FIG. 31. INSERTING THE SPLINE.
FIG. 32. SKETCH OF A PORTION OF A SPLINE.
Step 4. [Fig. 31] shows the method of inserting the spline. Splines may be had either of wood or reed, are curved on the upper edge and wedge shape in cross-section. They are standard in width and thickness and will fit a groove of the size indicated in Step 1. [Fig. 32] is a freehand sketch of a spline, showing particularly its shape in cross-section. Wood splines, preferably of hickory, may be purchased in 5 ft. lengths, and reed splines in lengths of 8 or 10 ft. Both hickory and reed are recommended because of their pliability and ease in handling. Steam or soak them in hot water until thoroly pliable; then insert in the groove as illustrated. Note that the joint is made at the rear of the seat. The mallet used is of rawhide and will not mar the spline. A wooden mallet of small size is a satisfactory tool. Cut off the extra length of spline with the chisel, force the spline down nearly flush with the frame with mallet and wedge, sponge off the excess glue from the surface, and allow the webbing to dry.
Step 5. The finished seat is shown in [Fig. 33]. As the cane webbing dries it becomes taut, and irregularities of the surface, if not too pronounced, will disappear entirely. Therefore, the worker need not consider them primarily. Light sanding of the cane when thoroly dry will eliminate the small hairlike projections on the surface. Singeing the surface with a blow torch or gas flame will do the work more effectively, but great care must be exercised to avoid burning the webbing itself. The singeing must be done rapidly and the flame not be permitted to remain at one spot more than an instant. Dampen the surface to minimize the danger of burning.
FIG. 33. THE FINISHED SEAT.