCEAN [293]
PANAMA [359]
JAMAICA; CUBA AND BAHAMA ISLANDS [372]
BERMUDA ISLANDS [378]

PART I
THE VOYAGE TO EASTER ISLAND

FIG. 1.
MANA.
Charrua Bay, Patagonian Channels.