They have many ceremonies and rites. Some two hundred spirits are worshipped. These are represented by masked men, dolls and placs.

The desire for rain has an important part in many ceremonies. This is true of the famous Hopi Snake Dance. This attracted much attention last year because attended by Mr. Roosevelt. Some fifty machines, mostly Fords, made the desert trip. The Hopis believe a great smoke in the earth controls the rain. A great many rattle and bull snakes are gathered and cared for in the underground "kivas" or caves. At sunset on the ninth day of the ceremony the snake men come from the kivas. They dance with the snake in the mouth until all have been thus treated. A priest frees them in the rocks and prays that the parent snake may give the Hopis rain.

Our government maintains a school for children of each mesa and one more advanced at government headquarters. Those desiring to go further are sent to Indian schools. Some of these Hopis are known as unfriendlies—hostile to the government. Until last year soldiers had to be sent to get their children whom the parents refused to send.

Besides the missionaries who are doing much the government has its agent, farmer, windmill man, doctors, teachers and matrons.

On my return to the railroad we were delayed because of heavy rains. What was a small stream in August was in September a river three-fourths of a mile wide when we first saw it. In the bed of this stream our wagon was stuck. The chief of the Navajo Tribe helped us take it to pieces and so get it out of the mud in the wash.

Imagine if you can what it would mean to hear a train whistle after six weeks' absence from civilization. As we topped the rise on the afternoon of the fourth day the sight of that brought me to my feet. How I gazed at it! My Indian driver said "Miss——pashalayi" ("Miss——you are very happy.")

Early the next morning three of us said good bye. My Indian companion with his hat in hand and my father and I said more in those parting handshakes than words could ever tell. A few minutes later we were borne westward by train and he to the north in his wagon.

Section of a Hopi Village, Second Mesa, Shipaulovi.
(Handwritten notation: Cut Furnished by Herbert Cox)